Having moved house is seem to be loading the RR up with lots of building materials and last week I nearly filled the boot up with logs. This has got me thinking that maybe I should sell the RR and get either a TD5 or a P38 rather than wreck the inside of the RR. I am also finding that on the drive to work the engine is only just getting warm (6 miles).

I don't want to spend any money (Rather keep it for the house)

So choices are
1 Keep the TDV8 and not worry (not like me as I like my car spotless)
2 Sell it and get a petrol (doesn't solve the problem of transporting building materials and logs)
3 Sell it and get a p38 (petrol or diesel)
4 Sell it and get a TD5

What do we recon is best? 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Solution to logs: UK Custom Covers boot liner - I got one of these because of the dog but she spends most of the time on the back seat now. But it has been invaluable in protecting the boot. Very strong for what it is, waterproof and machine washable. Was about £80 I think and worth every penny. Been moving stuff around like you, wood to tip, cement and ballast etc for building. Only problem I've found is protecting the trim by the rear speakers. If you want to fold down the rear seats the cover stretches to protect the backs. If you fold them up you can leave it on the floor to protect the carpet and I chuck another old sheet over the seats.

Solution to not warming engine up: get a heavier right foot! I work about 8 miles from home and can usually get the TDV8 warmed up within half that distance at the longest.

will look into the boot cover. Not sure about heavier right foot, happy to put the foot down when the engine is warm, but pushing the turbos when cold doesn't do them any good 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Get a hook and a wee trailer!

My boot is rank due to dog and drainage ditch as well as taking loads to the coup.

The full flexible boot liner is great along with the fixed load space tray with the 2" lip. But the headlining does get a bit dirty.

Changing the car will give you the same problem about wanting your cars to be spotless.

If you are serious TopCar have a Disco3 in green (flame jacket on!) for just under £10K which may solve all the problems and get some cash back.

got a hook and a 16ft trailer, any trailer (even a small one) would be a pig to get down the lane to get logs, nowhere to turn a trailer and 1/4 mile reverse round a couple of bends

don't expect to get a spotless p38 or td5 so could live with that being a bit manky

Donnie's (Top Car/Skip) d3 doesn't have the wipe clean (leather) seats, sorry bit a snob and like the feel of leather  56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Dickies have a D4 commercial.....nae wipe clean seats and three pedals!!! But cheapish!

Series III or tax free lightweight for log duties?

I got rid of a 4.2sc for a disco4 but within 15 mths back in a FF. I don't think you can get a better car!

Need my main car to be suitable for work so commercial of S III not practical, D4, D3 or SSRR didn't do it for me when I got the VSE.

Could live with TD5 or P38 as prices are so low I could run them for a couple of years and sell for what I paid and get an FF once I have finished the house 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

With regards to warming up the turbos it's far more important to let them cool down. A turbo is lubricated by oil because of the specs they spin at. As long as the oil is circulating the turbos will be OK, in fact there is a school of thought that with modern (particularly diesels rather than high performance petrols) that it's better to warm them up quickly.

If the turbo has been under load for a long time (eg long motorway run) then the turbo will have warmed up significantly and the engine should be left to idle for a few minutes. This allows the oil to circulate around the bearings and allow it to help conduct heat away to prevent rapid cooling and possibly seizing.

I can't find anything specific about the 3.6 but did come across a press release from JLR about improvements made to the 4.4 to bring the engine up to temp sooner in order to reduce emissions. From what I remember from the user manual it recommends the cooling but don't remember anything about warming up.

Take that with a pinch of salt but basically the most important thing is to give enough time for the oil to circulate (ie don't floor it as soon as you start it) and then if warm let it cool down.

I had a D2 td5 for 5 years, Great car cheap parts, dedicated technical forum following, top ES spec will all the toys. But
still less toys than the FF
It would be quite a step back in terms or ride quality and far more noisy in general. It also took about 6 miles to get warm. I even looked at a radiator muff and removed the viscous fan deep winter.
The boot is smaller than the FF
The back of the D2 is very uncomfortable even on short trips.
my wife would not drive the D2, too much hard work. steering is still heavy and doesn't self centre well
As for a Defender, it has to be frankly one of the most cramped driving position I have ever been in and 3miles of test drive was enough

I would get get a small erde trailer for the logs or a boot liner and a fhb
I have the v8 L322, running 6miles to work it gets warm with 1mile, but 18mpg on these short trips. My wife loves it as we waft along

Series vehicle for logs etc

Trailer or boot liner! Man maths may try and convince you into buying another car but its not the cheapest or most sensible solution! '14.5 SDV8 Nara Bronze for sale
'17 BMW 740e Msport Individual on order
'17 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT 6.4 Hemi on order
'16 Bentley Continental GT V8S Mulliner Driving Spec
'07 Alfa 159 3.2 Q4
'05 Mini Cooper R50
'95 Volvo 850R modified to 400hp
'89 Jaguar TWR ed XJ-S V12 Convertible

defo agree on letting the turbo's run & cool down before you switch off.

had 3 TD5 ES in the past, not a smooth and short on toys, but awesome handling with ACE. 2 p38 as well, sure they had less toys than the TD5. 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

Boot liner is the way forward and rubber mats!

Or use the ff for clean duties, and get a real old smoker for the logs. Old land cruisers can be cheap and robust! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Well, I feel your pain there, currently on the same rebuild a 300 year old farm house, but why not get a cheap pick up just for picking up logs/ building material, tax exempt be best, run it down to the ground as Im sure building wont be for ever, sell the oil burner as you don't do the mileage and go petrol FF for work.....

^ as for tonkas, go for 70 or 80 series, they are bullet proof, I had a 80 series 4.5 petrol with 220k and was a dream to drive, regret selling it now. If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

I know just getting a scrapper as a 4th car is the most obvious solution, but cant justify 2-3K to get one, That is a new kitchen or bathroom for the house  56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)