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Old-un



Member Since: 12 Feb 2022
Location: Manchester
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Causeway Grey

Had my 2011 l322 for two years now and serviced it well. 82,000 miles.
Never had a 'dpf full warning' in all that time.
Currently on touring caravan holiday in North Wales and went on a little tour round through several 20 MPH areas without the 'van, guess what, dpf full warning came up !
Soon shifted it by doing the regen thing for 15 minutes and am now trying to avoid the 20mph areas but they are everywhere here.
Any point in using paddle shift here to increase revs through these slow areas in order to keep dpf cleaner ? RR owner

Post #692465 12th May 2024 4:18pm
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 2795

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

Same with me - never had a DPF warning in over 2 1/2 years and just past 170k miles 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #692470 12th May 2024 5:30pm
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Range Rover L322



Member Since: 03 Sep 2019
Location: South West
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 

Old-un wrote:
Had my 2011 l322 for two years now and serviced it well. 82,000 miles.
Never had a 'dpf full warning' in all that time.
Currently on touring caravan holiday in North Wales and went on a little tour round through several 20 MPH areas without the 'van, guess what, dpf full warning came up !
Soon shifted it by doing the regen thing for 15 minutes and am now trying to avoid the 20mph areas but they are everywhere here.
Any point in using paddle shift here to increase revs through these slow areas in order to keep dpf cleaner ?


The paddle shift / Sport mode / keeping revs increased will not help keep your DPF cleaner. The only remedy is a long run.
When you are over 19.7grams it will try and regen more frequently until it gets rid of some soot.

There are some other perameters you need to meet:
1) Driving over 37mph.
2) Tank more than a quarter full.



. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 AB low mileage - a peach
1986 V8 Defender 90 County ex-Swiss Army - Red everything....

My preferred Independent: Roy Hardy. R & B AUTOS LTD, 20 Brook Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 2BH (Ex LR Chief Technician)


Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 12th May 2024 10:00pm. Edited 4 times in total

Post #692473 12th May 2024 6:03pm
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Old-un



Member Since: 12 Feb 2022
Location: Manchester
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Causeway Grey

Sorry, I thought it was the opposite like driving at 20 mph made the filter become more blocked rather than burning more off ? RR owner

Post #692477 12th May 2024 6:41pm
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Range Rover L322



Member Since: 03 Sep 2019
Location: South West
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 

uplandvilla wrote:
Hi Matt,

Thank you very much for your prompt and thorough reply. That's all incredibly helpful and reassuring. You've likely saved me -- and many others -- from a whole lot of excessive worrying!

I'll probably continue to monitor for awhile, just to better understand how it functions. And because we can. I know the IID Tool is the one to have and will likely invest in one at some point. For now (and considering the price), Car Scanner Pro has been a good start.

Many thanks again, and hopefully all will behave as it should and I won't need to bother you again.

Kind regards... and happy motoring!


No probs.

Best things to monitor are Demanded regens and Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) (Bank 1 - Sensor 2).
You'll know you are regenning when that EGT sensor is between 600º-650º.

.... however ... it is a lot easier to just wait for the car to tell you when it needs a run...



. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 AB low mileage - a peach
1986 V8 Defender 90 County ex-Swiss Army - Red everything....

My preferred Independent: Roy Hardy. R & B AUTOS LTD, 20 Brook Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 2BH (Ex LR Chief Technician)

Post #692486 12th May 2024 9:56pm
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uplandvilla



Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

Thank you very much gentleman.

Despite the worry and paranoia subsiding due to your extremely helpful and reassuring messages, I hate to say I'm now back with what appears to be an actual issue.

The dreaded Amber light popped up again yesterday. Of course on a day that I really couldn't afford to have vehicle issues. Sad The boot was loaded to the brim with perishable items, so I quickly drove to my destination (about 2 miles), turned the vehicle off, unloaded and attempted to get out of town and onto an A Road where I know I can get the regen to work. I didn't really have time to lose yesterday but also knew that I'd be ****ed if I was without a vehicle to get done what needed to get done.

As I was heading out of town, the soot level continued to rise and quickly. Then just at the turnoff where I can actually get up to 50 it clicked up to 27.06g and then 27.45g. OUCH!!!

Click image to enlarge


With my heart in my hand and sweat on my brow, I desperately hoped it would start dropping as I got up to speed. It sat at 27.45g for a few minutes / miles at which point I got to a roundabout. Just as I made it to the other side, I felt the power go. And sure enough, looked down at the dash. The dreaded RED DPF FULL light was on.



