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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
FFRR '02 Rear Suspension Dismantle & Rebuild

Been gathering parts and bits and pieces for this for a while, and some leave from work has provided me with the opportunity to dismantle my rear suspension and replace all the bushes, tie rods and links. Airbags and dampers are OK, but these are the easier items to remove!

At this point a big shout out to Dan Roberts at Duckworths for his patience and support with parts.

Much inspiration came from member fisha Thumbs Up who already tackled the hub bushes with this howto :
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post140711.html#140711, so I'll refer you to that for hub bushes extraction and replacement.

I'll do costs when done, would love to know how much from stealers ?

Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html

I am hoping to resolve:

1. Clonking at the rear
2. MOT advisories on top outer bush and subframe bush
3. Excessive tyre wear on outer edge
4. See if the FBH Fuel pump works
5. Something to do other than fannying about with the A/V Wink

This will be a work in progress, so keep checking back, and please offer advice and tips as I go along Smile

Tools

Acme Wood Ramps (optional)
Various Wood blocks
3/4 Axle stands
2 jacks (trolley and bottle will do)
Inspection Lamp
16" Breaker bar or similar with extensions (trampoline legs! or old old ring spanner)
I use both 1/4" and 1/2" sets of sockets and ratchets
Ratchet Socket spanners
Sockets mm: 8,13,15,17,18,21(long and stubby),22
Sockets in: 13/16 (equals 21mm), 11/16 (optional)
Spanners mm: 12 (open), 18 (open & ring), 21 (open & ring)
Socket extension bars, short, long and UJ
Allen Key mm: 4
Hammers: Hide/Rubber, Clump
Screwdrivers: flat bladed (mainly for cleaning out dirt and rust)
Hacksaw (for reference marks, also could use permanent marker, and for destroying tie rod nuts)
Wire brush
Bush Pulling/Pushing Kit!
An assistant (optional!)

Sundries

WD40
Green Sandpaper
Gunk (for degreasing silencer)
Kurust
Hammerite
HT Paint (3 x cans of Halfords best needed for good cover on exhaust)
Superglue
Duct tape
Length of rope
Kneeling/Prayer Mat Smile
Coffee, Tea, Nicotine and Beer for afterwards

Time: X days !! (It's a big job, so leave plenty of time, and remember there IS more to life than a Range Rover!) Thumbs Up

I'll use a combination of Rave images/drawings and my own photos to assist with explanation on what is required.

Safety First: Never rely on a jack to support the weight of the car, use axle stands, and an extra one on the subframe as backup. Chock the front wheels, Leave car in Park with handbrake on. Probably not a good idea to run the engine when up on stands.

Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html


Last edited by Joe90 on 25th Mar 2013 2:02pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #178256 18th Mar 2013 9:17pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 1

1. Get the car in the air.

Using my Acme wooden ramps and 3 tonne per corner axle stands I was able to gain a good 2ft in the air at off road height. This made working on and under the car much easier. Took a good old rev of the engine, in reverse, to get the car up on all four ramps at the same time. It is a 1 in 3 slope.



2. Remove the exhaust

This is recommended for replacing the subframe bushes and for removing the upper suspension arm.

Simple instructions from Rave: undo two nuts (15mm) holding exhaust to manifold. Yes, if you can get a spanner onto the nuts and turn the things! There appears to be lots of space up there, that is until you try to undo and remove these two nuts. Eventually got them undone. Allow time for this, walk away a bit, have a cup of tea.



Centre fixing is a 17mm bolt. Undo it, push the exhaust out of the way and refit it, can't lose it or misplace it that way.



Eight nuts (13mm) holding the silencer on to fixed bolts. Some will be seized, and the slightest pressure will see you with a nut and some thread in the end of your socket. I scored 5 out of 8. Hoping I can slip some new bolts into position to retighten, save having to buy new mountings.



Rave suggests an assistant at this point, no-one about to help so gently dropped it down on blocks of wood bit by bit, then dragged it out from underneath towards the front of the car. This will get a derust, Kurust and HT paint treatment before it goes back on Smile



That got me to lunchtime! See all the space at the back now the exhaust is out of the way! (It looks a little lop-sided, but it is all square, odd camera angle!)



