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Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Creaky suspension?

Over the last few days, the ffrr is making all kinds of creaky noises. It seems like it's coming from the front. Noticeable when slowing to a halt, steering whilst at a crawl and over speed bumps. It's a combination of creaking and knocking. Any ideas what it could be folks? 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

9th Feb 2010 7:16pm

Mapmuppet

Member Since: 03 Sep 2008
Location: Guildford
Posts: 153

Noddy, does it sound like she's running on leaf springs ?

If so I had the same problem and I think the local 'Stealer' changed the front bushes ( but I'll check ). If it sounds more steering rack related and occurs at low speeds I have the same problem, which I'm trying to ressolve 2005 Audi A8 W12
1978 Mercedes 450 SEL 6.9
1986 Mercedes 420 SL 4.2

9th Feb 2010 9:19pm

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Yeah, thats probably the best analogy - where are these front bushes located? I'm doing the front brakes this weekend so I'll do the lot together. 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

10th Feb 2010 9:45am

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

It might be the start of the front ball joints failing. They arent too expensive to replace, I had them done at an independant, I think £150 per side inc parts & labour should cover it. Mine failed within 6 months of each other, so it may be worth having both sides done if it does turn out to be this.

If it turns out the noise is coming from the rear (which tends to be more of a creaking sound) then it's more than likely worn hub bushes.

This was stolen in a midnight raid from rr.net

Removal:

Wheel off:

Click image to enlarge

The looking from the front, the one which I needed to replace was the middle ball joint....

Click image to enlarge

but before all that, you need to disconnect the air suspension sensor. This just bolts to the top of the arm:

Click image to enlarge

Its a 10mm nut and on the other side which the sensor arm is on its a slotted section for a 10mm spanner to sit into. Once removed, the EAS system doesn't seem to mind you messing around with the arm in order to tuck it out of the way sensibly, so dont worry too much about keeping it in exactly the position it was removed from.

Now its time to business. Remove the nut from the top of the ball joint. Its a 21mm nut, but your unlikely to get a socket into the gap between the nut and the CV joint on the hub. So I used an adjustable ring spanner thingie. It was tight to crack open and unthread. I needed an extended on the handle of the spanner in order to get it undone.

Click image to enlarge

Now undone, but as with any tapered seat ball joint, it was going no where fast. So i then undid the other end of the arm which attaches to the chassis. Again, 21mm bolt head and nut. Easy to undo and remove. Once the bolt was pulled out, i just levered the arm out of the chassis with screwdrivers and spanners so it hung in mid air.

I then set about attacking the rubber seal of the ball joint so that i could get a large open ended spanner across the neck of the ball joint. I used a screw driver to break off the clip for the rubber and to beak/split the rubber boot to get easy access with the end of the spanner.

With the spanner in place around the neck of the ball joint, I put the other end on the top of the jack and pumped up the jack so that the spanner put some leverage on the taper seat to split it open.... you can see how much force by the bend in the spanner:

Click image to enlarge

A few very heavy taps with a hammer on the hub casting had little effect, so i figured i waould just leave it under pressure overnight with a liberal amount of penetrating spray and hope it would pop over night. Just as I was spraying joint ... *PING* , the ball joint dropped out. :clap:

Refitment:

Put the ball joint in loosely first and hold it in place with a few turns on the nut:

Click image to enlarge

Then put the chassis end into place and slot the bolt back through and tighten up the nut.

Click image to enlarge

Put the jack under the ball joint end and lift up the ball joint so that it takes a decent weight of the hub etc. This stops the ball joint from spinning round when you tighten the nut back up...

Click image to enlarge

Re-attach the height sensor arm, put the wheel back on and your done.

10th Feb 2010 10:12am

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Cheers for that Dan.
Did you tighten the bolt in the chassis end when the car was down on the floor? If you tighten it up whilst hanging like that, it twists the bush when you lower it (the bolt pulls tight on the metal sleeve inside the bush). I learnt this many years ago when I worked in the motor trade. Leads to premature failure of the bush 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

10th Feb 2010 10:21am

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

I copied that info from rr.net....

Good to know though, I definately wouldnt have known that.

10th Feb 2010 11:02am

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Its easily remedied mate- just undo the bolt slightly whilst its on the floor and re-tighten it. 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

12th Feb 2010 12:44pm

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

The strangest thing- it's not doing it now! Quiet as a mouse! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

15th Feb 2010 6:57pm

RRCanuck

Member Since: 23 Dec 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 172

2010 Range Rover Supercharged Supercharged Santorini Black

Did you do anything noddy? Or did it go away on its own?? My creaking seems to be in the rear and only audible with the window down. Sounds like a rusty bed spring!! Been doing it about a week now.

mike.

21st Feb 2010 10:56pm

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Nothing mate- just stopped creaking! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

27th Feb 2010 7:51pm

GKP

Member Since: 01 Aug 2009
Location: Hants
Posts: 75

2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Cairns Blue

Nine times out of ten the creaking from the rear suspension is caused by a failing bush in the upper wishbone (pictured and arrowed below). They're not expensive to buy - under £20 - but can be a pain to do at home if you don't have the correct insertion tool. I just remove the whole hub and press the bush in and out with a hydraulic press, but a dealer would do it in situ, so expect to be billed for about an hour's labour.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Not sure you should be reading this bit.

28th Feb 2010 7:09pm

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

I've done similar jobs on trucks with a socket and a G clamp in the past! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

1st Mar 2010 1:02am

RRCanuck

Member Since: 23 Dec 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 172

Nice info boys Sounds like the culprit.

Cheers,

Mike.

1st Mar 2010 6:44am

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Well, just took the car for MOT and it failed - ball joints!

Going to get the replacements from Euro Car Parts later and fit them in the week. At least I've found where the knocking sound is coming from now 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

1st Mar 2010 11:16am

Andy

Member Since: 24 Feb 2009
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 2926

Euro Car Parts wanted £50 a side plus vat for the arms, so I went to Island 4X4 - £35 each inc vat delivered 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

2nd Mar 2010 9:32am

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