Fortunately it was only about a 7 minute drive from there to my local and highly trusted LR Specialist. As I pulled in and told them I had the DPF Full light they said "Oh no." His first instinct was that there must be an air leak as he said you should be able to drive at least 20 miles on an Amber. And it shouldn't be rising as quickly as it is.

They scanned it for codes, but unfortunately none came up. They then took it out for a Forced Regen, which didn't work.

I then remembered that there were a couple of DPF related codes that came up about 10 days ago. This was after a fairly long run in which it performed a regen down from 20.78 to 10.59. But then despite continued driving at 50mph, it sort of got stuck there and never ticked over as a "successful regen" which is what made me think to scan the codes.


Click image to enlarge


The first one is the one I had asked about previously. I hadn't considered at the time that there may be an issue with the MAP Sensor. But the P0105-16 fault seems to point to that.




Unfortunately, they won't be able to investigate until at best the end of next week, as they're booked up until the week of 3 June. Which means I'm without wheels... and it never comes at a good time does it? Well it's just about the worse time as we're doing an event for my wife's business and need to be shuffling a lot of materials and product around.

And the irony is, it's literally 28 days to the day that we purchased the vehicle.

I'm not sure whether to laugh, cry or bang my fists in rage. Perhaps a little of all the above?

It's also worth noting that this occurred after our first journey up to London in which we had the absolutely optimal drive for the DPF and was able to watch/record as it dropped from 20.7g all the way down to 1.57g. So the DPF is definitely doing what it needs to be doing.

The issue is that on the drive back from London (roughly 70 miles) it then continued to climb up and by the time I pulled into our drive, it was up above 20g and literally... I mean literally as I pulled into the drive, it triggered a regen. Aargh...

So the issue appears to be that the soot level (which I know isn't a real level but one calculated based on the differential pressure) is rising too quickly. It's not that the DPF itself is failing to regen. It's just having to do it far more often that is probably necessary.

Anyway, just thought I'd share in case anyone has any ideas or experience to share.

Many thanks again Current:
2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Previous:
2004 4.4 V8 Vogue

Post #692887 18th May 2024 10:34am
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SpitfireS



Member Since: 10 Jun 2019
Location: Mainz
Posts: 86

Germany 2012 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

How about testing the differential pressure sensor itself?
Checking the tubing, connections, all that kinda stuff?

No black soot on the intake elbow at all?
(sorry if you mentioned that as 'checked and not there' before) 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

Post #692891 18th May 2024 11:38am
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Range Rover L322



Member Since: 03 Sep 2019
Location: South West
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 

Firstly don't worry, this is not as bad as it seems.

1) High pressure smoke test. Your indy is spot on - a leak is the most likely issue if accumulating soot that quickly.
2) MAP + MAF sensors check + clean. This is a 5 min job. Various threads on this.
3) DPF (differential) sensor . Possibly pop a new one in - see page 31 of this thread as there is some ambiguity on parts numbers.


Let us know how you get on 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 AB low mileage - a peach
1986 V8 Defender 90 County ex-Swiss Army - Red everything....

My preferred Independent: Roy Hardy. R & B AUTOS LTD, 20 Brook Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 2BH (Ex LR Chief Technician)

Post #693008 20th May 2024 1:05am
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 2795

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

Replace the MAP sensor or check the wiring as the fault is code clearly describing an electrical fault and not a blocked sensor. Without a working MAP sensor the fueling will be wrong and likley causing exessive soot buildup. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #693011 20th May 2024 7:51am
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uplandvilla



Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

I'm really hoping it's as simple as a MAP sensor. Unfortunately our indy is booked up until week of 3 June. They said the earliest they could potentially look into it would be end of this week, fingers crossed.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
UPDATE : Well as soon as I posted, I was very pleasantly surprised to get a text message from our Indy. It seems they managed to squeeze us in earlier than expected!

They said:
MAP sensor connector has been snapped and sensor is blocked with soot
I have cleaned out and car started to do a regen but stopped after about half an hour.
We are going to have to look at this further, once done we will let you know what we find.



