Sorry for link to another forum I was just just too lazy...
So here we go with proper post:

Today I opened potentiometer and found the source of the problem. There are holes in the graphite layer, right under the sliders of the potentiometer. Holes are in the High range position, where transfer box is most of the time. Beside that it moves just a bit every time engine starts, so sliders just rub against graphite surface and "eat" it.

rather than linking to another forum , can you post your solution here... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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sorry, had posted the link, my english was not able to read the rules.... , but the Information in this link is old and well known...., it is to clean the poti. L405 SDV8 2017 + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

It is not enough to clean the potentiometer as it is not really dirty. You have to modify sliding pins in the potentiometer. If you look the picture you will see where is a problem ( and sollution )

not being mechanically minded can you arrow the 5 sliders on the picture that need bending as looking at the picture i have no idea.

On this pictuere you can see sliders,

Click image to enlarge

Thanks, not sure if im willing to try as can be a little heavy handed dont want to break anything!

You should try and get a few, repair and sell I would be willing to try one

I suspect I may have this problem. Has anyone tried something like this to repair the track:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conductive-adhesives/3888673/

If anyone has a broken motor/potentiometer they don't need I'll happily give it a try and document for the forum.

Ian

Hi Gang,

Same problem so I used Povh's technique (slightly bended the connectors outwards) and it all works fine now.

It took 2 to 3 hours all in, but well worth it considering the price of the whole replacement unit.

Note that I only took the motor's outer plate off (6 screws) and then the potentiometer itself (one circlip off then unplug it).

The longest part it to open and close it properly (I used a dremel and a soldering iron)

All fitted back and work 100% (for now...)

Cheers for sharing this great trick Povh! l=Oo\________/oO=l l:OolΞΞΞΞΞΞΞloO:l

Current
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L SDV8 - 2013 - Indus Silver, on Almond.
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L V8 - 2002 - ex-2003 G4 Challenge Event Vehicle, Stage 3: Australia
RANGE ROVER HSE 4.4L V8 - 2004 - one-of-one Overfinch
RANGE ROVER P38a 4.0L V8 - 1999 - ex-2000 TReK Event Vehicle: South Africa

Previous:
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L TDV8 - 2012 - RANGE ROVER 3.6L TDV8 x3 - RANGE ROVER Td6 x1 - RANGE ROVER Classic 3.5L V8 x1

That's what I did in the end.

Nice to hear that same technique worked for you too guys.
Just for info, mine is still working 100% ( more than 6 months now).

Just been reading this with interest, good info to remember. Just a thought, has anyone had experience of a product called Superslide, its a graphite based lube used by Piano techs. I recall reading it being used to repair pots on vintage radios. It is painted on and dries, the more coats the less resistance,...
http://www.heckscher.co.uk/superslide-blac...ion-parts/ 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Thanks for the info on this issue. I pulled the potentiometer out yesterday, split it and tweaked the pins/re-melted the soldered joints and rejoined the two halves. High low now working perfectly.

This is definitely a four spanner job though!

Dont fancy doing another do you?

I'd be happy to. Frankly it's pretty simple once you get your head round it!