ok so lets have some ideas
put the flywheel locking pin in put 27mm socket on with big bar at first I snaped a short extention
tried it without and the locking pin snapped
so ????????????
#
just to check is it a left hand ie turn clockwise to undo
ir right hand ie turn anti-clockwise to undo

Not your engine but the crankshaft bolt in a TDV6 is normal RH thread.

Thanks but as you said mines the 4.4 m62

The picture in this link shows a RH thread on the bolt.
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/124233/5497/screw

Note that if the bolt is single use (ie is a stretch bolt) then a new one will be required.

If the tightening procedure is to tighten to a torque then turn a number of degrees, eg +90 degrees, then you can be pretty sure that the bolt is single use.

It’s a normal right hand thread and you need the locking tool and even then I used a scaffold tube and 3/4 bar. I broke a 3/4 swivel head bar and had to use a sliding bar instead. You are at risk of damaging your relatively thin starter ring and then you won’t be able to time your engine correctly. The locking pin is for timing purposes only. I’ll post some pics of when I did mine.
As above it is a single use stretch bolt.
The Rave manual tells you everything you need to know.

This is the correct tool to hold the crank while undoing the bolt, it’s a big lump.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=ht...1280308528

Yep got one on order and a 3/4 drive socket

Dont forget the piece of pipe.

My breaker bar was over 5 ft long , bought a good scaffold tube off eBay guy for £6.
I tried to undo the crank bolt on a removed engine and even with breaker bar and two people holding the engine in place strapped to a trolley (engine not people) it just lifted them up when trying to undo the bolt.
I had to ratchet strap the engine to a sizeable plank of wood and park my range on the wood so I could undo the bolt which worked a treat.
When using the crank tool, a small block of wood between the arm of the tool and the right hand chassis rail when looking at the car works well for me.
I have loads of photos if you need anything
You may need 4 longer bolts to bolt the tool to the crank pulley

Not done it on a RR but in the past when undoing a crank bolt I jacked the front of the car up put the socket on the bolt with the breaker bar fitted with the end of the bar on the drive or piece of timber and then let the jack down leaving the weight of the car on the breaker bar. Went for a coffee for a while whilst the weight of the car and gravity undid the bolt.
Could be worth a try.

Undone that bolt yet ??

nicedayforit wrote:

Not done it on a RR but in the past when undoing a crank bolt I jacked the front of the car up put the socket on the bolt with the breaker bar fitted with the end of the bar on the drive or piece of timber and then let the jack down leaving the weight of the car on the breaker bar. Went for a coffee for a while whilst the weight of the car and gravity undid the bolt.
Could be worth a try.

Nice

I've used a similar trick for hub nuts in the past.

All done now quiet easy with the right tool

Here's a pic of the holding tool with a pair of pliers for scale. That is solid steel as well, not a tube.