Home > Maintenance & Modifications > TDV8 FFRR Oil Change - How to
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andrewb



Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2008 Range Rover TDV8 Vogue Auto Tonga Green
TDV8 FFRR Oil Change - How to

Wanted to do an interim oil and filter change myself before the next service - thought my write up might be of some use as I couldn't find via search.

Tools & stuff:
- 10 litres of Castrol "A1" 5W30 or similar
- LR Oil filter and 2 new sump plugs
- Socket set and a 32mm (big) socket for the oil filter cover
- BIG sump oil catcher (9.5 litres min.) - but it must have a large catchment area - see below!
- lashings of rags and old newspaper
- rubber gloves

Clearly this is only an account of my experience and you must follow your own particular safety and vehicle specs for the right procedure.

1. Take the car out for a spin to warm up to operating temperature.

2. Raise car to highest level, put in park, handbrake on and turn off engine (key out)

3. Spread LOADS of newspaper on the floor under the engine and have rags to hand

4. Remove the engine cover (it just pops out of its 4xsecuring lugs - pictured - tug up at the front then at the back, then slide out cover)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


5. Remove underside engine cover - 6 bolts - 3 front, 3 rear
Bolt areas circled... the front end of the cover (foreground) will tilt downwards and hinge at the back - just wiggle it out.
Click image to enlarge


6. Unscrew oil filter cover until loose - let it drain for a few minutes. Then lift it up a bit (you'll hear more gurgles) leave it drain a little more. Then take cover and filter out (LOTS of rags and kitchen roll to hand - the filter is full of oil.) clean off any spills and clean up the filter.

Click image to enlarge




- Insert new filter - watch where the protruding 'bit' locates.
- Replace O-ring on filter cover (smearing with a little new oil)
- Screw filter cover back on carefully and tighten to 35Nm

7. Draining oil.
The issue here is that the sump drain holes are positioned in such a way that the oil flow is interrupted by the chassis - thus creating huge opportunity for oil to spurt out in all directions. Great design LR!
So the risk of mess and oil up your arms is high. be careful and think ahead. Think about where the oil willl flow.
Move to under the car. Newspaper in place and rags to hand.
Locate both sump plugs (labelled 1 and 2 in the diagram):
Click image to enlarge

Direction of plug and flow in red arrows.
Imagine looking down onto the car from above... Plug 1 is at the front, right hand side of the sump, nearest the ground - the drain hole points RIGHT
Plug 2 (clearer in the picture) is rearward of plug 1 - at least pointing to the ground, BUT you'll see the chassis / subframe directly in its flow path! great. For this reason i drained plug 1 until no drips. Then did plug 2 (not much oil came from plug 2, so easier to deal with).

Draining....
- Undo sump plug 1 a little until finger tight.
- Position your large oil catcher underneath.
- Undo the plug bit by bit, holding it in until the last point then pull it out (keeping it in your hand if poss)
At this point, oil will spurt enthusiastically from the drain hole. Reposition catcher, newspaper, rags to minimise spill.
Let it drain until empty.
Clean the area around the drain hole and insert & tighten new plug (ideally to 23Nm)
Mop up spills and other mess.

Do the same for plug 2 - mercifully (particularly with the fiddly access of p2), less oil will come out.

Clean up, double-check you've replaced the plugs and set fresh paper underneath.

Messy bit done.

Then fill up with new oil. Access to the filler spout is awkward (especially with a full can). - So use a funnel or similar. I used a 1L oil can with the bottom chopped out. (pic).
Click image to enlarge


Put about 8 litres in then allow it to settle (check dipstick). Then top up carefully so its at the top of the dipstick indicator.

Start engine - watch until the oil light extinguishes then raise revs to about 1500rpm for 20secs or so to let things soak in.

Stop engine and re-check dipstick, you'll probably have to top up another 500ml to 1L to get to mid point.

Test drive and re-check level.



Hope this helps.

If anyone has a proven solution for the spillage problem I'd love to know!

Happy cleanup!

Post #20746 21st Jun 2010 2:51pm
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Turbo Tony



Member Since: 06 Apr 2010
Location: London
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 

That's a great write-up, many thanks.


Bow down Researching my first Range Rover purchase

Post #20793 21st Jun 2010 8:36pm
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RRUK



Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 3294

United Kingdom 2008 Range Rover TDV8 Vogue SE Auto Stornoway Grey

Terrific write up, almost as good as my TD6 one I did last year... Whistle (kidding!)

I shall make this a sticky as it's going to be invaluable. THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top-Pumped!

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Post #20799 21st Jun 2010 9:11pm
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hoppy_70



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Peoples Republic of Mancunia!
Posts: 648

England 2005 Range Rover Td6 Vogue Auto Tonga Green

Masterclass Thumbs Up

Post #20800 21st Jun 2010 9:16pm
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specman



Member Since: 20 May 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 196

Scotland 2007 Range Rover TDV8 Vogue Auto Tonga Green

One guy who was game to dabble lives over on another forum and he showed how to suck the oil out of the dipstick for intermediate oil changes

Here is his original post:

M3 Compact wrote:
I don't mind DIYing any jobs on cars, but due to the hassle of undertrays and the complications of oil disposal, I usually take cars to my mate's garage to have the oil changed. It's so much easier on a ramp/lift.

However, our local recycling depot will now take oil - so today I invested in one of these......

Click image to enlarge


I'm not a huge fan of this method, I'd rather drain the sump properly.

It's very easy, convenient, clean and quick to do tho and my intention is to change the oil more regularly, which should compensate for any 'dregs' left behind. And there's no risk of stripping the sump plug socket.

Is there, Croxy? Wink

It's a convenience thing for me. I don't object to paying beer tokens for the labour of an oil change, but it's sometimes a hassle/inconvenient arranging it.

If you're paying £30 labour to have your oil changed, these things are only £70 to buy and they're 100% idiot proof.

Post #20808 21st Jun 2010 10:05pm
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