After uncovering the holy grail, my Fein Multimaster had to do the next job.The finished cut is visible here:

Thanks for the write up, helped a lot.
We did find there isn't a need to cut the front flap panel, as you can remove it. Just move the vent pipes (unscrew them from the outer ends to give more access). Then move them forward. This is the LH screw to remove.

I just completed putting in a new blower motor in my 2009 L322, left hand drive US version. Just want to let everyone know you don’t have to cut any part of the Dash (or anything for that matter) at all. There is plenty of room to get the new motor in and out. It really wasn’t that bad, just take your time and label all the screws in baggies. One tip, for the vent tube that goes towards the passenger window, there’s an accessible torx screw to remove in the middle of the vent tube. Take your torx screwdriver and find the head of the screw with your fingers. Removing that securing screw allows you to completely move that vent out of the way giving you plenty of room. You do need to remove the CD Changer to get to that screw. The thing that gave me the most trouble was removing the metal rod from the flap (the above poster mentions), then getting it back on. I did damage the part that secures it but it should still function fine. Many thank to those who contributed to this thread - you all saved me a ton of money!

Last edited by MrSteed on 7th Nov 2018 1:39am. Edited 1 time in total

MrSteed,

You say you don’t need to cur anything at. Can you elaborate on this? I have a 2008 TDV8 with the air vents completely covering the blower area. How have you avoided cutting anything?

Many thanks in advance

MrChubba

Mine looks a bit different to yours, I don’t seem to have the space you have at the bottom of the plastic surround. So, I think I need to cut despite removing the flapper assembly

Can you change the blower from the top on a 2010 RR full size? Mine looks different than these pics here.

Ok got old one out and only thing i had to cut was the top middle where that siler nutplate is. But i honestly still dont see how you can get new one in without jacking it uo.

So I’ve got an 08. Not quite as big a hole as the 09, but I can copy that shape and trim.

I am having a terrible time getting that 6 way flapper out. That rod won’t release and the vent tube to the driver’s side is blocking the flapper from rotating up. On lhd cars there seems to be less play in that driver’s side tube. Any tips? Do I need to take apart all the stuff around the steering wheel to get access to that rod from the side? I am dubious it will help.

Edit: ok , I got it by twisting it up and to the right as shown. You want to get the metal rod outside of that black tab. You will need to trim the access hole wider first. After that put it back down to its normal position and reach in and pop the rod up and to the left to remove it.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Really regret selling my old L322 so thought it would be a good idea to buy another one. Less than a week into ownership the heater blower started making a noise so after much faffing about trying to get the clam shell like baffles to stay open with the fan off so I could check it for debris through the filter housing, it seems the fan is starting to die. Thought I would be better to change it before it gets worse and starts taking fuses out with it, and how hard can it be to change a heater fan?

Really helpful information here so wanted to say a big thank you.

Couple of bits which might be helpful for somebody:

I had a nightmare removing the drivers side screw on the baffle plate. I found that by cable tying the vent pipework forward and using a smaller Torx bit (T15 I think) I could get enough of an angle on the screw to get it out. Getting it back in wasn't as bad as I expected either.

The old fan was a nightmare to get out as the wiring harness tray was in the way. The new fan had a slightly smaller diameter, maybe 5mm less, so went back in surprisingly easily.

So, I have joined the club and replaced my blower with no cutting at all (although some cutting is needed on vehicles pre 2009).

Many thanks to this thread and Norman's for the guidance and pictures beforehand.

Step by step guide with lots and lots and lots of photos, including a nifty trick for making the removal and fitment of the adjuster rod a 5-second job, on the way soon. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi Gary

I have this job on the list, looking forward to your guide - it looks a bit daunting still.

Regards,

Kevin Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Looking forward to seeing the write up Gary! Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Gary, remind me of the symptoms you were getting please ðŸ™� Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Squeaking (like there was a family of mice) when the fan was running, especially when just starting the car for the day. It was more prominent at temperatures below 10 degrees. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8