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rar110



Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

Australia 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Atacama Sand

Thanks. 500 Euros is a great price, so I'd say refurbished.

As it's electrical I'd guess at battery voltage, something unplugged or an earthing point not connected or bad connection when re-assembling. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Post #445216 20th Jul 2017 11:08pm
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LASBAM



Member Since: 04 Apr 2017
Location: Reutlingen
Posts: 24

Germany 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Orkney Grey

Well after a long search it was a stuck LH turbo actuator. Bank B is the Left Hand Side seen from drivers view.

I tried very hard to get the turbo actuator running smooth again but with "WD40" its not really working..
Neutral
Anyone got an idea how to get it running smooth ? Any experiences made with this problem?


I really don't want to replace the LHD Turbo a second time.. This job is just horrible Big Cry

Post #448652 22nd Aug 2017 9:33am
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Frans@Yamorna



Member Since: 15 Apr 2017
Location: Tzaneen
Posts: 144

South Africa 2012 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Zambezi Silver

Probably soot in the vanes so need to be cleaned internally.Sure you will get some product that you can put through to loosen it up?
Good luck. 2012 TDV8 Vogue SE 4.4

Post #448706 22nd Aug 2017 1:56pm
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rar110



Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

Australia 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Atacama Sand

A few questions.

Could the actuator be moved before installed? The Vanes and actuator shouldn't be sooted if fully reconditioned with a new CHRA or core.

Was the fan spinning freely before install?
The bearings should be lubed before starting for the first time.

Do you have a IID Tool? It would be good to read boost pressure for each bank.

There are a few possibilities.

1. I'm thinking it's unlikely that the vanes/actuator are stuck solid before install. But possible if supplier is not particularly ethical ie sent you junk.

2. The fan is not generating enough boost to result in the actuator to moving (ECU identifying insufficient boost) because fan is not spinning freely or out of balance (eg cheap knock off CHRA). Need to check boost pressure.

3. The actuator is not plugged in properly, defective or some problem accurately reading boost on that bank. Need to check boost pressure. I'm assuming it's a reconditioned unit and the electronic actuator was not replaced and is up to 10-11 years old. It's also possible but unlikely the turbo actuator needs calibrating like other electrics on the L322. Ive never heard of this though.

Good luck. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Post #448763 22nd Aug 2017 8:57pm
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bembo449



Member Since: 26 Jul 2017
Location: lincolnshire
Posts: 799

United Kingdom 2002 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Adriatic Blue

LASBAM wrote:
Well after a long search it was a stuck LH turbo actuator. Bank B is the Left Hand Side seen from drivers view.

I tried very hard to get the turbo actuator running smooth again but with "WD40" its not really working..
Neutral
Anyone got an idea how to get it running smooth ? Any experiences made with this problem?


I really don't want to replace the LHD Turbo a second time.. This job is just horrible Big Cry

are these the electronic type actuators ?

Post #448770 22nd Aug 2017 9:37pm
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rar110



Member Since: 09 Aug 2014
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1119

Australia 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Atacama Sand

On the 3.6 tdv8 yes. Not sure about other models. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Post #448775 22nd Aug 2017 10:13pm
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LASBAM



Member Since: 04 Apr 2017
Location: Reutlingen
Posts: 24

Germany 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Orkney Grey

Was the fan spinning freely before install?

-> yes of cours.

The bearings should be lubed before starting for the first time.

-> was done so this shouldn't be the problem. There was also filled Oil in the Oil access.

Do you have a IID Tool? It would be good to read boost pressure for each bank.

->Unfortunately not, but i have access to a Tester (Bosch KTS) so i can read it..

There are a few possibilities.

1. I'm thinking it's unlikely that the vanes/actuator are stuck solid before install. But possible if supplier is not particularly ethical ie sent you junk.

-> I hope not, but its always the same problem. My actuator rod get always gets stuck in open position and doesn't move back again and i have to free it again. Then the car starts and run smooth till i got it's temperature.... Arrow "Kloing Kloing" and the game starts again..

2. The fan is not generating enough boost to result in the actuator to moving (ECU identifying insufficient boost) because fan is not spinning freely or out of balance (eg cheap knock off CHRA). Need to check boost pressure.

-> To be honest i don't understand this question. But the car got enough power and runs very good. I will check Boost Pressure asap. The Actuator is not running very smooth, very rough especially when the car gets warm. I will try to free it with some Teflon Spray the next days and will tell you what happens..

3. The actuator is not plugged in properly, defective or some problem accurately reading boost on that bank. Need to check boost pressure. I'm assuming it's a reconditioned unit and the electronic actuator was not replaced and is up to 10-11 years old. It's also possible but unlikely the turbo actuator needs calibrating like other electrics on the L322. Ive never heard of this though.

-> The Turbo Actuator is not needed to be calibrated due to my LR Service. -> I think the best is to read the turbo pressure. You think my MAP sensor could be faulty as well?

Thank you much ahead Smile

Post #448840 23rd Aug 2017 4:41pm
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bembo449



Member Since: 26 Jul 2017
Location: lincolnshire
Posts: 799

United Kingdom 2002 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Adriatic Blue

rar110 wrote:
On the 3.6 tdv8 yes. Not sure about other models.

ive just replaced one on a customers Mercedes , transformed the cars performance but the car did not smoke at all with a faulty actuator just under powered

Post #448886 23rd Aug 2017 8:56pm
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Croker



Member Since: 23 Mar 2021
Location: Granada
Posts: 33

Spain 

LASBAM wrote:
The price was 500,- Euros per each.


As i said the work is nearly done i was a bit too quick..

Now we have the Problem of 2 trouble codes.The Turbo actuators are working -> checked with Camera...

P132E "Turbo boost control B performance"
P138F "Turbo boost control unit Sensor minimum"

Anyone got an idea?


Did you work out why you got the P132E fault code after replacing the new turbos? I have the same issue and cannot work out the solution... TDV8 3.6 2007 Vogue SE
Porsche Boxster 3.2S 2000
Porsche 928S 1986.5 Manual
Fiat Dino 2000 Coupe
BMW 2002 tii 1974
Mercedes 450SL 1973
Mercedes SL500 1995
Honda Civic 1.8 Si 2006
Fantic Caballero 125 Scrambler Deluxe

Post #620256 16th Jan 2022 10:47pm
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LASBAM



Member Since: 04 Apr 2017
Location: Reutlingen
Posts: 24

Germany 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Orkney Grey

Hi,
yes actually the control arm was stuck and tightened too strong by the company who refurbished the turbos..

I built myself a nice tool which i could attach directly to the control arm and move it free.. Did this movement 100times and went afterwards directly straight to the Autobahn. Since that i never had the same issues again Very Happy Current:
- 2006 RR L322 - 3.6 TDV8
- 2022 MB AMG GT BS
- 2020 Audi Q2

Past:
- Ferrari California 30
- 2018 Abarth 595 Competizione
- 2009 Porsche Cayenne Diesel
- 2010 MB E500 Coupé
- 2005 Porsche 996 Turbo
- 2002 Porsche Boxster 986 S
- 2001 Audi S8

Post #646322 23rd Oct 2022 4:51pm
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