delamo that was exactly my thoughts when I saw the pics. I had my brakes done 6 weeks ago and they most certainly didn't look like that, even prior to bedding in. Dan no way are those bedded, either the discs are out of true, surface uneven or the pads are goosed.

The discs should have an even bright finish throughout their whole diameter and circumference. Did you refit the old pads by any chance??

I took that pic after a 2 mile drive back from the garage, so they weren't bedded in yet. However, now the wear band is solid and uniform. Thanks tho!

D 

Thats good to know Dan - had an idea you would know what was right, was just concerned, thats all

(Nice touch with the drilled / vented discs by the way - very snazzy!)

Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

I did re-use the pads, so I was expecting poor performance for a while and am hoping that's the answer to my shimmy. Will wait another few hundred miles and get the wheels balanced. 

Quote:

Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

a friend did that and re-used pads that were only a few hundred miles old - he unfortunately ended up with new warped discs.

Vogue wrote:

Quote:

Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

a friend did that and re-used pads that were only a few hundred miles old - he unfortunately ended up with new warped discs.

How/Why? 

a mechanics opinion was that as the pads were only making partial contact over the whole of the disc, this led to increased friction on a smaller contact area and therefore significantly more heat generation than was design intended - which resulted in his warped discs.

If you think about it, it is logical that if the pads are only making partial contact all the braking effort is going through this reduced contact area = significantly more heat.

The warped disc symptoms were significant wobble at between 60 and 70mph only when braking - otherwise it was ok - discs only seem to wobble when braking as the pads are in contact with the disc and it travelled up through his steering wheel quite badly.

Out of balanced wheels in my experience are slightly there all the time, but get slightly more progressively worse through certain speed ranges - braking doesn't usually have an effect on out of balance wheels.

Really hope this isn't bad news Dan

Thanks for that, makes sense. However I was very gentle with the breaking for the first 200+ miles so don't think I could have heated them beyond their tolerances. At the end of the day they were cheap discs so they could just be slightly warped already.

I've noticed the shimmy has decreased over the last few days, I was late this morning so wasn't hanging about and can't say I noticed it, but there wasn't any super high speed braking, just country lanes. I'll go home via a fast road this eve and see if I can pick up the shake again.

I think my balancing/tracking is out anyway, so I do need to get this looked at. Along with my lower ball joint on the passenger side has failed again, after about 25K of our roads that fall off into the ditches and leave massive craters. 

Just got back in from spending the afternoon changing my discs (no name) and pads (Mintex). My servicing guy identified worn discs last time round. The pads that came off had plenty of wear left, but it seemed a shame to put old pads onto new discs. Discs didn't look too bad - I would have run them on for another 30K but MOT looms.

Safety First

Great Pics Joe90, they were the pics I should have taken!

D 

Best 2p's worth I've seen for a while!

Hi, i also have a pajero for my sins as well as a FFRR, on the Pajero brakes you can't push the pistons straight back in as the back flow of fluid could damage the ABS, is this the same for FFRR e.g, use a hose clamp, drain some fliud, push piston back and bleed?

There again i might be completely wrong here, i'm no mechanic !!!

Cheers If its not broke now it soon will !!!

Bigbangman wrote:

Hi, i also have a pajero for my sins as well as a FFRR, on the Pajero brakes you can't push the pistons straight back in as the back flow of fluid could damage the ABS, is this the same for FFRR e.g, use a hose clamp, drain some fliud, push piston back and bleed?

There again i might be completely wrong here, i'm no mechanic !!!

Cheers

It's a good point Bigbangman. The Rave instructions tell you to undo the bleed nipple and push out some fluid (using tubes and bottle with fluid in it), but I have not experienced any problems with any car, with ABS, including P38A, doing it my way, and not had any warnings form the car re ABS. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

No problem pushing the pots back in the calipers - a wind back tool worked effortlessly for me. Probably one of the best tools I have ever bought to be honest:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-40141-18PC-...B000PJ8NLE

dantheman wrote:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-40141-18PC-...B000PJ8NLE

Looks like I'll have to sort out a "blow mould storage carrying case with display sleeve" for my Acme  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999