Another lost weekend, another photo tutorial

This one not for the faint-hearted, lots to dismantle just to get access to the thermostat. Have included a pdf of most of the relevant/important sections in RAVE for UK model. This of course leaves out the puffing and cursing requirements when using the word "refit" is just not enough! The two difficult bits are the viscous (vicious) coupling fan and the cylinder block drain plug (if you don't have a ramp!)

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=380

Tools Needed:
7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm socket
4/4.5mm, 6mm Allen key or equivalent
E8 / T40 female torx socket
T45 male torx driver
32mm open ended spanner
Viscous Coupling Spanner (very thin to get on the pulley nut)
Various extensions and ratchets, 1/2", 3/8", 1/4"
Hide hammer
Flat bladed screwdriver
Pliers
Some rubber tubing
Bucket
WD40
Kagool (see removing drain plug from cylinder block!)
Dictionary of colloquialisms and swear words
Bonnet stay if windy
Inspection Lamp
Coolant/Antifreeze
Trolley Jack & Axle Stands (for the larger frame )

Time required:
Between 4 -6 hours, dependent on skill level, whether you have done it before, you have all the right tools, everything comes apart and goes back together as it should.


Outcome:
Needed changing because needle was all over the place dropping when going down hills rising when going up them, but holding when stationary.

Needle now rises to centre and stays there. (Bit like viagra for coolant )

Oh, no leaks either, the press fit and clip fittings are quite good, just take some pushing together .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 29th Nov 2011 11:51pm. Edited 1 time in total

Nice work Joe, I'll give you a shout when mine needs changed

Damn, needle dropping to left on downhill runs again Not getting past 12 o'clock though on the hot side. I'll check coolant level first, but don't fancy doing this job again  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe90, did you solve the temp gauge needle dropping on downhill runs?. I have noticed that i am now suffering from this 'phenomenon'. Started before xmas whilst driving thorugh Lingfield -2.
Returing back from the UK on Fri every downhill i had a temp drop. Checked levels all appear to be ok.
Mechanic said it's a software problem!!!!!!

No, have been watching it, and with warmer temperatures of late it has been less of a problem. With the cold snap coming I guess I will see more of the same. Never goes over 12 o'clock, so I don't think it is the thermostat, or if it is stuck open ther rest of the cooling system is doing its job by working as it should.

Car takes a good 10 miles on a cold morning to get up to temperature, if not more, but I also know my FBH is not working (fuel pump) at the moment so that is a contributing factor. Been to lazy to get out there and sort it. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks, it's a strange one. My FBH is working, it does take a little longer to heat up. The fluctuation seems to be getting more frequent and was only when travelling down hill. That being said i did a short drive last night, needle to normal, left the car running [whlst checking the horses] came out to find the needle at 1/4 position - it then took 10km to come back up. This morning -4 a little longer to heat up but steady at the mid-point for the rest of the journey......

Agreed my journey to work today in 0 degrees, warmed up to 12 o'clock as normal by @ 10 miles of A road, steady on the motorway, then dropped on a long downhill run on the motorway, then in traffic for 20 minutes stayed at @ 10 o'clock. Damned efficient engine this TD6 ....... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I will be having it looked at in the near future - if any discoveries are made i will let you know......Thanks

Had plenty of heat in the cabin though, no problems there.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Worth checking the other thermostat above the EGR cooler on the front of the engine.

Richcl wrote:

Worth checking the other thermostat above the EGR cooler on the front of the engine.

???????  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

...next to the falange... ... - .- -.




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workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

I'm not joking, have a look above the EGR cooler, you'll find one there, about £30 if I remember rightly.
Also another one inside the transmission cooler.

@Joe - also had cabin heat.

@ Stan & Richcl - so there are 3 thermostats in total?.

Rgds

My car suffered from very similar symptoms to the OP, highlighted over the recent cold spell, struggling to get beyond the quarter level on the gauge . Using the hidden menu the car was struggling to achieve 80c (via hidden menu) despite been driven for an hour. On very cold days it was struggling to heat the cabin! I referred the issue to the servicing dealer but their vague comments and could be this or that left me with no confidence.

As well as research the issue on this forum I also explored the BMW forums which flagged up similar issues, often highlighting the egr thermostat problems and how to test by seeing if you can blow through when cold.. I today followed this how to, replacing the main thermostat, testing and replacing the egr thermostat too. It was a tedious job, the VC fan proving the most difficult aspect on the whole job.

I have out everything back together and after a test run the car was up around 90c and holding the halfway marker on the gauge, regardless of gradient or speed.

It's not all sorted as the car now has a thrumming noise, rumble that is only apparent at 3,000 rpm or above. I thought it was something fouling the radiator cowling but that seemed ok, I thought it maybe the actual viscous fan causing a problem, it went back on too easy but it seems ok and on straight. Performance seems normal, wondered if it was the intercooler or turbo pipe not fitted, they seemed to go back ok and I will have to strip it down again to investigate.

Some feedback for others attempting this job is to go with an original part, I went with a euro car parts one and the fit of the radiator pipe was not good and I kicked myself for skimping. I sourced the egr thermostat from German and Swedish, after them originally telling me it was a dealer only part, I used the BMW part number and got the correct OEM Behr for 23+vat from them.
Also make sure you have a decent 1/4" socket set to get to the fiddly bolts.