I just fitted the OE front lamp guards to my car and have to say the instructions could be better.

if you are doing them, here's the best way to do it:

Offer up the guard to the light and check how they will look. Stick the paper template to the front wing as shown and drill the holes.

Use araldite or similar to secure the little plugs in the wing, when its set, screw the mounting strip on. There is a double skin in the wing, it is safe to drill through both.

Offer up the guard, affix the side screws into the mount and THEN mark the holes for the front two holes.

Drill these last and then fit as shown.

It shows in the instructions to use the flat head screws for the mounting strip on the front panels, however they are not long enough and you need to use the round head ones instead. It makes no difference, they all fit ok.

Any problems, PM me. THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Last edited by RRUK on 20th Aug 2008 8:32pm. Edited 1 time in total

Come On you can't do such an adventurous task without showing us a pic

You seem to be doing a fair few alterations, wheels, light guards, pipes, grill, vents

I also fitted a set of rear light guards tonight so I will get some pictures posted soon. THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Front ones and rear ones done now, very easy to fit.

Do you not get mud and crap caught behind them Adam? How does this sit with your mentalist cleaning routine?  Halfway Down The Stairs,
Is the Stair Where I Sit.

That might happen I suppose, but that just gives me an excuse to clean it harder!

Actually, since I got this car I've been much less fussy about cleaning it, probably only gets done once a month now and sometimes, I actually think it looks better with some purposeful dirt on it, proves it's no Chelsea Tractor!

Fit for Purpose sums it up. Mind you its nothing like my dad's, his would put a farmer to shame! Its disgusting.  THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

using the templates you do not need to drill any part of the car body work at all, the mounts fit on behind the lights it took me like 2 hours to fit the all front and back but without drilling any of the cars bodywork?

must be a different front kit to mine. The factory ones are drilled into the front of the side wings, I just saw a set on a car at a dealer up the road from work.

The rears required no drilling at all. THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

RRUK wrote:

must be a different front kit to mine. The factory ones are drilled into the front of the side wings, I just saw a set on a car at a dealer up the road from work.

The rears required no drilling at all.

The ones I had which are genuine version have a plastic mounting strip underneath the guard by the indicator strip. This has to be mounted by drilling 2 holes in the wing and pushing in two threaded plugs. The light guard itself is then screwed onto the mounting strip using 2 allen head screws supplied. THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

RRUK wrote:

The ones I had which are genuine version have a plastic mounting strip underneath the guard by the indicator strip. This has to be mounted by drilling 2 holes in the wing and pushing in two threaded plugs. The light guard itself is then screwed onto the mounting strip using 2 allen head screws supplied.

Might be cos mine is a facelift version and they changed the fittings?? THE INVENTOR OF THE TERM "FULL-FAT RANGE ROVER" :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic666.ht...vented#end

2008MY TDV8 Vogue SE, Stornoway/Jet/Piano/ RSE+DVD
2003 Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top Ruggedised

*Gone: Range Rover Vogue TD6, JE Stage 1
*Gone: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 4.2V8
*Gone: Range Rover Vogue Classic 3.9 Auto
*Gone: Land Rover Series 3 SWB

RRUK wrote:

Might be cos mine is a facelift version and they changed the fittings??

Guys the thread nut is known as a rivnut and a proper tool is required to fit it properly Adhesive really is not the answer

I have got the light guards fitted to my FFRR i think they look excellent and they make no difference to the cleaning!