Amazing well looked after, and not to far off to my list http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39687.html

Thing I am most impressed by is you are still on stock engine internals.. not had to have the timing chains, guides replaced is amazing at that mileage ! Long live the fullfat.

I totally agree with you a lot people buying these have no glue the cost it takes to keep them on the road long term if you actually drive them that is

Still love my good old 4.4 Petrol and don’t see myself driving anything else without the Range Rover name on it.. will most likely be moving the l405 but won’t be for few years yet. 2003 Range Rover 4.4 Litre V8 - Adriatic blue

2003 Range Rover 4.4 Litre V8 -Maintenance History Click Here = http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39687.html

Well my smugness at salvaging the problem with the fuel pump/sender was short lived and last week the gauge packed up again - I suspect one of the cobbled together bits failed again. So stripped down the car again, fumbled around in the tank and replaced it all with a completely new unit. All was good until I went to fill up and the new sender stubbornly told the gauge it was only 3/4 full. Both digital tank read outs in the hidden menu reflected a 75% reading, so looks like the unit was faulty. I did try a full battery reset just to check and ran the tank down and filled up again but no change. Almost looks like the entire unit has been calibrated for a smaller tank but anyway the suppliers are sending another one out.

Guess what I'm doing this weekend.....  Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Great thread

23/9/17 - 189,778miles

So this afternoon put another new fuel pump and sender unit in - can strip the car down, fit and put it back together in less than an hour now! Find out why the last one was under reading the tank on full, both the float bars on the unit were slight longer than the original and the replacement meaning that it wouldn't reach the top of the gauge before it reached the top of the tank! Anyway the supplier replaced without quibble. Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

This milestone this morning on the way home.

Noticed you had to do rocker cover gaskets twice is that normal? Have you had to do chains or guides or tensioner? Are you on lpg? How did you know you need to do the pcv/cyclone valve ? Thanks! Very insightful Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Dan - thanks for the comments.

I suspect that the quality of the first set of rocker gaskets wasn't the best, but you also need to consider the mileage in between - I don't know if the first ones I replaced at 100k were original or not. However its just come back from a service at 193k and they are absolutely fine at the moment so this set is holding well.

Running stock on Petrol only and I've not needed to do chains, guides or tensioners in my ownership. No suggestion either they were done prior to my ownership at 100k. No rattles (other than usual vanos at startup).

the PCV and Cyclone are preventative maintenance items and not too difficult to fit or expensive to buy - if you aren't sure they have been done, then its worth doing (and change the breather pipes too) - the short stubby one which runs back into the sump can often gum up and as its more of a pain to do than the others it can be left, even if the others are changed. My rule of thumb is if the breather pipes are starting to collapse then change the PCV valve as well anyway as routine. The cyclone can be cleaned out rather than replaced too unless its really gummed up. I read somewhere that they should be done (or at least inspected every 50k, but it never formed part of the LR Service schedule
hope that's useful Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Latest update

193,306 (Nov 2017) - Service. Oil & Air Filters. Changed wiper motor linkage, Passenger headlight wiper motor, front brake pads. Fixed slight coolant leak (traced to loose hose clip, Leak from front diff traced to blocked breather hose, topped up front diff oil. Next service post 200k!

The rear wheel arches will need a good look at in the Spring, although I did a quick clean up earlier in the year, it wasn't thorough enough so will need to do it properly! Still have a few minor paint issues as well even after the corrective work done post accident repair, but I think with the mileage its probably not worth worrying too much about it. I am almost at the point that a 2012 4.4 TDV8 is on the shopping list in the next couple of months, but I will keep this one running too. Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Thanks nick - am I being stupid is the cyclone and pcv the same? Also the one on the back of the engine if different I’ve seen a video where you can leave in situ and just change the diaphragm is this an ideas worth doing? How can you best check collapsed pipes? I’m at 160k now... cheers! Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Also is there a reason you’ve not done preventative on the guides as you j e on a fe other bits? Have you dropped your oil pan to check for plastic? If so is that an easy job Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Dropping the oil pan is straight forward, but I'm not sure there's any point.
If the timing chain guides give up you'll definitely hear the racket from the timing chain slapping around.
At least I did with mine, the noise was terrible. 2012 Westminster 4.4 TDV8 (sold)
2003 AB LE 4.4 V8 LPG (sold)

I see - if I had any sludge / crap would it accumulate here as well? If the guides were early on failing would I see here? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

You'd hear it!! Andy (Holday Chicken) on here had a marvellous description, "A noise like a skeleton w@nking in a biscuit tin"

Lovely description lol - does it slowly come on or does it just sound like that one day? Any idea of the cause? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

it just goes. Mine went on start up - It had been sitting for a while adn weather was very cold. I think the sudden movement yanked the chain adn that bashed the guide which snapped.