Got to run some cabling from back to front believe the best route to be under the D post lower, under the rear retainer, B point lower, front retainer, A post lower, footwell closing panel to centre console.

See image

Not strictly correct so don;t tell anyone else on this forum but...


I used a nice big flat screw driver. Tuck it under the front edge carpet side and gently lever it upwards. the first clip should pop up and then work your way back. Takes seconds to do.. Ashley
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2004 TD6 Vogue - Black with Sand
2010 KUGA 2.0 AWD
2003 CLK 320 Cab

In the past I've used a common or garden knife from the cuttlery drawer!
I used one that was a bit thicker and sturdy than those you'd get in Ikea etc, and it did a great job and doesn't tend to leave any marks on the panel being removed.
That being said, I bought a set of panel removel tools from Machine Mart for about a fiver!  2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black

I used a slim wooden salad fork handle, the type of rubbish you get for pennies from ikea, slim and doesnt damage trim - used it to fit power cable for a jammer (aka electric gate opener of course)

Well I went at it today with a decorators palette knife, the type you would use to apply filler or scrape wallpaper off with. Worked a treat, and the tread plates pop off quite easily. The A post lower finisher more or less fell off after that, with one of the clips already broken.

As for my cable run, I had to remove the B post upper and lower covers and the finisher (the covers come off together, and you have to bend then outwards in the middle to split them apart and release the top fixings), the rear tread plate, the lower D post finisher, then ran the cable from the audio / tv gubbins corner, up over the wheel arch, down under the rear tread plate and tucked under the carpet, up past the B post but under the B post lower finisher, back under the carpet and the front tread plate, then into the cavity revealed by the A post lower finisher, dropped the footwell closer and ran the cable across the top of that.

My target is the coin tray in front of the gear lever, where I am fitting two push switches. This seems to be the only place where a) there is enough room below for the rear of the switches, b) a fairly straight forward cable run to it, c) accessible by both driver and passenger, d) least destructive - the two holes I will make can always be covered over with a piece of black plastic if returning car to normal.

Note: Rave says to disable the SRS if removing the B post, I presume this is only if you will be tackling the pre-tensioners on the seat belts. 

Have "RSW All Comms" in Hampshire - happy to help

Current Combustion Engine Transports:
Range Rover 2002 TD6 HSE Alveston Red, Sand Leather
Audi 2004 Cabriolet Sport 3.0 (Amulet Red)
Mazda Eunos 1990 (Brilliant Red)
MG Midget Mk 1 1962 (undergoing restoration) (to be Nightfire Red)

If you can get your fingertips underneath, brute force works! Just pull it straight up. The tricky bit is getting the pins aligned Witt the holes when putting it back. The pins slide in a track on the underside of the tread plate, but there are little semi-circular notches in the track indicating where the pins should be. I use a little ball of blu-tak to stop each pin moving when I turn it the right way up.