Just replaced my front struts. Here are some observations and difficulties with the process. There are videos of the process.
1. Iidtool seems to advise to deflate the entire system when replacing an air suspension part. I took that advice.
2. If you don't have both sides in the air the sway bar will push up on the end link hard.
3. The end link flats need to be accessed from the forward side of the strut unless you have a wrench with a strong angled head.
4. Not sure how you would get the strut up in position without help or lift on the spindle. I used a motorcycle jack.
5. My lower strut/spindle bolts were rusted in the spindle. Get the penetrating oil flowing. With the upper bolt out use a large screwdriver
between spindle and strut and pry the top of the spindle out. Using a 22 mm wrench or socket you can rotate the spindle back into position.
Keep working it back and forth. With it in the out position you can get more oil at the joint. I also used an electric impact gun with 230 lbs of
force which didn't seem like it did much. With the nut back on flush to the bolt threads so not to damage them apply a few BFH hits. Keep
checking with a breaker bar of at least 3 ft to see if you can get that first crack. Once it starts keep doing oil and BFH on the nut and breaker
bar.
6. Once the bolts are free keep one in place and lower the spindle and strut. On my left the air pipe was long and easy to position the strut to
remove the connection. The one on the right was very short and not fun.
7. The RAVE says bolt the strut in place on top with the air pipe attached but torque after it is in place. I have no idea how one would get even a
wrench let alone a torque wrench in there then. I torqued with new O rings before putting in position.
8. Upon re-inflation there were some unnerving groans and height adjustments.
9. I drove about 15 miles not over 35 MPH without issue. Wife had it on the highway for about 20 miles and the Air suspension inactive, ABS and
HDC warnings came on. I cleared the codes and the next day at the suggestion of another member I did the left right steering wheel reset. 50
miles more and still no warnings.

Mine took a brazing torch and a sledgehammer to move one of the lower bolts which was rusted in place - a new bolt was required after that ...

It was surprising how little rust would cause such a hard seizing. It was primarily where the head and the shaft meet and where the threads and the taper meet. One of my bolts had some pitting at the thread base. A wire wheel to clean up the rust and lots of anti-seize so it doesn't happen again. That would be a fair warning if doing this job and suspect rust seized bolts to have a couple spare on hand.