3. Dismantling (Started on LH rear)

Following instructions in Rave, it seemed to make sense to remove the lower suspension arm first. Got to work with the wire brush and then a liberal spraying of WD40 to help things along.

Undid the two allen key ( 4mm) fixings for the brake pipe (this is useful to do at this stage), and the one allen key (4mm) supporting the handbrake. Also unclipped the brake pad sensor cable.



Undid the 13mm nut and bolt holding the height sensor to the lower arm.



Undid the 18mm nuts holding the anti roll bar link in place. The flat on the joint side is also 18mm. These b.u.g.g.e.r.s are tight and difficult to get at. For the one on the lower arm I was able to get a ratchet and socket on the nut, and found the best position for the spanner to be tucked inside the brake pipe against the upper arm. The one on the anti roll bar was a bit more tricky, I used a socket extension to attack the nut from behind the arm (centre of the car) and managed to wedge the spanner inside the brake cable. As soon as you start to get loose, keeping the spanner on the flat is a bit hit and miss. There is a washer on the lower link only. Rave believes it is important to note the position of the washer, it is hardened. fortunately, it will have the marks of the "flat" on it.





Now to depressurise the suspension. Support the lower arm with a jack! Read my IID manual, clambered up into the car (long way up for me!) and switched on the ignition, resisting the temptation to start the car to see what it sounded like without the exhaust on! Now this is where I made a bit of a cockup: Adjust left rear corner only adjusted heights so I then went into Deflate All Corners, damn the whole car started to drop! I put my foot on the brake as the car dropped to its bump stops all round. This tipped the front right down and the back up in the air. Fortunately all the jacks held, but had to pump up the safety jack on the subframe to get purchase again. Added some support to the other side too. Off to review IID documentation to see how to depressurise one corner again.

Undid the screw (8 mm) that secures the airbag spigot. That is it on the left of the image



Next job was to remove the bolt holding the shock absorber in place. Tight! This is a 21mm nut and bolt, same size as a standard spark plug socket. Only required one section of trampoline leg on my 16" breaker bar to get it moving! Lovely and clean and new on the inside. I'll be re-using this nut and bolt.



Finally for day 1 (it was past 6pm) I removed the lower outer bush nut and bolt (22mm nut, 21 mm bolt). Tight again, required two sections of trampoline leg to get it going. Helps to have some short extensions to get outside the brake disc. Tapped the bolt out with an old drill bit.



Tidy up, supper and cup of tea!

Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #178805 21st Mar 2013 10:11am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 2

Got an earlier start today, out there by 0830 Wink

1. Removing Lower Arm

First job, get the bolts out of the lower arm nearest the diff. The bolt is an (18mm) and the nut a (21mm). Access pretty good for these. I find things work best if I get the whole thing turning, then start to undo the nut.



(Don't do it this way! I advise remove the air spring first as shown in Rave, as one of the first things you do)

Left the bolts in place to drop the outer end down to release the air spring spigot. everything is pointing in the wrong direction for this to happen easily, you just have to keep pushing the lower arm down. I used a short extension to tap the spigot (great word, spigot) out of the lower arm from underneath. Eventually, lower arm swinging free of the air spring.



Jiggled and wiggled the bolts out and was presented with the lower arm. Only surface rust, with the plastic coating mostly worn away. Odd as the RHS is still all covered ? This will get the wirebrush, kurust and hammerite treatment.

Upper side

Click image to enlarge


Lower side


The larger rearward bush was in fairly good nick, no movement with a long bar in the hole. The forward bush looked to be in a right old state:





and offered some movement with a long bar in the hole. Not sure what the gunge is, grease from inside the bush?

2. Removing Upper Arm


Started on the outer bush on the hub. Duly marked reference marks on the hub and the bolt for refit. First time I needed to apply upward pressure. I placed some blocks of wood between the rubber bump stop on the upper arm and the body where the bump stop hits. Take care not to foul the brake line.



Again, 21mm nut and 18mm bolt, but this time the fancy eccentric one. The bolt end ain't so good. The 18mm socket span when I applied load, so I banged an 11/16th onto it, which held. The nut took the breaker bar and two trampoline legs to get it going. I bashed out the bolt and replaced it with an old drill bit just to hold everything together.

Rave suggests removing the spring clip at the top of the air spring. This would allow the air spring to fall out, given it had been released from the lower arm. Decided to remove the air spring, which was a cinch when compared to the front end. A little bit of air left over in the bag on releasing the connector (12mm open ended spanner needed), a wiggle on the air bag and out it came. This gave me a bit more working space. Also decided to remove the damper (3 x 17mm nuts). Rave instructions, "lift" carpet, means fight and struggle with carpet, side covers, etc. - made that much more difficult by being 3ft higher in the air than normal. I also took out the height sensor, breaking one of the multiplug clips in the process. Also discovered that the height sensor connector to the lower arm was broken Sad May be able to glue this? was working OK)

I now had the best access I was going to get to the inner bolts on the upper arm, without dropping the subframe. Having a selection of ratchets and extension bars is vital. My old ratchet was the perfect fit for the forward bush bolt. I was just able to get the breaker bar on the other end in a vertical position. Again 21mm nut, 18mm bolt, but you might need a short socket on the forward bush nut.And then one flat at a time started working the nut off. The bolt went loose fairly quickly, but the nut stayed tight to the end of the thread Sad. Now for the rearward bush bolt. Rave wanted me to drop the subframe by 75mm to gain access, but here is a top tip for avoiding that stage.

Use a socket with a UJ connection and a short extension. Slide these into position, and start turning, the short extension will eventually wind itself up and rest against the body, allowing you to undo the nut, flat by flat.....


(Also see air bag connector nicely wrapped up!)

Eventually was able to release the upper arm from its confines. (Putting back together will be fun, as tightening up has to be done at standard ride height!)

Click image to enlarge


In better condition than the lower arm....
Click image to enlarge


The inner bushes were in the same state as the lower arm forward bush, but no play....
Click image to enlarge


And one for Mick, an Eccentric Hole Smile


I did stop for lunch at some point, and spent the rest of the afternoon (after a break for rain) derusting and kurusting.

I discovered one of the possible reasons for the clonking/tyre wear. The top bush on the hub was all wobbly. You could move the inner part around with your finger! The new bush just doesn't move.



Tea and a scone tonight, courtesy of my daughter Smile

Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Last edited by Joe90 on 24th Mar 2013 1:58am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #178806 21st Mar 2013 10:12am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 3

Had a few other real world things to do today so not a great deal done, but time consumed by problem ball joint!

1.Acme Bush Puller?

Well no. I made up my own bush pulling kit from an old car jack and some bits of pipe and sockets for sleeves.



But it just wasn't man enough for the job, so I shelled out for a proper bush pulling kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400430820571?ssP...1423.l2648
This is worth the money if you are DIYing a lot

2. More derusting

Tiresome, tedious but necessary, have a good clean around on the parts of the subframe you can get at and scrub with wire brush and green sandpaper if you want, then apply a coat of Kurust.

3. Tie Rod

Restrain ball pin. Yeah, thanks LR. The pin at the end of the ball on the hub end has a 10mm hexagon on the end, when new. When been on the car for 5 - 10 years, a tinsey winsey 10mm ring spanner will just go round and around.



Nothing for it but to destroy the nut (21mm open ended and ring spanner needed here). Hacksaw out, hammer and cold chisel at the ready. I cut a diagonal all the way round, and with a tap from the hammer and cold chisel the nut started moving. Restrained the ball pin with some mole grips and away we went.

Click image to enlarge


At the other end, things didn't get much better. The 18mm eccentric bolt is on the rearward side, and this span round with an 18mm socket on it.



So needed to use the 21mm ring spanner on the other end.
Not much leverage with just a spanner, so used one of my old, old large ring spanners to get extra pull.

Click image to enlarge


Fortunately bolt stayed put and nut started moving.

Tie rod left in place for now, to hold hub in position.

Lunch

5. Painting

Applied first coat of HT paint to the exhaust, makes it look much better

Applied Kurust to subframe I could get to:



Applied coat of Hammerite "hammered" Black to upper and lower arms and damper.



Tea Smile

Bushes tomorrow Smile Thumbs Up

Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #178808 21st Mar 2013 10:13am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 4

Bush pressing kit arrived today, so set to work on pressing out and replacing all the bushes on the hub, the arms and the subframe. It is a lot bigger than the ebay picture conveys, ( I put a standard Stanley Philips screwdriver in shot to give scale) case is @ 48cm wide by 40cm deep, and weighs @ 40lbs. As impressed as fisha was - the mutts nuts!!

Click image to enlarge


It helps to have the new bushes available, and also a digital caliper vernier guage, to get the sleeve sizes right.

It was also spitting with rain, so mostly kept me trapped inside the confines of an overflowing garage!

1. Second Coat of HT Paint to Exhaust

Image to follow

2. Hammerite to the subframe



3. Hub Bushes
See fisha's post for hub bushes, much the same as me.

Sleeve sizes for me:

Upper:
M14 Rod (21 mm nuts) - as for all other bushes except the one below
Pressing out: Inner 44 mm Outer 56 mm

Lower:
M16 Rod (23 mm nuts)
Pressing out: Inner 52 mm Outer 70 mm

These bushes were much easier to press out than I expected. Tighten up, one loud crack, then slowly eased out without too much of a fight. Found that the lower bush was also wobbly.

Press kit in action on top hub bush:


Lunch: Curry MustGos

4. Upper Arm Bushes

These chaps required a bit of reverse thinking, as they needed to be pushed out rather than pulled, using the other bush housing as a stop point. However, the press kit didn't come with a short cap, so had to use the largest sleeve round the wrong way to push against.




Sleeve sizes for me:

Pressing out: Inner 44 mm

Now these bushes refused to budge, not being nice steel ones, some kind of alloy casing which had oxidised, so much so that I started to widen the gap and the orientation between the two bush housings.

On the basis that if it went in, it will come out! Cold chisel and hammer,





to work around the outer edge, then all of a sudden....crack, and the bush popped out about 1cm. Tightened up again, attack with cold chisel, crack, and popped out some more, eventually wound it out.

The other side wouldn't budge with the cold chisel approach, but a sound thwack with the hide mallet on the outside of the housing and crack, out popped the bush 1cm. Repeat as before!





No wobble on these bushes.

As previously mentioned, the inner bushes need to be tightened back up at standard height setting. A rough measure from the top of the upper arm in front of the bump stop to the curve at the top of the inner wing is @ 13.5 inches. Close enough is good enough!

5. Lower Arm Bushes

Sleeve sizes for me:

Forward
Pressing out: Inner 50 mm Outer 54 mm

This one needed an inner sleeve the same size as the bush itself, because the bush had such a thin edge to it. The bush just came out slowly and surely, no loud cracks this time. But I then had to press out the sleeve with another sleeve!



No wobble on this bush.

This is as far as I managed to get today. Everything is taking a lot longer than I expected, but always does the first time you do something. Hopefully I can do some catching up tomorrow and over the weekend Learnt I should wait until I have replaced the bushes before hammeriting the suspension arms, paint not hardening off quick enough in the cold weather.

Supper & Beer, mmmm


Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Last edited by Joe90 on 21st Mar 2013 11:52pm. Edited 3 times in total

Post #178810 21st Mar 2013 10:14am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 5

1. Finish Removing Lower Arm Bushes

Rearward
Pressing out: Inner 48 mm Outer 58 mm

No struggles or cracks, just heave-ho!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


At last, all the main suspension bushes were out!
Click image to enlarge


Top Tip:

Keep a nut at one end of the press bar, then when you can you can use a socket and ratchet
Click image to enlarge


Heavy rain !

2. Subframe bushes

OK, brought back into service some of the parts from my Acme bush pulling kit, namely the large piece of pipe and the crossbar.

Put the jack under the subframe (on the lower arm mounts),


took the strain, had a good poke about above the subframe to check there was nothing going to be snagged, loosened off the two bush bolts @ 1 inch and started lowering.

Came down nice and gently, then removed the two bolts and lowered in stages until I had a gap of @ 15cm.



Then applied my press kit with pipe (a perfect fit on the underside of the subframe around the bush) and crossbar (cut from old jack). Looks a bit like a stack of saucepans Smile
Click image to enlarge


Sadly the crossbar started to deform under pressure, and without anything else to use about me, I have had to admit defeat for the moment Sad, but will be back on it once I have the right equipment.