I spoke with another fellow who has quite a bit of L322 experience and he suggested that in addition to the above (MAP + MAF or DPF differential sensors) it could also be one of the following, or as GGDR said in the OP possibly a combination of things:

- "Sticky or gunked up" EGR (can't recall the exact description he used)... so that the valve isn't closing completely and allowing more soot to build up

- Ash buildup in the DPF
Given the vehicle has done 113k miles, I suppose this is a real possibility. And would lead back to GGDR's OP and the potential need for Red Option 3: Removal, Clean, Refit and Reset ECU

This fellow also recommended reaching out to Range Rover World to inquire about their DPF Removal service.
https://rangeroverworld.co.uk/shop/ols/pro...al-service

This seems to be a hotly debated topic. He's of the opinion that there is much to gain and little risk if done properly. I've contacted them and will happily share what they tell me if others are interested.

At £1200, this would obviously be a last resort. Let's hope as you said, it is just a sensor and a 5 min job. Wish I were handy with a spanner and knew what to look for myself. Fortunately we've got an excellent LR specialist we know and trust.

Will post an update once we know any more and in case it can be useful for others.

Cheers and thanks again! Current:
2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Previous:
2004 4.4 V8 Vogue

Post #693021 20th May 2024 10:37am
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 2795

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

The regen process shouldn't take that long - ask the garage what the soot level reading was after it had stopped?
The egr valve position is monitored by the ECU so if it was sticking it would throw a fault.
DPF shouldn't be ash blocked at that mileage. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #693023 20th May 2024 11:01am
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RRLG16



Member Since: 21 May 2024
Location: England
Posts: 3

I’ve had my 2016 reg sport for 3 months. It had a new engine under 2 years ago from the JLR dealership so I thought it was a good car to buy. Ha. The exhaust filter light has come on several times right after long journeys. After getting home from a 400 mile trip to the Lake District for example. The light would come on & then disappear after a few minutes. The other day it came on & immediately went to red visit dealer. I’ve taken the car to my local garage & they said they were unable to clear it. They called last night & said the part alone is £1600. This garage is not an independent Land Rover garage. I’ve read this very helpful thread (I don’t have a clue about cars) & I’m now wondering whether I should take it for a second opinion at the Indy garage. Annoyingly I did have it booked in at the Indy next Tuesday as I also have the airbag warning light coming on intermittently. I took it to the other garage as I could get it in on the same day. £1600 feels a little sickening.

Post #693047 21st May 2024 6:55am
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uplandvilla



Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

Quote:
I’ve had my 2016 reg sport for 3 months. It had a new engine under 2 years ago from the JLR dealership so I thought it was a good car to buy. Ha. The exhaust filter light has come on several times right after long journeys. After getting home from a 400 mile trip to the Lake District for example. The light would come on & then disappear after a few minutes. The other day it came on & immediately went to red visit dealer. I’ve taken the car to my local garage & they said they were unable to clear it. They called last night & said the part alone is £1600. This garage is not an independent Land Rover garage. I’ve read this very helpful thread (I don’t have a clue about cars) & I’m now wondering whether I should take it for a second opinion at the Indy garage. Annoyingly I did have it booked in at the Indy next Tuesday as I also have the airbag warning light coming on intermittently. I took it to the other garage as I could get it in on the same day. £1600 feels a little sickening.


RRLG16 - sorry to hear about your experience. Like you, I nearly bought a RR with a new engine (and new turbos) that had been fitted in the past year, thinking that made it a good car to buy. I actually "won" it on auction and only took the plunge because it ended up selling for a very good price, what I considered a "good deal" on a car with a new engine. It's a bit of a long story but luckily, the car went into limp mode with an EML light the day before I was going to collect it which allowed me to arrange an inspection with my indy LR garage. They came back and basically said "Don't buy this vehicle." It had all sorts of problems, including a ticking sound with the newly installed engine. And would have required MAJOR MAJOR work done to it. So fortunately I was able to dodge that bullet.

My LR specialist also later told me that in the industry it's quite well known "to stay away from cars that have had a new engine." I was a bit puzzled when he first told me that, but then came to understand that requiring a new engine could potentially be symptomatic of it having been poorly maintained.

It doesn't mean your vehicle has been. And I feel for you because I know that sickening feeling. However I wouldn't despair. If all yours needs is £1600 worth of work doing to it, I'd personally consider yourself not too bad off. In buying a used car I've always considered that they will require a fair amount of work. Obviously, you hope that they won't need that work in the first few months. But the reality is, someone is selling it for a reason. And it's important to go into a purchase with your eyes wide open.

The point I'd like to make however is that I would HIGHLY recommend you wait and take it to your LR Indy. These are highly specialised vehicles and I've made the mistake in the past of having them serviced at non LR specialist garages. The fact is most garages don't know what they're looking at nor do they have the necessary tools to repair them. It's cost me well over £1600 in mistakenly trusting a non LR garage on my old RR. Waiting a week may be an inconvenience for you but it could also end up saving you a whole lot of money and misery. So long as your LR indy is a good one.

