Many thanks

The sun came out for a few hours and i got onto the testing. Having let the car sleep i was still losing 690ma. With the tailgate open and the latch closed on the u/tailgate, allowed the car to rest for 15mins until asleep.
With a fuse puller i started at the 15A tow bar electrics, pulled it and instantly the drain dropped to <100ma (my meter doesn't appear to read any less). Put the fuse back in and the draw remained low

Fired up the car after refitting the battery and removing meter. With the IID tool reading voltage, 14.8v and 12.9v loaded. A huge improvement, my steering lock has come back to life and all appears well.

Could it be this simple? Was it just a relay in the tow bar electrics stuck open?

I do hope so

Down side is, i have a perfectly serviceable alternator on the side board if anyone needs one at a discounted price. Ian

I think there is a separate relay in the boot on the towing wiring, so should be a simple swap if the drain comes back.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

maybe aftermarket tow wiring has a relay and OE wiring hasnt?

The relay is an addition to the lighting, it provides power to a caravan fridge etc. Ian

^^ yep, spearate to the "fag packet" mounts to the right hand side of the cubby. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Hello,

I know this is an old post, but I'm having issues getting to my alternator. I've drained radiator fluid, removed air box and various clamps/connectors.
The issues I'm having are:

1. How to remove the line going across the top of radiator shrod?
2. Both the top radiator hose (passenger-side) and lower radiator hose (driver-side). I release/pulled the
clips off, but can't pull the hoses off. The end pieces look to be on a specific way. I don't want to crack or break them off.
3. Don't know what to lossen on bottom to be able to lift radiator out.
4. Will the line on top of Fan shrod, Fan shrod and radiator all come out together or separately?

Thanks

With all due respect sir, it's not an easy job for the in-experienced home mechanic and some of the questions your asking are relatively straight forward... Would you not be better off getting a shop or mobile mech to do the swap over for you?

No offence meant sir

Cam-Tech-Craig,

No offense taken.

trying to work on my own RR without having to take it in every time something breaks down. The RR has a lot of wiring and connectors as well as pluming, so it can be intimidating, but I love working on my vehicles, as well as saving money.

It's not straight forward if you haven't worked on a RR before and not having a repair manual (RAVE). Everyone has there first attempt at removing something off their vehicle and request a little assistance. Just trying to get more intimate with working on RR.

I was able to see stormy off youtbe removing the upper radiator coolant hos. The metal clamp was lifted and the hose removed without too much of an effort. I did the same but the hose will not come off even after wiggling it.


Thanks 2017 Victory Magnum Gloss Black
2006 Range Rover HSE 4.4L Jag Engine/ Buckingham Blue
2002 Kawasaki ZX12r - Black
1990 300zx NA Coupe - Silver

Mine is a diesel V8 and can't say if yours will be the same.

I didn't remove the radiator, only the shroud and viscous fan. This was enough room for my model.

Radiator pipes will appear stuck but gripping them and twisting (as if you were undoing a jar) cracks the seal.

 Ian

T24RES,

Sounds good, I'll do this.


Thanks!! 2017 Victory Magnum Gloss Black
2006 Range Rover HSE 4.4L Jag Engine/ Buckingham Blue
2002 Kawasaki ZX12r - Black
1990 300zx NA Coupe - Silver

Lovely job T24RES, my alternator went pop today, short circuit, a few warning messages dead satnav screen parked up, switched off then nothing!! Recovered home just spent 2 hours taking various hoses off, need to sort a 36mm spanner for the fan and then get the offending item out!! Your pictures are a great help,
Cheers
Neil

For those of you wondering about the ~2 minute delay before the alternator kicks in - I might have an explanation...

Land Rover introduced at some point, I'm not sure when, an intelligent alternator control system. This aims to improve fuel efficiency by smartly recharging the battery depending on the drive cycle.

Imagine the normal alternator situation where a battery is used to turn over the starter motor to start the engine, the battery is discharged by this and the open circuit voltage drops. The alternator detects this and kicks in to start recharging the battery, usually as soon as the engine is started, i.e. when the engine is likely to be idling or loaded in order to accelerate the vehicle from standstill. To put this in perspective with the amount of electrical stuff that the L322 and L405 needs to run the alternator is pretty damn beefy as ideally this should be able to run the entire vehicle without necessitating a battery (say it's dodgy and can start the vehicle but can't run it). Therefore it's the equivalent of a few horse power of parasitic loading on the engine. I.e. it's not being used to propel the vehicle forwards.

Now flip this on its head slightly and you realise that the battery doesn't need to be recharged immediately - there's usually plenty in reserve after starting. So what the IAC (Intelligent Alternator Control) System does is hold off recharging the battery (and therefore running the alternator and therefore loading the engine) until a point in the drive cycle where it is more optimal, say under braking or at least when the engine is up to temperature. If you think about it if you can hold off recharging the battery until you want the vehicle to slow down you can load the engine with the alternator, save fuel and brake pads by using regenerative braking.

I did come across an AA article about the 4.4TDV8 which mentions this so it's conceivable that it only got introduced about then. Ed

blueRR2006 wrote:

Hello,

I know this is an old post, but I'm having issues getting to my alternator. I've drained radiator fluid, removed air box and various clamps/connectors.
The issues I'm having are:

1. How to remove the line going across the top of radiator shrod?
2. Both the top radiator hose (passenger-side) and lower radiator hose (driver-side). I release/pulled the
clips off, but can't pull the hoses off. The end pieces look to be on a specific way. I don't want to crack or break them off.
3. Don't know what to lossen on bottom to be able to lift radiator out.
4. Will the line on top of Fan shrod, Fan shrod and radiator all come out together or separately?
]

Hello Everyone,

Sorry for late response. I had some training classes, family visits, etc.

I was able to log into Topix and locate the procedure to remove the alternator
by just removing the radiator reservoir tank & bracket and upper radiator hose.
This opens up a large area to see the alternator.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice. 2017 Victory Magnum Gloss Black
2006 Range Rover HSE 4.4L Jag Engine/ Buckingham Blue
2002 Kawasaki ZX12r - Black
1990 300zx NA Coupe - Silver