Maybe it's just me but I don't know why you'd want to lower it permanently in such a way, the Range Rover does not look good as a 'low rider'.

When parked up, Access height is perfectly low enough to 'look cool' as the kids say.  Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Yes I would be happy with access height permanently

Why not set it in access height and then lock it. Go for a little drive and see how that feels. It will probably override the lock when the speed increases too much but still.

Also ask Cam-Tech-Craig, he has lowered his FFRR and has been driving with it for quite some time now I believe. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I have tried driving with it on access mode but the bloody thing goes up when u do 25 plus. If u are reading this post Craig can u help?

NO IDEA why you buy a command position Range Rover and then want to drive it about in access height. Seems daft to me.

Different strokes for different folks, Gaz.
I can not understand how someone can buy a RR and never use it off road... But that is just me. Whatever wiggles your willy.

Tallsaj, you really do NOT want to drive around at access height for several reasons:
- you need enough suspension travel to take up road imperfections (never mind the comfort!). Imagine hitting a large pothole at speed. First, the vehicle drops as you enter the hole and when the tire hits the other side of the pothole, the tire, wheel, and suspension are launched upwards violently while the car itself is still traveling downward. And there is no room (suspension travel) for the spring/damper to slow the upwards velocity of the wheel/suspension. This is where things break.
- even worse, in the same scenario as above - even if you do not brake anything the tire will not be in contact with the road surface for a stretch after the pothole. This means that this tire will do nothing to aid your controlling the vehicle till it is back on the road surface. If this is the outside front wheel in a corner, you will very quickly find yourself going straight rather than around the corner and if it is the outside rear wheel, you'll probably be looking in the direction of travel through a side window rather than the windshield. These are both things you probably would not want to do in a 2T RR even if your driving is on par with Sebastian Vettel or Lewis Hamilton.

Lowering is OK in moderation, but anything near access height should be left for mall parking lots or similar. There are very real reasons why LR limited the speed at which you can drive in access.

As for choosing a diagnostic tool, I posted this a while back. I hope this helps clear up what some of the differences are. It is relatively long, but there is no shorter way to explain the various systems. Btw, the IIDTool has been out for nearly 2 years now. And I can say with reasonable security that our customer service is far above other diagnostic tool manufacturers.

SteveMfr wrote:

Choosing a diagnostic system is not always easy. I posted some background info in a thread similar to this on another forum a while back. I tried to keep it objective - if you want complete objectivity do not read the '*explanation...' at the end of the post
HTH in deciding what is best for you.


There does not seem to be much clarity on the functions of a diagnostic system and what to expect when you use one. Here's a short explanation (EDIT: ok long...)

First, there are four basic types of functions that a diagnostic system can have:
- fault code reading and clearing
- live values and component manipulation (to check operation) or executing service routines (such as for the EPB)
- Editing the car's configuration files (CCF)
- Initializing, calibrating, or programing new components

Then you have to separate different types of faults or DTCs (Diagnostic trouble codes):
- generic OBD codes: these are all the emissions related codes that come from the drivetrain (motor and transmission). These are standardized across all manufacturers so that they can be read all over the world at emissions testing stations. There are OBD readers starting at £25 that do a fine job of reading these. Some even manage to clear fault codes.
- manufacturer specific codes: all the rest of the systems on the vehicle. In a Hyundai that is probably not too much, but in a modern LR it is quite a bit - and many items such as the EAS, ABS, DSC, etc. are vital for vehicle operation as well. These can only be read by manufacturer specific code readers.

You can also separate the diagnostic systems into different categories:

- generic code readers: only emissions related OBD codes. Start at ~£25. Some of the more expensive ones may include live values (engine/trans only) and the non-generic ability to clear SRS faults (turn off airbag light) which makes them attractive for small, independent repair facilities.
- manufacturer specific fault code readers: can only read and clear faults. Shows no live values, allows no manual component activation/testing, no vehicle programming, etc. The only 'pure' fault code read/clear device for LR vehicles is the Blackbox FCR.
- manufacturer specific diagnostic systems more for personal than professional use: allow some or all of the functions of a full diagnostic system: live values, manual component activation/testing, vehicle programming, etc. Depending on the cost, these may or may not be locked to one vehicle VIN and have increasingly more functionality with increasing price (we went a slightly different direction to try to reverse this trend for the IIDTool - see below*). These start at the low end with the RoverAllComms (only early RR L322) and Hawkeye, and go through our IIDTool and the Blackbox Faultmate. The latter 2 are VIN locked.
- professional diagnostic systems: these include the OEM LR IDS/SDD, Autologic, Blackbox Faultmate, and IIDTool Pro (coming end of 1st quarter 2013)

Choosing the right system requires spending a bit of time looking at all of the relevant information. If you do not want to do any CCF editing and a a fair bit of basic maintenance on several LR's, the BBS FCR or Hawkeye might be the way to go (but be aware that the functions offered are quite basic - for instance the Hawkey can not do an EAS calibration if you replace a height sensor). If you want to do more but only on a few vehicles (say 1-3), you'll have to look into what the BBS Faultmate or IIDTool have to offer. If you have a club (or for an independent service facility) you can look into one of the professional systems.


*Explanation on the IIDTool pricing: We specifically looked to partner with a large retailer in order to be able to sell larger volumes and keep the price very competitive. In our case this worked out well with Britpart as our distribution partner. We also used the vehicle as an 'interface' to keep hardware costs low (thus Integrated Interface Diagnostic Tool). Essentially, the IIDTool provides similar functionality to diagnostic systems costing 3-4x as much.

 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Gazellio @ Prestige Cars wrote:

NO IDEA why you buy a command position Range Rover and then want to drive it about in access height. Seems daft to me.

. . . mmmm ^ As above !

One of the RR's biggest plus points - going back to 1970 - ride quality !

Ruin it - WHY ?

 Where do you go after one of these . . . ?

stan wrote:

by the time you've paid someone to do it, you might as well buy a IIDTool and change the settings yourself and if you dont like them you can change back..and theres other bits you can configure..

Mr. Blonde, contact the team at Gap Diagnostics and they can give you the complete rundown. I'm pretty sure the IID can do the lowering since the Faultmate can do it as well. It is basically entering new values for that position (access height) for all the corners. In principles you can lower it onto the bump stops (that is where it sits in transport mode if I remember correctly).

Good luck  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

you can change just the access height on yours mr B, after 2006 all the height modes would be changed with the one adjustment.. ... - .- -.




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Thanks Stan
Any idea on how low, as the old dragon, oooops I mean mother-in-law in less than 5ft, and about as agile as a stricken tanker at sea

Would it being parked up in access mode (I always use it as was once told it shuts down completely this way) for days at a time at a lower height damage anything such as the airbags etc?

do it bit by bit until you get the most comfortable height..leaving it in access for a while should be ok. ... - .- -.




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workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

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Thanks (again) Stan. Don't know what I'd do without you sometimes...

And I'm assuming its easy to use? I'm one of those guys who struggles to set up a new DVD player

Very easy to use; the BT more so, and more useful.

The suspension calibration function is not the most "slick" system, but GAP are working on that.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver