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mattyp



Member Since: 30 Jul 2016
Location: Clacton On Sea, Essex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Looks like he don't have anymore, would you sell yours ?

Post #406743 28th Sep 2016 9:12am
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Covbandit



Member Since: 11 Jan 2016
Location: Coventry
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Oslo Blue

Sorry couldnt sell mine, but if you are quick
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Vanos-Timing...Sw8gVX3Ue1

Selling a complete kit cheap, with the crank locking tool

Post #406782 28th Sep 2016 12:52pm
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Covbandit



Member Since: 11 Jan 2016
Location: Coventry
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Oslo Blue

Sorry for the short reply was at work, th it is too valuable a tool to sell, so will keep it just in case I ever nee to do any vanos work in the future. Another tip is to clean the hole in the bell housing wit a bit of sandpaper before putting locking pin in, mine was tight and would not go fully home. If you lived locally I would have leant it to you. You can hire the kit out as well with a small refundable deposit, but I wanted it there for any future work, which it will more than likely need.

Post #406805 28th Sep 2016 3:36pm
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mattyp



Member Since: 30 Jul 2016
Location: Clacton On Sea, Essex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Thanks for the help, I have bought that kit. I love the way you don't have a clue these guides are going. I started mine up and the revs shot up to 2k and then dropped and it started making a ticking noises

Post #406811 28th Sep 2016 4:11pm
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Covbandit



Member Since: 11 Jan 2016
Location: Coventry
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Oslo Blue

I must admit mine did have some warning, I just did not know it, there was a slight humming noise on the over run, sounded a bit like the ild radio zzzzzzzzzz noise, I assumed incorrectly it was an idler bearing or alternator bearing, but now I know. I am going to change the hydraulic tensioner every 20k or so as this seems to be theroot cause, the tensioner loses tension, the chain is a bit slack, slaps the plastic guides and breaks them, as mine werent worn, but the main v one was just a pile of bits. When you pull the main centre v shaped guide off there is a small metal disc behind with a tiny hole in, obviously some sort of oil restriction washer, this fell out of mine and luckily I spotted it, just be careful when removing and check it is there before re-assembly.
Best of luck with the rebuild and if you have not replaced your breather hoses yet do them at the same time as access is a lot easier.

Post #406813 28th Sep 2016 4:30pm
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mattyp



Member Since: 30 Jul 2016
Location: Clacton On Sea, Essex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Thanks for the help, what is this washer ?

Post #407802 5th Oct 2016 2:43pm
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Covbandit



Member Since: 11 Jan 2016
Location: Coventry
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Oslo Blue

The main V shaped guide in the block has an o ring at the bottom where it fits in the block. It is in that hole that mine had this washer. About the size of a 5pence piece with an approx 2mm hole in it. I will see if I can find a piccie somewhere.

Post #407809 5th Oct 2016 3:54pm
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mattyp



Member Since: 30 Jul 2016
Location: Clacton On Sea, Essex
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Thank you, I know what you mean, did you use a acoustic meter to set the cams up ?

Post #407831 5th Oct 2016 7:06pm
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johnboyairey



Member Since: 11 Jan 2013
Location: surrey
Posts: 2024

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

having done this repair job myself a couple of years ago, im just posting here, that mine is still running sweet and quiet.

With its new large chain, all three guides, and upper chain tensioner nylon guides, and re-sealed vanos drive 'cogs'.
if you look at a new centre guide, (the U shaped piece) you will notice, that its just clipped on. so, if any of the clip on pieces, were to go brittle with heat, and age.... and break off, the central U shaped guide, that nylon guide, is now only hanging on with its profile. when it breaks, and lets go, its devoured by the chain, and then, the guide rail, (u shaped) is now chain against aluminium, (swarfing your oil) chain is now slack, tensioner at its outermost, and right hand guide, (all nylon) is at mercy of the driver. mine broke into two pieces, but held on. the left aluminium rail could also shed its (clip-on) nylon guide, making the chain at huge risk, of loosing mesh, and slacking the timing, with pistons, ready to hit valves.

Its not an easy job, especially getting the huge lower crankcase cover off. to do this, you need to undo the crank pulley bolt. I made a sort of pulley type drilled flat plate, with an arm welded on, when bolted to crank, (using stainless bolts!) the arm is swung against the front subframe, and engine is now 'locked' (not at TDC!) Take a six foot scaffold pole attached to a 3/4 inch breaker bar, and standing on the slam panel, with socket on the crankbolt...you pull real hard!
take your time doing this whole job... using RTV in the corners of your new cover seals, and, you will have a new sounding engine. with a least another 100,000 happy miles.

When I replaced my vanos cogs, I couldn't get the electric meter to sound. and after talking to the guy that sole the seals, he confirmed that not all the cogs make contact. so I used my pen marker to see the typical distances, or travel, and their setting positions.
All went well, and I was pleased. especially as I was doing it outside, during the January super cold spell. bursting my bladder with endless cups of boiling tea.

Post #407836 5th Oct 2016 8:00pm
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