Had a think about using the end plate from the forward subframe bush instead, which fitted perfectly over my pipe "sleeve"

but thought better of it.


Lunch

3. Start Rebuilding (hooray!)

Cleaned out all the bush housings and mating faces on the two arms with a sanding wheel then some 400 wet and dry with WD40.

Lower Arm:

Rearward bush eased in slowly and surely, and I got dead centre first time!

Pressing in: Inner 48 mm Outer 58 mm
Click image to enlarge



Forward bush, also went in nicely, had to be aligned square with the weld on the side of the arm, and the centre of the bush had to stick out 6.8mm each side. I could only measure 6.74mm each side with my vernier guage, so guess that will have to do Smile

Pressing in: Inner 54 mm Outer 58 mm
Click image to enlarge



Upper Arm:

These also needed to be aligned correctly, I used the reference marks I made prior to removing the old bushes, a couple of little nicks in the housing with a hacksaw, against the little lobes on the bush.

Pressing in: Inner 52 mm Outer 56 mm



Finally using my new best friend and favourite tool, which has doubtless already paid for itself (The Bush Pressing Kit), I pulled the two ends of the upper arm back into line with each other (hard work).

I'll have to stress the time and patience it takes to remove and fit new bushes, I only managed a quarter turn on the nut at a time, this with a 30" extension on the end. Occasionally, the push/pull was light enough to allow a ratchet. Its great anaerobic exercise and beats pumping iron at the gym! (Not that I go!)


If dry I should have it all back together tomorrow!


Any comments or suggestions need to go in the sister thread for this how to:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17428.html 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Last edited by Joe90 on 22nd Mar 2013 11:32pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #178811 21st Mar 2013 10:14am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 6

1. Hub Bushes Replaced

Straight forward and an easy press for both top and bottom bushes

For top bush, identify the side of the bush with the chamfered edge, you push in this first!



Top Press In: Inner 50 mm Outer 56 mm

Top Bush in place


Fancy washer for eccentric bolt:


Bottom Press In: Inner 50 mm Outer 70 mm ? (forgot to record, will resolve when RHS done)

Bottom Hub Bush in place, showing new circlip:


2. Tie Rod Replaced

My 10 mm spanner (open end) was good enough for most of the nut turning, but finished with an adjustable spanner. The big nut goes tight/solid quite quickly.
Up the other end, lined up reference marks for eccentric bolt and tightened

3. Lower Arm Refitted

It's quite heavy, so locating it single handed is a pita. Best thing to do is locate one bush and get a bolt in halfway, then you can swing the arm up for the other bush mounting and get a bolt in place there to, then tap through, nuts on. Don't tighten at this stage.

4. Anti Roll Bar Link Replaced

Fiddly, getting onto the 18mm flat and holding the spanner in place. You may need a jack under the lower arm to align with the ARB.

5. Air Bag Refitted

The usual fight getting the connector in place and then tightening up. Minimum four hands needed! Never seems to require as much doing up as it does undoing.
I made a bit of a mistake when taking the air bag off, because I allowed the bag to fully extend. Trying to roll the lower part of the bag back over itself is not easy. Then compressing the upper part of the bag to get it to fit in made it look all crumpled. Fingers crossed it sorts itself out when I repressurise.

6. Upper Arm Refitted

As for lower arm, but much lighter. Locate the bushes on the mountings, may take a bit of bashing with the hide mallet from all directions. Don't be tempted to locate it onto the hub bush as you will loose lateral movement. Lining up the rearward bush is tricky as you have to slide the bolt in above the airbag (the difficult end!). My UJ/small extension did its thing again to assist with tightening the nut. I had to do a bit of levering down on the forward bush, take care here as the brake pipes are just above it!

7. Am I Missing Something?

Just noticed that the rear inner wing on both sides has two holes. Should something be fitted here?
 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Last edited by Joe90 on 25th Mar 2013 1:57pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #178812 21st Mar 2013 10:14am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 7

Bloody cold today, snowed on me several times


1. Repairing broken exhaust mountings

On removing the exhaust, I broke two of the threads off on the subframe mountings. These threads are a press fit into the mounting. To fix:

Support subframe and undo bush bolt to remove exhaust mounting. Clean up with wire brush.


Using a hacksaw or grinder, remove any remaining thread to get a flush surface.