Whereabouts are you located?

You say you don't know much about cars but if you've found your way to the forums that's a good start. Maybe you should consider buying an OBD reader and downloading Car Scanner Pro. You can get a "Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0 (BLE)" on Amazon for about £22. And the free version of Car Scanner Pro should let you at least read your engine fault codes.

Just read them, don't clear them for now. And post your results. This community is an invaluable resource and you may just find that it's a simple fix.

Happy to chat more if you like. And I wish you all the best.

Best of luck. Current:
2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Previous:
2004 4.4 V8 Vogue

Post #693092 21st May 2024 10:24pm
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uplandvilla



Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

JayGee wrote:
The regen process shouldn't take that long - ask the garage what the soot level reading was after it had stopped?
The egr valve position is monitored by the ECU so if it was sticking it would throw a fault.
DPF shouldn't be ash blocked at that mileage.


Thanks JayGee. That makes a lot of sense about the EGR valve. And if the DPF were blocked with ash presumably I wouldn't see soot levels as low as 1.57g after a regen? Current:
2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Previous:
2004 4.4 V8 Vogue

Post #693093 21st May 2024 11:16pm
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uplandvilla



Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 13

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

UPDATE today from my LR indy and happy to report I now have the car back!

This is what they said:

Quote:
I have at last got the car to clean the DPF and clear the warnings.
This is the best I can do at present as clearly the vehicle has had this issue before and someone has "played" with it.

I can not tell if the MAP sensor was making a good connection being only held on with tape. I have now fitted it with a cable tie so the connector is pulled on and held firm.

It has taken 4 road tests to get the DPF to regen so I suspect it was on the point of being too full to clean by a forced clean so this was lucky.

The car now needs to go on a drive of 40 - 50 miles to ensure the DPF is and will work as it should.
If any faults reoccur then they MUST not be cleared.


The full work report is below:


And photo of the MAP sensor.

Click image to enlarge


I asked what level they were able to get the soot reading down to and they said about 13g.

They instructed me to go for a long drive and NOT to plug in my OBD scanner, as they said sometimes the scanners can block the regen from happening. I've not seen that in my experience, but didn't want to risk it. So I went out and did roughly 75 miles in total with 40-50 of those at roughly 50mph, primarily up and down a particular stretch of dual carriageway. Despite my dire curiosity to monitor what would happen, I left the OBD scanner unplugged as instructed, so unfortunately can’t say exactly what happened.

After that bit of drive my fuel level was at about 38% so I decided to stop for petrol. At which point I plugged in the device to see if it had worked. The soot level reading was at 19.22g. Which in my mind means it hadn't done what they were hoping it would do? It clearly climbed from 13g. But whether or not it dropped first is impossible to know.

I had been a bit concerned when we set off as it was rush hour and hit a bit of traffic before I could really get going. Again, impossible to say if that impacted things as I wasn’t able to monitor.

Then, knowing at 19.22 it would soon trigger another regen, I decided to take off again along the same route. This time I monitored it. And sure enough at 19.61g the regen kicked in and it started dropping quite quickly. It went down all the way to 5.1 before it started to climb again. All in all, I believe it took about 25 miles for it to regen to that level. My indy also said that getting down to 6g is all it needs. So I considered that a success.

So at that point I decided I could safely drive home. The real question however was if it would start to quickly rise again. Because I know it's able to regen ok. My issue was that it kept rising too quickly thereafter. By the time I got home, which was an additional 20 miles or so, it had risen to 8.24g. Which is where it is now. I can't say I've ever returned home with a level so low. So that's reassuring.

And only time will tell now if that has completely resolved the issue. Fingers crossed!

I guess I need to now look back through the posts to better understand how quickly soot levels are expected to rise. But previously, I was getting into the 20-23 danger zone every 2-3 days and would have to bolt out and spend an hour or more driving... just to calm my nerves.

In any case, I reported this back to my indy and he said:
Quote:
If it was me I would put the code reader in the kitchen drawer and enjoy the car - 😀


Hopefully now I can do exactly what he and some of you have been saying, which is to just relax and drive! Rolling with laughter

Thanks again Current:
2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Previous:
2004 4.4 V8 Vogue


Last edited by uplandvilla on 22nd May 2024 8:03pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #693094 21st May 2024 11:19pm
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