please read up on refilling fluid..... it must be done with car very warm, and many times refilling, whilst someone selects gears to fill all fluid 'pockets' etc. just starting car up and checking is not proper. if it is full, leave it running, drink some coffee, come back, select gears, and refill, it WILL take some. if not taking fluid, drink more coffee. when you are sure after say 20 mins of it running hot. that you cant get another drop in..... only then replace cap. and test drive. you should be filling it into the plug on side of gearbox. that way, you have full circuit of fluid, and oil level is true.... TC is then fullest, and coolant lines have no air......

read up on filling... car MUST be warmed, level checked many times (warm). gears selected. rechecked. it sounds like difficult job, but is very simple, compared to the hard work already done.

note, this needs to be done with your new box, or existing box, when you have put it (back) in... its important to do this correctly. filled from side, till overflowing, when fully warmed and primed.

Last edited by johnboyairey on 25th Sep 2015 11:04am. Edited 1 time in total

First of all, I would like to thank all those who participated here, and not, thank you all for the big help, and most important the moral support, in my small odyssey.
As I told, yesterday just removed gearbox for the 4th or 5th time, I don't remember exactly how many time was removed on past three months, but I really learned how can do, with minor time..and this is positive, of sure without your advice would not be able.
I do not like to give in, So before send it to a garage ,only for a personal matter, as a challenge for me, need to know where wrong. and so started streep the transmission for the last time, hope, slowly and take pics step by step
The first strange things, are two broken gasket on imput shaft

as stubborn man I think solved freevel direction problem.now can rotate only clockwise.

When the new free wheel was received, missing a piece, as image, maybe during delivery, and found the missing piece in the black bag and than refitted, believing correctly, but no.

Andrew, before you refit it this gearbox, i would wait for hopefully some advice from RRphil. even taking it to specialist, i would wait... it looks like the two teflon seal rings are damaged, you might want to find the debris... if they are not working, i dont think you would have any hydraulic pressure, this would mean TC is cycling fluid, against nothing..i cant think these were bad whilst box was in, it must have happened when you removed assemblies, (hammering?) for those F drum parts to weld together means something is very wrong, like spacers, or the bearing cups you show are wrong way round? etc.

It’s important that the PTFE rotary seals are held in place in their grooves with their scarf joint ‘closed’ (using petroleum jelly) to prevent the ends being caught as the oil pump assembly is lowered into place. As johnboyairey has already mentioned these seals direct the main cooling flow to the torque converter. If the seals fail then the flow direction to the TC will be reversed and the lock-up clutch will be applied.

Phil

NO, I will not fit anything in this conditions, I have to replace both Teflon seals rings, that I can't have before 10/15 days, (can be found as generic part Phil do you know the size and dimensions)and of sure solve F brake problem, Because F clutch drum won't fit now.

I must know if this sound is correct or not


Phil,brass rings inthe images, must be smooth inside ?

with bmw part number , I will be able to order teflon rings from bmw dealer here, and so have rings in few days.
can anyone confirm if seals number 4 here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/it/showparts?id...Id=24_0687
are the same rings zf part n. 0734 317 256 that I need?

The same seal rings are used in the 5HP18, 6HP19 & 6HP26 transmissions as well as the 5HP24. BWM did sell them separately for the 5HP18 under their part number 24 23 1 422 210 (which superseded 24 23 1 421 112). I have no idea if they’re still available through BMW.

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yes, right Phil, ,also my zf reference about piston ring say the same your

supersedes: 24 23 1 421 112 but doubt even , bmw supply it
I also believed the 5hp30 was the same, wrong assumption.

However, zf also provides each part included in the kit, if required. Just long delivery time from Germany. I will wait.

What you think about sprag?

I’m wondering if it might be best if I just send you a complete assembly

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quick update:gearbox reassembled yesterday, and everything seems to be okay.
I did a test on my private place, and not tested running on road as not having insurance coverage, so I will do a complete test in these days but the problem seems disappeared, as I thought, because the sprag can only rotate clockwise now-
For the firs time have a problem with one of four torque converter bolts, hard to put in.
Will refer shortly

can anyone tell me which error code came out if oil level is low?

If you are having a problem putting in TC bolts, make sure others are still loose, and file the first three threads to a taper, this will make the bolt go a bit further in, whilst locating the first hand turn...(straighter) and will be easier to then screw in. It happened to me also. When all four all the way in, -tighten etc.

Fingers crossed for you Andrew.

yes John ,I always perform this procedure as described by you, but this time I had the head of a bolt get stuck somewhere, and could not turn the wheel, so I forced a little, and I think I slightly bent flexplate , and than t. converter slightly rattles in reverse.
Anyway, I tried test on the road, and dirive mode is very well, with smooth gear. I ran about 10 miles and bang failsafe programm yet.
but not strange symptoms , and EGS show me solenoid 1 error. I believe have low level fluid (about 1 liter) but I do not think that is the cause.
What I have in reverse sound so
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuJIrNHq...sp=sharing

This noise came out after I forced flexplate and t converter to put the last bolt
I did the first test with only three bolts and nothing like this.
I think could be torque cnverter but why only in revrese?

I have had a few odd noises since I did my gearbox, but they don't sound like your car. Mine sound like a rattle, and I think it's a stray piece of tinware, from the exhaust shields rattling, mine does it when reserving, or just idling forward. Only when driven from stone cold. I would not think its the TC though, as it goes the same way for forward and reverse. If you think you have damaged the flex plate, you might have a condition I had on a Mercedes I had. The crank position sensor takes a set routine of magnetic pulses, from the gaps in the flex plate, and this allows the sparking, and car to start. If one of the gaps is damaged, as mine was, from a broken off crank sensor, (previous owner snapped it and dropped it in). -it started, but it wouldn't Rev to max RPM. And car would not go faster than 80mph. (Misfire). Note on that car, (merc v6) you can't Rev it over 4000rpm, unless you are in gear, to stop it damaging engine by revving, say at traffic lights etc. You can check the state of the gaps, by very slowly rotating flex plate, with screwdriver in starter teeth, and looking through inspection holes.
I think you still have an issue with some of that grinding/bonding of two parts in gearbox, in the pictures you showed,
However, just check that you have a decent adjustment on the serpentine belt of the engine before you go in with any spanners.
Would it not be an idea, to find that rogue bolt, remove it, and retest for noise. This will prove your box is good. And flex plate is indeed 'flexing!'