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Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

L322 TD6 Oil change & all filters

Hi everyone,

Saw that the old oil change thread had lost its photos so thought I'd do another one!

What you'll need:

Oil filter LPZ000020
Air filter PHE000040
Pollen/charcoal filter JMO00010
Fuel filter WFL000070

Oil...I used 8.8 litres of Comma Syner-z Fully synthetic 5W30 after doing lots of research it's recommended for BMW engines which the TD6 is I bought a 20L drum as I intend on keeping the car and changing at 8000 mile intervals

Click image to enlarge

sump washer

Tools:

35mm socket (oil filter housing)
17mm socket (sump plug)
13mm socket (Fuel filter clamp/pollen filter housing & starter motor cable nut)
T40 torx bit (Fuel filter sensor)
T30 torx bit (Fuel filter bracket)
Allen key & long extender bar(air filter cover)

First things first open the bonnet and put into service mode:

A small flat blade screwdriver to remove the clips from the gas struts, pry them outwards then pull the gas struts off and lift the bonnet to near vertical.
It can be done with one person but its not idea (the bonnet is very heavy so be careful!)

Click image to enlarge

slide the clips over the retaining bolts:

Click image to enlarge

Bonnet should be secure and well out of the way.

With the engine warm place a suitable size container (9 litres or more) under the drain plug, the drain plug is on the rear left of the sump when your looking at the front of the car:
(Excuse the poor under tray! god knows what the previous owner did to it!

)

obviously make sure the catch tray is positioned so that it catches the oil as it streams out towards the left of the vehicle, it didn't go as far as I expected it to but best to be wary.

Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain:

Not sure when mine had last been changed but it was fairly black, not particularly smelly though but considering the engines done 140k I thought I'd change it.

Now you can climb back out from under the car and remove the oil filler cap and dip stick, this allows the oil to drain out more freely.

The oil filter can also be removed now, this will allow more oil stuck in the filter housing to drain out of the sump, it's a 35mm socket, mine had been overtightened by some monkey well over the 25 Nm stated.

Click image to enlarge

Always a good idea to mop out any excess oil, the less dirty oil left the better!

Click image to enlarge

Then clean out the filter cap, change the O ring and replace the filter, smear of fresh oil around the O ring and reinsert into the filter assembly (tighten to 25 Nm)

At this stage I left the filling of the oil so that the sump can drain while I changed the rest of the filters.

Fuel filter:
Undo both fuel lines and plug the ends to stop fuel spilling into engine bay
Unplug the sensor and tuck the cable out of the way, remove the T40 torx holding the sensor and remove sensor from filter:

Fit to new filter, loosen 2 nuts holding the filter bracket then remove filter & bracket keeping filter upright, theres lots of fuel in it! I wouldn't bother re-using the fuel as you can't guarantee its all clean.

fit the bracket to the new filter and fix back into place, reattach fuel pipes..

Click image to enlarge

Onto the Pollen/Charcoal filter:

The filter appears to be able to be changed without removing the filter assembly by pressing down clips on the top opening a small flap where the filter can be withdrawn, due to the access required for the engine air filter it is easier to remove the filter assembly.

Remove starter motor cable (13mm nut) and move out of the way, Be careful with the disconnected end as this is from the battery, tape over if necessary.

Undo 2 13mm nuts holding filter inlet in place & remove filter assembly:

remove 3 bolts from the underside of the filter assembly and unclip the housing:

Click image to enlarge

remove and replace filter reassemble filter assembly.

Air filter:
Undo 5 allen bolts holding the filter in, 2 right at the back:

one in the middle on top & 2 on the front:

Click image to enlarge

oil filler cap needs to be removed to take the air filter cover off.

Click image to enlarge

Dirty filter!

Click image to enlarge

The lump on the back end of the filter is lower end down when fitted as in the photo:

Click image to enlarge

Re-fit air filter cover tighten allen bolts, re-fit Pollen/Charcoal filter assembly tighten 2 13mm nuts, re-fit starter motor cable.

Back to the oil change...

Make sure the sump plug is fitted and torqued to 23 Nm inspect copper washer and replace if required, I tend to use 8 nuts to keep count of how many litres I am putting in starting with the .8 of a litre taking a nut from the pile for each litre after, refit oil filler cap.

once filled check for leaks then start the engine, it will take a bit of cranking to get fuel through the filter so don't worry, warm engine up turn off and allow to settle for a few minutes, check the oil and add if necessary, I found 8.8 litres to be perfect for mine.

11th Feb 2017 10:41pm

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 34913

done a good job there Ollie, i'll stick in the wiki.. ... - .- -.

click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

11th Feb 2017 11:06pm

gregdav

Member Since: 26 May 2014
Location: just north of stafford
Posts: 1077

Well done Ollie, thanks for taking the time.
Greg.

12th Feb 2017 7:44am

lounge_on_wheels

Member Since: 10 Dec 2016
Location: in the great land of oz
Posts: 269

Thanks for the tutorial.
Though you don't need to lift the bonnet into "Service mode" it can all be done without the need to do it. The only time I have needed to put the bonnet in service mode was to change the battery as it will not come out without the bonnet lifted.

Interesting to see you guys use Britpart filters over there, Britpart has a reputation for being low quality over here in Oz.
We prefer to use filters like the MAHLE Germany/Austria made. We would never use quality oil and then put a "cheap Quality" filter with it.

12th Feb 2017 9:25am

Weegie

Member Since: 09 Jun 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 3192

2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Stornoway Grey

Nice write up.

Like L_o_W I tend not to use Britpart for things like filters. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

12th Feb 2017 9:59am

Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

Thanks for the comments, just thought it may have been easier with the bonnet up but agreed it could be done with it in the normal position, interesting comment on the britpart stuff, have only had the car 2 months and hadn't seen any negatives about them till just now

12th Feb 2017 10:53am

Weegie

Member Since: 09 Jun 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 3192

Experience with Britpart tends to show that they are fine for some things but for others OEM is, in the longer run, the cheapest way to go. For me filters fall into that category.

The do have a modified name in some quarters.

As you say, the pollen filter can be replaced without removing the assembly but removing it makes access to the rear bolts for the air filter much easier. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Last edited by Weegie on 12th Feb 2017 11:17am. Edited 1 time in total

12th Feb 2017 11:13am

Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

Will take note for next time fortunately the part numbers for the filters are for all makes not just britpart!

12th Feb 2017 11:17am

gregdav

Member Since: 26 May 2014
Location: just north of stafford
Posts: 1077

I have used bearmach in the past, I go for the mahle filters, oe if cheap enough, sometimes come up on ebay, my last fuel filter was a bearmach and fitted great, I had problems sealing the all makes one.
Don't worry too much, the m57 engine is quite dated compared to a lot of the later models, I think we spoil them by putting synthetic oil in them, but that's what is recommended, I have heard that these engines run ok on semi synthetic.
you'll soon get to know what to look out for.
Greg.

12th Feb 2017 6:56pm

Judo

Member Since: 24 Nov 2016
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 14

Thanks for a great write up. -Justin
2006 Vogue Td6

25th Apr 2017 4:22am

Michel

Member Since: 18 Jul 2022
Location: Belsele
Posts: 1

Hey Guys, just finished mine ( Vogue 2004, 332.000Km, still running like new ) just one remark wich is often forgotten: also change the Cranckcase Breathing Filter ( on top off the cranckcase just before the plenum on right hand side) failing to do so may cause severe damage to your turbo over time. Regards and keep up the good tips!

19th Jul 2022 8:19pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 7908

2014 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

The most common mistake first timers do is in fitting the new oil filter to the top housing, it needs to be fitted correctly and pushed in far enough to seat correctly... If you have not done one before then measure the distance shown in red here on the old filter and insure the new one is pushed home to the same distance...

Leaving it lose and tightening the cap back on usually just damages the filter, it doesn't sit properly and doesn't filter the oil...

I also think you should use only genuine filters, especially the oil one, the few extra pounds IMHO is well worth it..

Britpart always used to be called Sh**part...?? although a lot of their stuff is now much better than it used to be... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

19th Jul 2022 11:14pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

Good advice there, couldn't agree more.

19th Jul 2022 11:29pm

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