Hi folks, yep its another turbo question, I have searched for an answer, some come close but not quite.

I have the good old Engine System Fault it started at first only coming on after 30 minutes of driving with no dash lights.

Popped it to the shop and happily EGR's are fine and it was reading a Turbo boost pressure fault. Now I have had a sticky waste gate before which was lubed and freed off by the garage with good old wd40. However they say the turbo values seem ok, so the thought went to the intercooler hoses, possibly when heating up the pipe gets soft and the hole opens and drops pressure. Ordered some silicone ones will take a while to arrive.

Started it the other day, no faults on just ignition on, the second it was started the engine management light stayed on and up came the engine system fault message...no 30 minutes now.

Whipped the intercooler hoses off today no sign of a split or holes.

I'm getting there ok so now its under powered engine management light on and system fault all the time... no sign of excess smoke. My thinking therefore is it has a sticky waste gate again.

All that explanation for this question .... is the turbo easily enough accessible for me to clean it and loosen it off? If so what is the best way of getting at it?

I had these issues on my D3 and got at the actuator arm by removing battery box, the garage cleans with wd40 and frees it up then leaves it. WD40 is not exactly a great long term lubricant so on the D3 I sprayed the area with 3 in one oil spray and never had the problem again.

Due to previous waste gate issues, no sign of split hose (although it could be a tiny hole) I am hedging my bets on the waste gate again. So rather than pay the garage to clean it I would much rather this end of year do it myself

Your wisdom would be much appreciated  09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Just a quick bump seeing as it was put on new years eve, in the hope someone might know 09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Boost pressure sensor or MAF?

Silly question but you have checked the hoses underneath the protective sheathing? Quite a coon area for it to split I hear (that's where I had mine split). Ed

If it was a split hose, I would expect it to be smokey at all times, and for the ESF warning to much more frequent
If it is split, it would be split, not open up when its warm

In general, if the fault is occuring at ignition on, then its an actuator problem

The O/S actuator is fairly easy to access, the N/S not so, it's buried above the diff. If you look at just the right angle, you can see it
Both actuators should move through their full range of travel with the ignition on, and engine switch off. If not, then it will log a fault

I checked under the webbing sadly no split. As mikey says I am fairly certain it's the actuator which is gummed and sticking the waste gate open.

Of course the N/S one would be a pain in the butt to get to as it's the one that sticks hoorah! I'm hoping I can do a similar coathanger twisted into a hooked and and wiggle the actuator arm while blasting with wd40 anyone done this is it accessible enough?

After I'll spray the arm with spray 3 in one oil, did that to my D3 and it never stuck again. I think when the garage freed it with wd40 last time it just sticks again in no time as it's not lubricated.

Cheers for the replies 09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

You are correct, WD40 to free the arm off, something else to keep it lubricated

I can't remember at this time of the morning, how I free off the NS actuator without seeing it, but it can be done

Thanks

I shall look forward to lying under the car fiddling about trying to reach the actuator in the p'ing rain and the cold. Ahh the joy of Range Rover  09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Ok update for those who find themselves with a sticky actuator / waste gate.

Its in a really awkward place and the garage say you have to remove a shield above the diff to see it but this is not necessary.

You will need a good torch a wire coathanger or even better bucket handle its thicker some WD40 and some 3 in one spray oil.

If you remove the plastic panel under the engine you have to look behind the diff where there is what looks like a prop shaft heading in toward the engine. If you look carefully there is a small gap between a couple of shields shine your torch through and you will see the bottom end of the actuator where it connects to the arm going into the turbo. This is the most likely joint to be stiff / seized as it is at the bottom and more exposed.

Get the WD40 and spray a good long jet onto the actuator joint and the arm to the turbo where it pivots really soak it. Then take your flexible metal bucket handle or hanger and make a hook on the end ... slip it into the gap using the torch to allow you to see where its going and hook the arm at the end of the actuator and gently pull down it will likely be horizontal and pulls down to almost vertical. Then unhook and put it under the arm and push back up ...then spray a load of wd40 on and repeat as many times as needed. Once free get someone to fire the ignition on while you are under the car and watch it ping back and forth testing (this made me smile as it worked fine) as it moves spray with WD40 and get the person to keep cycling the ignition on and off making it repeatedly self test as you soak in WD40. Leave for a few minutes for the WD40 to mostly drip off, then get the person to cycle the ignition again as you soak the arm pivots with 3 in one oil spray. This should help keep it lubed, it certainly did on my D3

Replace plastic engine cover and take car back off axle stands and hey presto! I then took it for a good spin, it works fine I just need to reset the ECU as the engine management light is still on it hasn't reset, but no bongs, no engine system fault message tada  09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Done exactly this in a D3 today, after the owner was quoted £4000 to replace his (blanked) EGR valves, as they need elimated first, then most likely the turbo on top of that

An hour, a tin of WD40, and a length of copper brake pipe done the trick

Yeah I preferred doing the D3 you just remove the battery box and you get a birds eye view of the turbo actuator. The Rangie is more keyhole surgery

But going to nip under it and lubricate it with 3 in one spray twice a year as a preventative measure. 09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

That's not a bad idea

Meanwhile, I have a NS turbo to change. Bearings have a rather tight spot while turning, and is squeaking away while running... Actuator works though

Ouch not much room to swing a cat nevermind fit a turbo  09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Had P132E error appear at the weekend and have just spent 2 hours under my RR trying to get at the LH actuator, without much success.

I can see the actuator by looking over the back of the front subframe toward the front of the RR and can get WD 40 sprayed into the gap, not sure if any is hitting the actuator.

Can't work out how to hook the actuator, there doesn't see to be any way to get at it from underneath to pull the actuator down. I can only get at the actuator from the back of the engine.

Any more tips or hints on this? 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

I removed the bottom plastic engine cover then used a coathanger ....no wait ... it was a bucket handle .. same thing just stiffer. Made a hook in the end then lying under the car looking from the rear above the diff with good directional led torch I hooked the bottom of the arm. The bit you can see is the bottom where it connects to the turbo. I had to pull quite hard first time and it released with a clunk it was stiff. It the arm the actuator attaches to looks level then it's stuck up, if it looks like its pointing down at 45 degrees then it's stuck down.

I soaked it in wd40 just using the straw they provide so it will reach. Just remember to use spray 3in one oil or similar once free. Wd40 dries out and gives no lubrication.

Edit - if I recall right I hooked the arm the actuator connects to 09 TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black, Rear seat entertainment, hatch bag and 2 slobbery mutts

Last edited by MachineHead on 24th Feb 2016 4:05am. Edited 1 time in total