Click image to enlarge


Place in suitable vice, and use a cold chisel to bang on the inner part of the press fit.


This should release leaving a nice hole


And you can then use a suitable nut and bolt (put the nut in the gap)


A previous owner had also broken one thread off on the rearward mounting on the towbar, I wasted too much time on this, couldn't drill or tap it out, so left it for now. probably an easy fix with some kind of slide on clip?

2. Fit Hub Nuts and Bolts

Again for the top eccentric bolt, align with reference marks and tighten in place.

3. Refit Damper

Locate three bolts into the body, slot the damper onto the hub and fit nut and bolt. Then fit the three nuts to the top of the damper inside the car.

4. Fiddly Bits

Refit Height Sensor and replace multiplug.
Reattach Hand brake cable, brake line and brake/ABS sensor cable to upper arm (and for the latter to the clips on top of the airbag upper mounting)

5. Tightening up

Using a jack under the lower arm, now raise the suspension to standard ride height (483mm hub centre to wing, or 13.5in from top of upper arm by bump stop to curve in inner wing)

Tighten all nuts and bolts to specificed torque.

6. Refit the Exhaust

This is easier as a two man job, so No.1 son brought into play, to hold up the silencer box (huff & puff Smile ) whilst I fettled the flanges into place. I didn't use any gunge on the flanges (e.g. firegum).

Went back together a treat, and my new exhaust mountings, whilst a bit of a fiddle to get the nuts in the right place, worked well.


7. Moment of Truth!

Time to start the car and repressurise the suspension! Cleared away the centre safety jack, refitted the wheels and placed some blocks under the wheels, just lightly supporting the tyres. Still up on the side jacks at this stage.

The car had been down on its bump stops since Monday (day 1) and not started with exhaust off, I had been leaving the car unlocked with the bonnet released, just in case. Now 7 days on, with temperatures @ 2 degrees or below all week. Key in, turn to ignition, glow plug lights out, very slow turnover, but he started up.

IID Tool in, reactivated EAS, Up comes the front Smile Jumped out of the car to check rear air bags. No pressure ... hmmph. Test Valves, Both rear, gave it a couple of blasts. Big clonk from the left rear so something happened. This was the airbag sorting itself out. Pressure in both now. Smile

Using IID Tool, I increased heights to the rears again, which lifted left rear of the jack, but couldn't get up high enough to lift off the right rear, so then reduced heights to where they were. Stuck a jack under the forward subframe mounting and pumped up to release Right rear jack.

Switched off, locked up and left car in off road overnight. By the morning, still up, no leaks, car started fine, no messages - other than the obligatory how f...ing cold its been Wink, and dropped car down off the ramps. 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Last edited by Joe90 on 25th Mar 2013 1:45pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #178813 21st Mar 2013 10:15am
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Googsy



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Where men are men and sheep are nervous.
Posts: 2946

Ireland 2008 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Java Black

Joe your a legend I kind of follow what your doing as it seems complex but I admire your persistence with such a big project Thumbs Up Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Post #179234 23rd Mar 2013 12:04am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Day 8 and End of Days !!

Took a day of rest today, fed up with spending all day on my knees in the freezing cold.

Been thinking about how to tackle the right hand side, and will most likely do this in stages. In many respects this may be of more interest, as taking the whole lot apart at the same time is quite a task and time consuming. Now I know what can be achieved I will probably tackle the top half in one go, and then the bottom half, and replace the other parts as I go. No need to remove the exhaust, no need to drop the subframe, but will no doubt be easier to depressurise the suspension, especially if removing the lower arm. I will need to get this all done soon, as I have to sort out a four wheel alignment on these new bushes and bolts.

As for the subframe bushes, I need to get some parts made up for my pressing rig, then I should be good to go.

Road Test on work so far:

All clonking gone from rear Smile but now identified clonks up front, looks like new drop links required up front now Wink

TBC 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #179637 25th Mar 2013 1:51pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville

Damn I have an air leak.

Car all down on LHS this morning. Started up, no messages, and compressor brought it back up, goes to Off Road OK.

Left it in Std height and the rear left is dropping by 2cm an hour. Can't hear any hissing at all, and can't feel any air escaping from the RL connector.

