| 2002-2005 ABS ECU Short Harness Replacement - TB LM206-001V2 | |
Recently I posted about a recurring ABS fault that happens only after being stuck in Traffic - a quick look through the TOPIx Tech Bulletins Threw Up LM206-001V2 (http://greenoval.homeunix.org/l322/tb/LM20...0Fault.pdf) which indicates my symptoms perfectly, so I decided to give the rectification a go....
I ordered the replacement ABS Short Harness from my local LR Dealer (Hunters in Guildford) and it arrived the next day (£30.02 May 2013)....
So as yesterday was a great day weather-wise, I thought I would give it a go.
Reading the offical Land Rover Technical Bulletin (attached in the Second link above) the procedure is to unwrap the ABS short Harness and then splice in the replacement harness. They state the use of Crimp connections, but I am not a fan of those so I decided to solder and sleeve my connections, and because I was not using bulky Crimp connections I would not have to stagger the joints (which is a pain to do).
First up is to place the bonnet into Service Mode (read my Radiator How To in the How To Section)
Next is to disconnect the battery - remember to wait for the Sat Nav unit to turn off first (read my Fuel Pump How To in the How To Section)
The Replacement Harness from LR....
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The Original Short Harness.....
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Lever open the locking catch on the ABS connection
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Remove the ABS Connection
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Undo the Earth Connection
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Using a small screw driver, lever the tabs on the Connection and take the top off
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Start unwrapping the original harness to expose the wiring loom - there is a lot of wiring!!
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Seperate the ABS Connection wires from the loom, I used one of my Karabiners to hold the unwanted wires to one side so I wouldn't cut the wrong ones!
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I counted the Vehicle Loom wires and also the replacement harness wires.....the replacement harness was one wire short!!
This turned out to be a Yellow/White wire for the Headlamp leveling connection according to RAVE, so I followed the Tech Bulletin and slide the locking tabs over, and then using a very small Watch Makers screwdriver to release the locking tab, I removed the wire from the original connector and placed it into the relevant spare space in the new connector - didn't take any photos of this as the process was all fingers and thumbs and to be honest I was getting a little frustrated trying to get it out that a photo was the last thing on my mind!! Still I managed it, happy days!
Now comes the slow process of cutting the wires and soldering them together then heat shrink sleeve each joint...I am no expert with a soldering iron, but with the use of my 'Helping Hands' device to hold the wires while I soldered them, it made life a little easier, and the result is a neater joint than using crimps! ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK THE WIRING COLOURS AND ENSURE YOU ARE JOINING THE CORRECT ONE - I only made on mistake thankfully so only had to unsolder one joint!
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The completed joints - the Tech Bulletin states 1.6 hours using Crimps, I took 5 hours to make the joints - I work slowly and methodically, can't afford LR prices to correct my mistakes!
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Do a temporary check by plugging the ABS connector in and reconnecting the battery, start the engine and reset the Steering Angle Sensor doing the turns to lock and lock and back to centre and if all the joints are good there should be no errors.
Once it all checks out (thankfully no bells and whistle on mine) is to tape up the loom using insulation tape. One thing I did forget to do and only realised when I had done half the joints was to shorten the supplied harness to create a better looking loom repair so I apologise for the rather snaking replacement!
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Put the top on the new harness and plug it in - another quick check to ensure all is well and Roberts your Mothers Brother....
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A coffee and a Mars Ice Cream went down well after an afternoon in the Sun....
Again Sorry for the snaking Loom repair, I am a tad annoyed I forgot to shorten the harness to fit, but I am NOT doing the connections again!  
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3rd May 2013 11:45am
