Afternoon all, have done a search but not found what I'm looking for.

Yesterday I had the infamous door handle cable snap. Removed the door card, got a cable, replaced, all good.

I disconnected the battery whilst I was doing it, and I left the door card off overnight, with the switch panel removed so it was still connected to the cables (although I did pop those off first but decided to leave them connected after).

All back together but now I have the following issues:

1. Central locking doesn't lock the driver's door. Locks everything else but needs the key for the driver's door.
2. Driver's window one-shot doesn't work, you have to hold the button down
3. No other windows working from the driver's door (although they work fine, and with one-shot, from their own switches).

That's all that I have discovered so far! But it's enough, esp as MrsC wants the car tomorrow!

Anything obvious that I'm missing? Or does it need plugging in? I'll pop the card off again and check the connections but they're help in with secure clips so I'll be surprised if they have come away.

it does appear to be a dodgy connection as all the door electrics dont work..

try the door access mode switch , if that doesnt work then its the above.. ... - .- -.




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It's all gone squiffy Stan!

The access-height button does work.

Latest:

- driver's window now working on one-shot
- driver's mirror working, passenger's not
- no other windows working from the driver's door
- central locking still not working (I tried the key on it yesterday when the cable broke, does that upset anything?)

So yes, it does seem like connections, but these have a little locking bar on them so you can't not get them in fully, if you know what I mean.

There are three connectors on the door switch panel, the top two are as described above but the bottom one I couldn't get out at all (which was why I dropped the switch panel off the door card and left it there). Anyone know how the bottom one is released? I could re-seat that.

Oh and also it changes height with the driver's door open, I'm sure that's not supposed to happen!

There is a tiny two-wire connector on the door loom which doesn't appear to be connected to anything and wasn't when I removed the door card. Don't know what it would be for and there are no spare counterparts to it visible anywhere. Unless it detached itself as I took the door card off?

weird...try a 30 minute battery disconnection and see if that reboots everything back to normal ,if not re-check all connections.. ... - .- -.




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Hmmmmm…..had a fiddle round with one of the two plugs on the switch pack and everything* started working. Pressed the door card back into place and nada! So that connector is iffy, which is not great, makes me wonder whether it will be reliable in future. I'm going to have to pack something into it to hold it.

* Re the central locking then, as I used the key on it yesterday, has that upset anything? Or am I looking for another random bad connection somewhere?

Sounds like what I had on the 4.2 a while ago. The plugs need to be seated really well. Please also check if the pins are not bent, they are very thin so maybe some are bent and "go the wrong way" when the plug goes in.

The locking "lever" should be seated well after pushing the plug in deep.

Any chance the wires got damage or chafed ?? Somewhere around the door ? MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

We're definitely on the same track ebajema. It's definitely those connectors on the door switch pack. Despite only having been off once (yesterday, and probably never before) and despite the latch, they will not reseat properly. Pins not bent, I did check that. I now have a piece of lolly stick wedged under the latches and the only thing I am missing is one-shot drivers window in the Up direction - one-shot down works

I don't know whether the switch pack (expensive) or the connectors (beyond fiddly) needs replacing. Or the car

And the central locking also still doesn't work on the driver's door. Haven't touched that - well, not until I removed/replaced the plug on the actuator just now to see if that would fix it. Worked perfectly yesterday. Funny how much fallout there can be from a simple little cable nipple breaking.

It's back together now so that it can be used, I'll need to get it plugged in I think and see what comes back. Does anyone have any thoughts on the switch pack, i.e. connectors or pack? I can't see how else to resolve that?

Hi Cappo, did you get any further with this?

This evening I replaced my drivers door handle cable (also snapped at the nipple) and now have some very similar problems....

1. Central locking doesn't lock the driver's door. Locks everything else but needs the key for the driver's door.
2. Driver's window one-shot doesn't work, you have to hold the button down
3. Door puddle lamp no longer works (the one at the bottom of the door, the one in the mirror is working ok)
4. Opening drivers door does not illuminate the interior courtsy lights (works ok if you open any other door)
5. Red flashing light on the dash not illuminating when locked (must be related to drivers door locking issue)

I suspect I have connector issues as well and will have to take it apart again to try and resolve (really looking forward to getting the door card back on )

Any help appreciated  2007 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE - now sold but was a great car!

Hi Graeme,

Yes, all sorted on mine! Sorry all, I should have returned and updated this.

I removed the door card again. You will have seen that there are three connectors on the switch panel. 2 of these are cam-type connectors which "pull" themselves into place as you close them. On mine, there was not a really firm click into place - they felt slightly loose. Near the bottom of the cam lock there is a small (very small) hole which lines up with a corresponding hole on the switch panel itself. I lock-wired the cams into place using some fuse wire just to ensure that those cannot become dislodged at all when you replace the door card (or shut the door).

Secondly, there is the remaining, large, connector which I suspect carries various sources of power to the unit. I made sure that this was really firmly pushed in place, and it did in fact move very slightly as I pushed on it, although it appeared to be in place visually. This cured all my woes and everything has worked fine as normal ever since.

In my view the cables to the window switch pack are quite short when you are trying to remove the door card (which isn't particularly heavy, but is awkward to handle and which also requires a little bit of force to remove). I suspect that when removing, it's easy to inadvertently put a bit of strain on the cables/connectors which produces the symptoms you & I have both seen. I guess the door card is not generally a "service" item, although of course with the chocolate release cables there is no alternative but to remove it!

My final tip for anyone else attempting this is to try and release to top of the door card before removing the whole item, (if necessary, you can pop the bottom lugs out first but then half-replace a few of them to take the weight as you release to top ones) then use a luggage strap (the cam lock type is best) around the top of the door card and the top of the door itself (window open!) to support the weight of the card while you have a look at what you've got and how to move/support/access it for the task in hand.

Thanks for the reassurance Cappo and top tip on the luggage strap

I know what I am doing Saturday morning (I didnt start until 9pm last night and finished about 11pm! Dont fancy repeating that tonight!) 2007 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE - now sold but was a great car!

Just to update on my issues - removed the door card again, cleaned everything and put it back together making sure all the connectors were pushed fully home and everything started working normally again! 2007 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE - now sold but was a great car!

HI on my 2003

I found that C2058 on the switch pack was the culprit. No physical signs of bad connection, but
when the door card comes off and you let the door card drop down, it tends to pull the loom(s) to the door card and the internals of the C2058. This connector has the p bus so you get some weird faults from mirror motors to windows

I used a zip tie round the switch pack and over the top of C2058 to hold it in tight and compress the internals of the connector

all my faults disappeared