We'll be having it apart in the morning!

[EDIT]

Sorted this out, got to the airbag connector and found it needed @ 3 half turns to tighten up properly. Don't know what I was thinking first time round! All tight as a drum Smile 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #179767 26th Mar 2013 6:08pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Saturday: The Rear Right

Took on the Rear Right today with good weather promised for the weekend. Didn't get started until @ midday and finished @ 8pm. Most items appeared to undo much easier on this side as compared with the rear left, or I've got stronger! I took quite a different approach this time, based upon what had been learned from the other side.

Simple jacking this time, just popped the rear right up in the air, axle stands under rear support and towbar for safety. Used IID Tool > Service/Test Valves/Just Rear Right/ (-) to release air from airbag. To be honest, this doesn't work for me, still lots of air in the bag, more on which later. However I do like the disable EAS function, you do at least know the car ain't going to try to be clever and adjust heights once activated.

After jacking and "releasing air" rested the hub/drum on some wood blocks to support the suspension.

Started by releasing the allen screws holding the brake pipe, and brake cable, then released the ABS and pad sensor cables from their clips.

Made reference marks on the upper hub bush mounting and the inner tie rod mounting. Note: this didn't help much when putting the LHS back together as car seems to drive sideways like a crab, hence the need to sort out the RHS and get it off for some wheel alignment - pronto!

Then started working my way around all the nuts and bolts that needed undoing, but leaving in place.

Released the lower ARB nut and cleared the ball joint from the lower arm.

Removed the Height Sensor just to stop it getting damaged.

Removed the spring clip from the top of the airbag and the screw at the bottom, the latter which broke off leaving the thread behind in the spigot ( Evil or Very Mad )

Tie Rod ball joint nut again impossible to remove with spanners so took the hacksaw and cold chisel to it once again to release it.

Started to remove the upper arm, to come across the first problem specific to the RHS rear. The rearward bolt comes out to the rear over the airbag, but on the RHS there are additional clips and tubes in that area. No amount of wiggling the upper arm would create enough space, so it looks like I'll have to drop the subframe a bit to get clearance. This also gives me a chance to have a look at the FBH fuel pump. Think I'll put the upper arm inner bolts back in the other way round so this won't be a problem next time.

Note: undoing the upper arm inner bolts is a tedious flat at a time affair, just not enough space to get a ratchet in there and use it, and these fangled self tightening bolts do their stuff on the way out too!

Lower arm removal had problems because too much air in bag, airbag started to extend without releasing from its mounting locations, as I removed the inner bush bolts, so stopped at this point. Note: the forward inner bush bolt is tricky to knock out as nowhere to knock it from!

Plan tomorrow is to drop all the air out of the system, car onto stands/blocks all round.

Other than that, a good day. 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #181597 7th Apr 2013 12:31am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Sunday - The Rear Right

Nice sunny morning 10 am start!

First job, stands and blocks for all four wheels, then IIDTool>Service/Test>Deflate All. I could here something going on but not loud exhaust valve blast. The three corners still on wheels stayed on the wheels and didn't drop onto the stands? Maybe because I have the height sensor on the rear right disconnected? Will have to have a chat with Patrick/SteveMfr about this?

So resigned to the fact that I will have to deal with a bodge job as per the left side with regard to the airbag, I then set about dropping the subframe to release the rearward inner bush bolt. Release exhaust mountings at rear and support exhaust. Jacks under both legs of the subframe front and back. Undo bush bolts until nearly out. Gently drop each jack. Got about 15mm which was enough to wiggle the bolt out. Banged it all up and back together.

Removed upper arm Smile Derusted with wire brush.

Removed lower arm and derusted.

Removed airbag and connector, undoing slowly to release remaining air, not much but enough to cause problems! I think it might be that the valve closes again after the operation to deflate and what ever air is left is sufficient to cause resistance?

Inner bushes removal. (as per left side) Handy tip though - use science. The upper arm inner bushes are seriously tight in there, and no amount of banging on the housing or chipping away with the cold chisel would shift the first one. Solved this by turning the upper arm by 90 degrees then bashing on the inner leg. Crack! Out pops the bush by a cm. Continued with this method to remove.

Click image to enlarge


Inner bushes replacement (as per left side) A little squirt of WD40 on the bush and inner faces helps to ease the bush in.



