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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Replacing Rear Hub Bushes - How To
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6397

England 

Probably best to get the hub in "wheel on position" before tightening up, under load. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #397598 25th Jul 2016 4:51pm
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DoubleRL322



Member Since: 05 Jul 2016
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 25

United States 2003 Range Rover HSE 4.4 V8 Zambezi Silver

Ok meaning leave the jack supporting the lower control arm or not?

Post #397601 25th Jul 2016 4:56pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6397

England 

Yes, but jack to "wheel on" position so in effect taking the load of the car. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #397612 25th Jul 2016 5:38pm
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DoubleRL322



Member Since: 05 Jul 2016
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 25

United States 2003 Range Rover HSE 4.4 V8 Zambezi Silver

Ok thanks! I was able to jack up until the height sensor was completely horizontal. Hopefully thats what you mean.

Post #398827 2nd Aug 2016 1:04pm
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johnc10



Member Since: 25 Mar 2012
Location: England
Posts: 1

2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Excellent write up. I've just done mine exactly as you have shown. I used the Laser tools but your kit is better and cheaper. My height sensor rubbers had perished so replaced sensors too. I got a hub kit off ebay with bushes, bolts and washers, £90.

Post #402319 28th Aug 2016 12:44pm
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andyfid



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: barnsley
Posts: 99

England 2003 Range Rover Vogue SE Td6 Tangiers Orange

Thumbs Up excellent write up

Post #443934 8th Jul 2017 3:49pm
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mm289



Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 207

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Ipanema Sand

Just did mine this weekend, write up is really helpful.

One thing I would add is when before putting the new bush in clean up the area on the suspension arm that the circlip sits against. There is very little clearance on the clip and if you have rust/crud on the arm it can make getting the clip in a bit tricky.

And just incase you wondered how much leverage it can take to wind in the tool to drive the old bush out......


Shocked

That's my 5ft long commercial torque wrench with me (90kg) on the end. The Snap On windy gun wouldn't touch it!

Cheers,

Paul 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Post #466316 28th Jan 2018 9:52am
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

I'm doing mine on Monday. I've hired the correct tools (made by Laser Tools) from a fellow member of the AULRO forum. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #466433 29th Jan 2018 9:41am
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RRV78



Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Truro
Posts: 203

England 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

I must of been lucky as I’m doing a rear wheel bearing I pushed the bushes out with my 12 tonne press came out easily for once.

Post #466470 29th Jan 2018 1:29pm
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mm289



Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 207

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Ipanema Sand

But that would require taking the lower arm off the car and over to the press. I admit that is my preferred option, but with the lower knuckle on the lower suspension arm that is more hasle than trying to get the bush out in situ I think.....?

Cheers,

Paul. 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Post #466514 29th Jan 2018 8:16pm
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

A friend and I replaced the rear upper and lower bushes last Monday.

Look, no rust!



Marked to get the eccentric washer back in approximately thh right place. (The car is having a wheel alignment done as I write.)



Quite easy when one uses the right tools and have access to a hoist. I used the LaserTools http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5977 and http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5978





The bushes had little to no radial play but quite a bit of axial play, especially the left lower where the play was about 1.5mm. The grease was old and hard and there was a bit of rust in the joint.

The left lower also has two pieces of thin plastic (nylon?) jutting out of it. I assume they were/are the bearing surfaces. As noted above, the "bushes" are Heim/Rose Joints.

Click image to enlarge


and clean upper joint:

Click image to enlarge


Cost A$219 for the parts (incl. post). Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #468240 12th Feb 2018 3:40am
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Andy



Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2917

United Kingdom 2009 Range Rover SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

I’ve just tackled this job. I made light work of it with the Laser 5977 bush tool designed specifically for removing these bushes. The hardest part was getting the old bolts out.

It took 10 minutes to remove the old one inc setting the tool up. 5 minutes to fit the new one.

The tool was £85 but worth every penny. I’ll probably never use it again!

Post #481600 22nd Jun 2018 9:08am
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Pawl



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 665

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Cairns Blue

I changed them on ours last week too.
Bolt removal was a real pain.
I had to buy a cheap Screwfix reciprocating saw & loads of metal cutting blades to cut out siezed bolts on the top 1 side, bottom the other side & both toe control arms. I couldn't get my angle grinder in at all.

The bottom joint was horrible access & took more than hour to cut out, with repeated blade changes as the bolts are high strength & I was working on the drive.
Lots of very puzzled stares from passing neighbours - lol.

PS when re-assembling the toe control retaining bolts in the subframe I decided to fit them the opposite way round to standard, so the nut was at the rear, easily accessible with a socket for tightening . It seems easier to hold the bolt head with a ring spanner in the narrow gap in the subframe front. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Post #481603 22nd Jun 2018 9:40am
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Andy



Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2917

United Kingdom 2009 Range Rover SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

The bolts on mine were seized in good and proper. I had to use a large drift on an axle stand with a sledgehammer to bash it. Once it was finally out it was full of rust. I cleaned it up on a wire wheel but decided in the end to get a brand new one. Not worth the risk because if that fails, the hub comes away for the wishbone and that’s a disaster.

Post #481606 22nd Jun 2018 9:57am
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Pawl



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 665

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Cairns Blue

I was unsuccessful with a large lump hammer on 1 of the the siezed bolts - although the nut came off relatively easily.Hence the saw.

I thought I'd make a start on the other side by loosening & re-tightening the bolts, ready to tackle it the following week.
The top bush bolt came loose easily.
Too my horror, the bottom bush bolt nut initially wouldn't budge, but then just snapped off - leaving me with an unusable car unless I cut it out & replaced the bushes. Shocked Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Post #481607 22nd Jun 2018 10:07am
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