Just going through a to do list of our recent new motor and top of the list is all the oils.
One thing I have come across is the gearbox sump and filter.
Until I get underneath it, I would presume it has the combined plastic sump and filter (ZF6HP26).
Would I be as well replacing like for like, or would the metal sump pan and separate filter be a better option?
The cost is more for the metal kit, but at a later date would work out cheaper to buy a ZF filter and gasket.
I have hopefully sourced a 20 litre tub of Lifeguard 6 at a tad under £200 + vat (£234) works out at £11.70 per litre.
Any thoughts?

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Where did you get the 20 litre of lifeguard ,there are very knowledgable guys on here who insist you can only get it in litres only and I have looked and not been able to get a 20 litre tub .

Would this be the same thing?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mannol-Lifeguard...1759178209

Rangeyman wrote:

Where did you get the 20 litre of lifeguard ,there are very knowledgable guys on here who insist you can only get it in litres only and I have looked and not been able to get a 20 litre tub .

http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/tyk500050...-174-p.asp  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Well my source has none in stock, it was Jpat who had an autumn flyer with a special offer for 20 litres. I emailed them on Tuesday and they have none left, only 1 litre or 309 litre drums.

@Ian c2. that looks like it is only available across the pond, would presume delivery and customs duty would be high.

@kmhphoto. That looks interesting and cheap, although Mannol seem to have a good reputation for their oils in Germany.

@Lost for Words. I have looked on advancedfactors and that is a good price. Looks like the correct spec as well.

I would like to ask RRPhil for his opinion first before I go and buy anything other than Lifeguard 6.
Are you about RRPhill please?

I would still like zf6hp26 owners their views about the sump.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

cam-tec-craig did mine and he replaced it with a genuine one which is made of a hard plastic.. ... - .- -.




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Changed mine over the Christmas break using an OEM plastic pan which was almost half the price of a non-genuine metal pan conversion. On the basis I am unlikely the do this more than twice while I own the car, I went for the OEM plastic part and it was a doddle.

The one that came off was almost certainly original going by the manufacture date and my history file shows no oil change before so I wondered what I would find. Relieved to find the oil brown in colour but not bad after 100k miles, no burned smells, no swarf and just a little fine metallic dust on the magnet traps. I'll do another oil change in the spring to leave about 75% of the oil fresh as a precaution.

After a transmission reset, changes are definitely a little better than before but they were pretty good anyway given the mileage! Taking a rest from Land Rovers for a bit.......

Hi steve .
Yes it is over the pond , but that's where I am .
It was just posted to show its available in different quantities

Thanks for all the info.
I think I will keep the plastic sump and filter combined as it is much cheaper than the conversion to a metal sump and separate filter. I have seen a few of these on BMW's when I was a mechanic and most of them seemed fine with just one out of around eight that had developed a leak.
Ian, sorry I didn't notice your location when I posted earlier, too busy studying the various makes of fluid.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

vaz wrote:

@Lost for Words. I have looked on advancedfactors and that is a good price. Looks like the correct spec as well.

It is. Steve @ Advanced has researched the matter, and that is the same as Lifeguard 6 in a different bottle. Also recommended by flushing gurus Disco_Mikey and geoff. on Disco3.

Re the sump, my view on the matter is to stick with the plastic one - as the metal one holds slightly less fluid and it's also been reported that it's harder to get a good seal. Since the filter itself does so little (the fresh oil is the important bit), I'm not going to be that bothered about changing that early or often, so the plastic one isn't really a problem in that respect, IMO.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Thanks for all the info.
What do members think of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-1x10-Liter-MA...Sw~EtUlDQr
I would use it for flushing only and drain after 100 miles including changing the filter.
Although I appreciate there would be around 2-1/2 to 3 litres of the stuff left in the torque converter, it would give the box a good swill out.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Personally, I wouldn't put ANYTHING except for the correct grade of oil in your gearbox - you will be unable to get it all out again, and will therefore contaminate your new oil, as well as almost certainly causing damage to the internals of the gearbox.

I changed my oils last autumn - used a genuine plastic pan from Dan @ Duckworths, and drained / re-filled oil twice with 200 miles in between fills. Even then you only get about 75% of the oil out, but the box is now smother. 2006 (56 Reg) 4.4 V8 Vogue In Bonatti Grey (Gorgeous!!)

This whole issue of badged fluids confuses the heck out of me. Clearly ZF manufacture transmissions and not fluids and, if we take the 5-speed 5HP24 transmission as an example, in the early days ZF specified Esso ATF LT71141 as the only fluid suitable for the 5HP24 in their official ‘List of Lubricants’ TE ML-11.

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