Hi All,

Well radiator changed, new thermostat, new water pump, all flushed out and refilled. Then came the dreaded bleeding procedure, well it wasn't bad just prolonged and took about 4 days of burping and adding coolant to get it right.

Anyway I said the Range Rover hasn't moved because it isn't taxed etc etc but I'm getting a strange problem. When I let it tick over on idle for about 20 minutes or so to warm it up and circulate the coolant to bleed it, I get air susp inactive, hdc inactive and trans fail safe, let it cool down for a few hours and the faults are gone. Now I understand driving it and getting the trans problem but it sitting on tick over is irking me because I'm not using the gearbox.

Do you think that it's throwing a fit and overheating because the bleeding hasn't been completed and I've got air in the system? You might be forgiven in thinking that I've actually driven this thing but I haven't, if you've read my other posts you'll see what I got out of the radiator and that's why I bought it cheap as a possible head gasket fault but it was the rad that was blocked and the goo that I got out of it is weird stuff....see the attached.

If you disconnected the battery you will get all manners of bongs/alerts until you move steering wheel side to side

Hi,

Yes I've disconnected but I've done the steering wheel moving, I have an IIDtool as well but that does no good with these faults, only good old waiting for it to cool down fixes it - kinda.

Regards to all ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Simon, thats about the depth of my help, hopefully someone with more skill will be along soon

What fault codes are you getting with the IID?

And check the gearbox oil temperature with your IID Tool  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi,

I'll have to check again tomorrow what codes it's throwing back as I'm about to go out and drown my sorrows

I'll get the temps for the gearbox at the same time.

Many thanks

Regards to all ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Have you jacked it up recently with the wheels hanging down or touched the height or ABS sensors as these can cause all sorts of problems as can a dodgy battery.
Also the wiring to the thermostat is prone to go bad with corrosion and can burn out causing a lot of electrical problems

Hi Chicken,

No haven't jacked it up or touched the abs sensors, I also checked the wiring to the main thermostat when I changed it and all seemed OK.

It's the other thermostat that I think may be dodgy.

Regards to all. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

UK Marine wrote:

Anyway as always any help, ideas or hard drinking tips would be gratefully appreciated.

Regards to all..

Naked bar or spoofing for drinking a pint of pi55?

To me it sounds like your problem may be low voltage at tick-over from the alternator. If the alternator is not charging very well at the low RPM, than the voltage will drop and that generates all kinds of interesting faults in a FFRR !!!

Check the voltage on tick-ver and hopefully that is the answer. May need a new alternator though and that is not great but at least you know what the issue is.

Also check for wiring connector corrosion, battery clamp corrosion etc. Just to rule out other low voltage generating issues. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Hi,

Sorry it's taken so long to add to this post but I've been a bit busy on other projects,

Anyway I tested the voltage this morning, battery 12.6v no engine running, 13.8 - 13.9v tick over and 12.65v with lights, heater, heated screen etc.

So it looks like the voltage regulator is u/s because as soon as I put it under load it drops quite significantly.

Looks like I'll be refurbishing my alternator.

What's your views guys?

Regards ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

I would be checking all the earths, battery terminals, etc. A bad earth will also cause voltage drop, especially as load increases.

It would certainly be worth checking all your wiring and have a google about in depth testing the alternator but i think it would point towards the alternator as should be charging at over 14 volts.
i have had a read about getting the alternators refurbished or doing it yourself so the information is out there

Cheers my friends, I'll have a go with all of your suggestions especially the earthing points.

Regards ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current