to everyone who has posted advice, i thank you for what you have said. I have bitten the bullet and put the money pit into a LR specialist ( not robbing main dealers) who have come back with a lovely list for me:

Steering rack needs replacement, this accounts for the knocking from under the vehicle and steering wheel being off centre, as well as a grinding noise on a hard left turn
Brake fluid replacement to deal with odd brake pedal as it has degraded (apparently)
thermostat, temperature sender and coolant need replacement ( where are the thermostat and sender unit on a td6)
INtercooler pipe soft ( not sure which one but may replace with a set of silicon ones)
Rear suspension bush has play (not sure which one yet)
one tyre valve cap is corroded onto the valve

apparently the loud engine noise under acceleration is normal!

i am waiting for quotes from Gratech in Maldon, but considering doing the coolant issues my self and the intercooler pipe.

But how difficult is it to fully replace the brake fluid without any specialist tools? is it a case of open all the nipples, pressurise the the system until air is being expelled, locking off each nipple as it gives out air, then refilling and bleeding up the system?

and finally why did land rover make such great cars that are impossible to work on?

I take it you have never done a brake fluid change before? Basically you add the new fluid into the reservoir and pump/vacuum that through until you see the clean new fluid coming from the bleed nipples. Plenty of YouTube videos available. Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

i have changed fluid on land rovers and early discos and all sorts of older cars, but not sure if the ABS module makes things more complicated

If you push out all of the fluid with air I would think you might get an airlock in the ABS... Possibly. Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

ive not done my rangie, but done many others. there are plenty of kits available. its best to do it with an assistant. first, with a poundshop type gravy baster, or better still a syringe, draw out the old fluid from the reservior. then, when virtually empty, refill with new fluid. open each caliper bleed valve, with a device fitted. either use the air compressor connection type and blow air through, to create a vacuum, and observe clear fluid running through tube to pot etc, for a few seconds. retighten, repeat on all four corners. best to do fronts first. use a ring spanner on nipples, with previous soak with penetrating fluid. or, you can use the oneway valve method, and have you assistant pump pedal, whilst you hold the valve open a tad, and again see clean fluid for a few pumps. repeat all four corners. if you use the old fashioned jar and rubber pipe and undo, shout 'down' ....retighten, and shout 'up' you will be lucky to get it to be any better. this is hard to do. you just need to have plenty of paper roll, fluid, and an hour, to have fresh fluid etc. after each caliper, or whilst waiting, your assistant can observe the fluid level. unlikely to be really low. finally refill and carfully test pedal pressure, before going onto the roadtest!
syringe, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Fluid-Suctio...SwGzlTxWh1
bleeding kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Van-Bike-Bra...SwZ8ZW5xm9
bleeding kit compressor type. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sNEW-BRAKE-CLUTC...SwwpdW8Rlh

Last edited by johnboyairey on 22nd Mar 2016 9:32pm. Edited 1 time in total

When I replaced all my brake pipes (after the ABS module) I used a Gunsons Ezibleed (there are other makes!) this prevented any air getting into the ABS module. If you do this with a closed system, even better, just fire up the Ezibleed and work your way around the nipples (starting at FL first! - read the manual) until you have clean fluid everywhere. (See wiki)

Main thermostat is tucked away under the head at the front of the engine on the right (left as you look at the engine from the front). Lots to take off and remove to gain access. Check the wiki for a howto. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

thanks for the advice, wonder if i could do the thermostat and sender at the same time as the intercooler houses

Remember you have two thermostats, the EGR Stat is on the top of the engine and sticks open. Easy to take off and test, if you can blow through it its stuffed. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Ian, why are you looking at doing the brakes yourself sir?

Way too much to go wrong if your not a confident DIY’er sir... Its NOT an expensive job to have completed (around £100 normally) so why contemplate it sir? Risk to reward etc etc

Secondly, the steering rack will cost a fortune to replace, I would have that double/treble checked if i were you! They are usually a VERY reliable part on the fatty... The outer ball joints knock as do the inners the outers fit too... But most don’t realise the inners are a serviceable part too... Steering wheel being off centre will be tracking incorrectly setup usually... And the grinding noise, i would have the fluid changed twice and check the pump before making any decisions on the rack replacement sir...

Forgot to say, my steering rack used to make a horrible graunching noise when on left turn on a cold morning. I lived with it for a while then it went away for good. Been OK for years. Have expected MOT man to point finger at the rack but has never done so yet YMMV  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I agree with Craig - I'm technically competent enough to bleed brakes, but IMHO not something I want to be messing with - I would rather leave it to someone a little less rusty than me who knows how to deal with seized components etc.

Intercooler hoses are a very easy DIY job - if a little dirty.

Coolant - I've done some basic fault finding - and replaced a couple of pipes, but also given up & sent it to an expert with a ramp before now

How much would you expect to pay for a new steering rack fitted?been told casing cracked on mine 2004 vogue.brought to my attention when inspected becouse hieght adjustment was working dispite motors making a noise.Can you not pick up seconf hand/used or are they likely to be jiggered

Decided to have the brakes bleed by my independent, cost of £100. they first quoted 188+vat but suddenly came down to £100.
Interested in why people think the rack may not need replacing, how do you service the rack in situ and what parts can easilt be replaced? my quote for a rack including fitting came in at 2336. recon racks can be bought from 335, how difficult are they to replace? one report reckons they are not too difficult if you remove the track rod ends.
going to do the thermostat, sensor and coolant myself, do i need red or blue antifreeze?
only other thing to do is rear hub bush which i dont see as being too difficult!

such fun ahead!!

The rack is in 5 parts basically,

From L to R.

Track rod end, inner track rod, rack, inner track rod, track rod end.

All the track rods and track rod ends are replaceable. Inner ones can wear as well as the usual outer ones, and the fluid can be dropped and replaced. Also check all the mounting bolts are tight, I remember reading somewhere that sometimes these can come undone. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

thanks will get it back later then under i go!!