RRUK
Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 3444
 
|
Right, the work is done and here is an abridged version of how to do this for yourself: I'd recommend getting the L322 Workshop Manual to refer to, although I found it lacking in some details.
1. Put the car into Off Road height so you can crawl underneath. Ideally you should use proper axle stands, I didn't have any that were up to the job.
2. Ideally you should disconnect the battery negative terminal, however as I needed to use the air suspension I left mine connected
3. Using a 10mm socket set undo the 6 bolts holding in the engine undertray
3. Using another socket, undo the sump plug seen here, it's on the rear left side of the engine (driver's side) I used 2 old washing up bowls to collect the oil
4. Remove the engine plastic covers, the one at the front and the left side which houses the air filter. You need an allen head set for this.
5. Remove the fuel filter by unclipping the electric feed, remove the sensor on the top using a star shaped bit, unfasten the two fuel hoses (these are jubilee clips with a weird fitment - you can undo them with a flat screwdriver but will need a pair of pliers to put them back. I'd recommend having 2 normal jubilee clips to replace them in advance) and then the star shaped torx bit holding the body at the back of the filter. Remove from engine bay upright as it contains 1/2 litre of fuel. I discarded it as it looked like it had all sorts of rubbish in it.
6. With the fuel filter out of the engine bay this gives you more room to access the oil filter. If you have a 35mm socket use this, I didn't so I used a set of large mole grips. Place a rag over the alternator underneath the oil filter housing in case of any drips. Unscrew the oil filter head slowly, then once undone remove centre spindle. paper filter is inside, remove this. Clean the filter head and body to remove old oil. Replace new filter into the body and put new rubber gasket onto the thread, lube with fresh oil. replace head onto the body.
7. Fit new fuel filter in reverse procedure of removal. Ensure fuel hoses are tight and leak free.
8. Remove old air filter and hoover out any debris left in the housing as seen below. Mine was full of all sorts of rubbish because the last service was done poorly and the casing was not put back properly, letting in debris and of course air leaks.
Old filter REALLY needed swapping
 | | Click image to enlarge |
9. Undo the 3 bolts holding the pollen filter housing together. These are 8mm. They are situated underneath the foam padding above the engine block at the rear of the engine bay. Lift off the rubber sealing trim across the back of the bonnet and open up the pollen filter housing. Pull out the old, slide in a new one. Replace trim and 3 bolts. This is the easiest part of the service.
10. Replace sump plug washer with a new one and fit back into sump. Fill up engine with 9 litres of fresh oil.
11. Replace plastic engine covers ensuring the air filter is properly sealed. This can be a bit tricky, when you have put the new air filter in you really have to squeeze it in backwards so that the rear part drops into the spigot mounting, only if this is done will the cover go back on ok.
12. Start engine and check for leaks from sump, oil and fuel filters.
13. Refit the engine undertray with the 6 bolts.
This is how the engine bay SHOULD look after a service, certainly not the way the garage left it for me last time.
 | | Click image to enlarge |
Please dispose of used engine oil and any other chemicals such as drained fuel in an environmentally friendly manner such as your local domestic refuse tip where proper oil containers are held.
I bought a pattern part service kits from Britpart as these are a reputable supplier of LR parts. I used the best oil as I didn't think it was worth any risk. Should the engine blow up for ANY reason, I wouldn't want to be told that it was due to using cheap oil and because I wanted to save £20. In any case, Halfords own oil was only marginally cheaper so I didn't see the point in NOT buying Castrol.
At the end of the day I have peace of mind knowing my car has been serviced with meticulous detail, unlike the previous so called 'proper' service. They had not put the air filter housing back, hence it was full of leaves and black as soot. The fuel filter too did NOT look like it had EVER been replaced, can this amount of rust form in 6000 miles? From memory this has always been like this, so looks like no one ever changed it, not even the Dealers.
If anyone wants to ask me any questions on the procedure feel free to PM me.
 | | Click image to enlarge | THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end
2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB
|
1st May 2009 5:59pm