Right, fed up of winding things. Wire brush the exposed subframe where I can, then Kurust the two arms and the subframe.

Finish removing the tie rod. Got fed up with the hacksaw, so took my angle grinder to the nut! Scary but it worked. Molegrips and spanner saw the end of the nut.



Kurust dried, so now applied a coat of Black Hammerite to the two arms and the subframe.

Final job today was to remove the two hub bushes. Top one no problem. Bottom one, can't find the end of the circlip, actually can't find the circlip!

Manyana! Anyway had to go in and cook supper. Finished @ 6pm. 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #181760 7th Apr 2013 9:29pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Winchester
Posts: 5277

England 2008 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Bournville
Mon-Tue-Wed Rear Right

MON
A couple of hours this evening after work.

The ends of the circlip on the lower hub bush were tucked away on the inside, and nicely rusted in, so took a cold chisel to the outer edges until I made a breach, then it more or less fell away.

Lower hub bush out, clean up faces and bush housings and upper and lower hub bushes in. (So much easier than the inner arm bushes!)

Reckon I can get a self tapping screw into the bottom of the airspring spigot where the original broke off, so no need for a major fix.

TUE
Another couple of hours saw me putting everything back together, only loosely.

Sequence:

Mark up reference marks on new alignment bolts
Clean up funny washers for alignment bolts
Lower arm, inner bushes and hub connected up (all go in from below)
Fit new drop link to anti roll bar
Squidge down the airbag, re-attach connector (and tighten properly this time, hold pipe in pliers with jaws wrapped in cloth to help prevent tension in the pipe when tightening) and fit spigot to lower arm
Fit Height Sensor
Fit upper arm, inner bushes (fitted bolts back round the wrong way!) and hub (all go in best from above. Space gets tight doing this, take care with brake pipe)
Fit tie rod
Reconnect damper
Jack up underneath lower arm and fit lower part of drop link to lower arm
Locate knob on top of airbag into slot, and fit spring clip
Fit large washer and self tapping screw to airbag spigot, to replace sheared off original
Refit to clips the ABS and brake sensor cables
Refit the brake pipe and handbrake cable to upper arm

No dramas Smile

WED

Raining, but needed to get the car back on the road. So out with the sun parasol!!

Tightening up 12 nuts and bolts and inserting a few allen key screws shouldn't take long, but it does, as for many of them you just can not get a ratchet going so it is turn by turn with a ring or open ended spanner. As darkness fell I was able to put the wheel back on and re-activate the EAS. The airspring popped back into place and all was well, holding height after several hours. Refitting new bushes on the RHS straightened up the steering a fair bit too Wink

Still not quite figured out the correct routine to de-pressurise and re-pressurise the airbags using IIDTool......might also need to upgrade the compressor with Meerbusch's kit.

Sad to report I have not solved my clonking at the rear, so will strip out the interior in the back and test that and get tools together for subframe bushes. Hoping I won't have to drop the rear diff to sort those bushes out. MAybe it is the dampers causing the problem? I also have a clonk coming from the front so drop links and possibly track rods are next on the list.

[EDIT] "Rear" clonking resolved by fitting new FRONT droplinks Neutral 
Have iiDTool BT in Hampshire - happy to help Smile
Also have VAG VCDS if you have an Audi/VW etc.
Always have comprehensive toolkit: hammer, duct tape, WD40 Wink
robertus-brunneis - sollus-arbilla vagor stlata

Post #181955 9th Apr 2013 9:15am
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Meerbusch



Member Since: 16 May 2012
Location: Duesseldorf
Posts: 272

Germany 2002 Range Rover HSE Td6 Zambezi Silver

TOP WORK, respectfull I read the whole article..., it is the same kind of work like I do here in Germany, know it best, special the circlip and the rust..., so we will open a Range Rover Specialist Garage here in gemany, because here is no correct working garage... Wink) Since 13 years 2002 TD6, silver, 230.000km, Facelift 2006 like new + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + Range Rover EFi 1989 + Mercedes W221 Guard B6/B7 3,6to, also in silver, for daily driving in wrong side of town Düsseldorf.... Wink

Post #292189 11th Nov 2014 1:45pm
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