1. Rotate the raised front wheels when draining the front diff (manual suggests so)?

2. Remove the front pass side wheel when refilling front diff oil (looks easier to me, if DIY axle stands are how you're raising the car?

3. Apply silicone sealant to the front diff fill and drain plugs (manual says yes but doesn't say that for the rear diff)/ if necessary, would PTFE Teflon tape work just as well?

Thanks.



Last edited by pld118 on 13th Nov 2015 5:05pm. Edited 1 time in total

1. Nope, maybe I should have
2. Nope, connected a length of clear pipe to the filling nozzle of the bottle, measured out the 750 ?? ml as recommended by TSB.
3. Applied loctite thread lock to drain bung and filler bung

^ 1,2,3 what holidaychicken says  2002 L322 V8

1. Why? Not advised on MY02?
2. Why? Not advised on MY02?
3. Used a loctite type sealant .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

1) yes, I did, but it didn't seem to get any more oil out.
2). No, just measured 750ml of oil into a 'squirty' oil can, and this was fine
3). There was no trace of any sealant on the drain / filler plugs when i removed them, so i didn't put any on - no evidence of any leaks since.  2006 (56 Reg) 4.4 V8 Vogue In Bonatti Grey (Gorgeous!!)

Joe90 wrote:

1. Why? Not advised on MY02? ...

http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/rang...page_1452/

The manual note on the above link suggests rotating the wheels to ensure that any remaining oil contained in the Diff is basically allowed to find its way out via the drain hole whilst the drain plug is out and before putting new oil in. Suppose if you're draining to a measure and the recommended amount drains out, then it's reasonable to assume it's pretty much all out.

I'd also read someone referring to taking the front passenger wheel off for easier access so as to refill the front Diff, if you have axle stands but not the luxury of a ramp or pit.

My refill kit has a short hose/ nozzle and so I've since tried the wheel off suggestion just to weigh up access; and for my kit, it will be a lot easier for me just to remove the front passenger wheel and get refill access that way, as opposed to crawling under the car to try and refill, which might well get messy based on my short refill hose!

As mine was done on the road side (with a camber) I drove the nearside onto some blocks of wood to get the car level and then raised the suspension. It's not especially difficult to get at the diff bungs with the wheel on, either from the front or from the side.

I used a smear of hylomar on the threads for the front diff, the rear diff is different and uses flanged plugs with ally sealing washers.

Well, it's draining off overnight pending my refill in the morning... and I'll be using the original drain plug because I've been sent a new filler plug instead of a new drain plug

The front diff oil drained out with no mess or fuss. Just used an extension tool and carefully undid the plug, having first wrapped a cotton towel around the spillage danger zones but low, it drained right into my oil basin below

I will be rotating the wheels to make sure it's all out first (it looks murky/ there was a fair amount of metal particle stuck to the drain plug magent); and I will be removing the front pass wheel for my own easy access when refilling with my short straw

Ps.. Dan @ Duckworths spoke with their Techs and they say they don't apply sealant or anything to these plugs and have not had issues.

Job done. Raised and rotated both wheels but nothing more drained out, although I'd left it to drain overnight.

Only 700ml of old Diff Oil came out.

Re-used existing drain plug with some thread seal (re-torqued that at 54nm), re-filled the Diff with 750ml of new oil, re-used existing filler plug (re-torqued that at 35nm); and gave both plugs a coating of grease to stop them seizing.

So that's front Diff, rear Diff and Transfer Case fluids all changed this week now.

Long drive after that today and did wonder if the car seemed smoother... but that'll likely be the imagination

Which oil did you use? 2004 L322 V8

Can't understand why they give such a high torque figure for fill and drain plugs, just makes them ridiculously hard to get out next time or you end up damaging the threads... always just nip mine up, they are under no pressure all they do is keep oil in... never had one leak and I can always get them out again..

And that's all fill and drain plugs, not just the diffs... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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chex wrote:

Which oil did you use?

4.4TDV8:

1. Front Diff Oil - Castrol SAF XO 75W/90 (0.75L to refill)

2. Electronic Rear Diff Oil (electronic rear diff) - SAF Carbon Mod Plus (1.5L to refill)

3. Transfer Case Fluid - Shell TF0753 (1.5L to refill)


@ Pete, I did wonder if the torque settings like they were heading towards being tight but just when I thought it'd had enough, the Torque Wrench kicked in and dud it's job!

Anyone surprised at the 14mm front diff drain !!! Someone misreading the size in the manufacturing stage !! 2015 4.4 AB
GSXR 1000 K5
R1 1998

I was a bit surprised how much bigger than the others , I just wish the diff, transfer box and gearbox were just the same fitting  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis