Hi,

Anyone had this problem, genuine locking wheel nut and can't get it off.

Wheel nut top bit (alloy colour) just rotates around and around. You can line the key up with the bottom bit so the key goes on completely but i think the small pice below the alloy and above the washer is worn so the whole key just turns.

Can't weld a nut cos the top just rotates, no room the get chisel/screwdriver in to knock it around and not sure a locking wheel nut socket would be any good as majority of nut just rotates.

Anyone had similar problem with these nuts, otherwise its a garage in the week and no doubt a big expense.

Thanks If its not broke now it soon will !!!

Hi Bigbangman,

Had exactly the same problem a few months ago...

Went to my local independant garage / tyre fitters and explained the problem - within 5 mins the offending nut was removed.

First he chisled off the top cap (one sharp whack and the cap split / broke off) - he then used a extractor socket set (Snap On - I think). Once he sorted the correct size socket it was knocked on using a hammer...

...the 'special' socket had sharp teeth inside which cut into the remains of the striped nut, the harder it was hit with the hammer, the better it gripped.

Once secure - he carefully removed the nut using a standard wheel wrench - absolutely no damage caused to the wheel. Apparently these extractor sets are a common bit of kit amongst tyre fitters.

Very pleased - gave him a £20 'drink' for his efforts

(a replacement set of Genuine LR locking nuts cost me £55 from the stealers)

Hi Delamo,

Thanks for the info, would be good if i can get it done similar to you.

However, it sounds like your type has the chrome type shell on the top which was knocked off. Mine don't seem to be like that but similar to these:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VIS...0469454936

I now have a doubt that they might not be original LR as i don't have caps on top of the nuts, its seem to be two types of metal fused together, majority alloy colour with a ring of metal above the washer with similar keyed indentations

Regards If its not broke now it soon will !!!

Your eBay link doesn't seem to be working Bigbangman so I can't see what yours are like...

My wheelnuts were / are the same as these...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-LOCKING-WHEE...arParts_SM

I'm fairly certain yours (being a 2006 car) should be the same type, they were supplied as standard on 2006+ L322's and I don't think there are any aftermarket nuts available for the later model year alloys?

The extractors you are refering to are probably made by Irwin - Great tools. If you can get the rotating cap off with a chisel, they should go on no problem. They are easier to use with an impact wrench though as that allows you to push, while the wrench does the turning.

I had a similar problem on a mates Disco with those nuts... He had bought the car with the wrong key then his missus had a puncture... I held the "wrong key" on with a breaker bar and beat it onto the locking nut with a big hammer - Voila!, off it came.

Indeed DeltaC - it was infact your information (and dan_uk_1984) that helped me when I had this very problem with my nuts a few months ago! - Thank you

Hi, thanks for the replies:

I think mine might well be the same as they look like the same ones as far as i can tell.

I've just attempted to have a practice splitting the top on one of the others but hardly made an impression on it seems very solid and couldn't see it coming off in any way or form as yours did, hence i thought mine may be different, anyway hope not.

Would have tried hammering on a socket but given that the alloy metal part just rotates it wouldn't have had any effect.

Guess its going to be a trip to the garage and a new set given that i don't trust the other 3 anymore!

Thanks for your help If its not broke now it soon will !!!

No problem Bigbangman - hope my experience helps you out

That top cap you mention is no more than 4-5mm thick and appears to be a cast type metal.

I think the nuts get damaged by using impact gun drivers to fit and remove them. The teeth of the cupped key grinds off the receiving teeth on the nut if it isn't 100% fitted correctly.

These locking wheel nuts are not the best design IMHO but as I said before, I don't think an alternative design is available?

... also make sure the 'key' used to remove them isn't mis-shapen, or you could end up damaging the remaining nuts. You can gently reshape the key by using a trusty hammer!

I looked at a wheel nut remover socket device in Halfords. if I remember rightly, I think they use a reverse thread and somehow as they go on they crush the outer spinning cover against the real internal head, then you just use a normal socket set to unscrew them off. Obviously, you then need to buy a new set of locking wheel nuts. Kit is £17 - Link below...
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_165469 [url][/url]

They also have a questions & answers section on the tool...
http://answers.halfords.com/answers/4028/p...stions.htm [url][/url] Steve

Main car : FFRR Vogue TD6 SE (06MY - Sept)
Other car : Vauxhall Lotus Carlton
Past cars : LandCruiser SWB ; 4-Runner ; Supras; XJS V12 LeMans

Steve,
The extractors have a coarse left hand thread and wind themselves onto their "victim" until they bottom out or the force required is less than the force required to remove the stuck item. They don't crush the top bit, they have to be able to reach the lower section of the two piece nuts.

Once you've got them off, put the victim on a bolt or redundant stud in a vice and wwind the other way..

I removed a set of locking wheel nuts off a car as quick as if they were standard nuts...

Hi DeltaC, thanks for clarifying.  Steve

Main car : FFRR Vogue TD6 SE (06MY - Sept)
Other car : Vauxhall Lotus Carlton
Past cars : LandCruiser SWB ; 4-Runner ; Supras; XJS V12 LeMans