Can't find the answer to this:

Does the little fan in the HEVAC panel power down once the car is locked? I sat in the car for 1 hour last night to see if the little red light went off (which it did after about 17 mins) and the tiny HEVAC panel fan was still running after 1 hour.
Still trying to trace my battery drain
Already changed the FSR but came across a report re the wiring adapter 'YNI500040k' which my vin number falls in but don't know if it's been done (and is no longer available).

Any advice welcomed as its now getting annoying!!!! Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Last edited by Lenb on 15th Jun 2016 9:51am. Edited 1 time in total

This thread says it does shut down after a few minutes: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...-02-a.html Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

A few minutes maybe 5 then it stops.

Clivefog
That's what makes me wonder if mine has had the conversion - it keeps running whilst I'm sitting there even though the 'red light' goes out after the regulation 16 mins. The conversion should have got rid of that.

I've just recharged battery which now reads 12.5V - I've removed fuse 12 (fan stopped and no blower) and will check voltage in an hour or two. If it holds then maybe I've found the culprit - then it'll be "how do I isolate this fan without obsolete conversion?" Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Lenb,

I appreciate your battery voltage is going down but how have you measured your potential battery drain?
If you have just charged your battery it should be reading at least 12.6V and depending on charger type anything up to about 12.8V.
Battery drain can occur internally within the battery itself it doesn't have to be on the cars systems.
Regards the fan, it should obviously switch off as the car shuts down but given it's small power I have to wonder if it would cause a significant drain.
It would be possible to come up with a relatively simple wiring mod to stop it running when the car is locked.
It might be worth in the first instance considering having your battery tested.

Nicedayforit

I had the battery tested at the beginning of the week and it was fine (it's 830 cranking was down to 777) and wasn't showing any bad cells. Admittedly I'm only checking voltage across +ve & -ve posts and not amp in series (easiest way at present). I've checked it over a period of time and of course each time I open up it is bound to drain it a little.
I left the battery for a week disconnected and it didn't loose any charge. Leaving it connected overnight it went down to 11.74V.
It's been an ongoing problem since buying it nearly 2 years ago, FSR replaced, interior bulbs changed to led (disabled son switches lights on and I miss them), Satnav checked (and cd removed), cd cartridge removed, etc etc. So it's now becoming trial and error in desperation - fed up with a flat battery.  Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Ok

Come back if removing fuse 12 seems to resolve your problem and I'll see what I can suggest.
If it doesn't resolve the issue it's usually a case of methodically pulling fuses and checking drain current each time.
Do you happen to know what the current drain is?

You don't happen to have a redundant telephone installation in the car by any chance?

The only way to systematically find a battery drain is to connect an ammeter in series with the battery positive terminal and then pull fuses one at a time until the drain drops to almost zero. When you find the fuse where the drain is you have found the circuit causing the issue. That will give you an idea of where to look next

I did have an old Nokia phone in there, afraid I was lazy and just 'snipped' the wiring

It did loose about .47 volts overnight (about 9 hours) Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Regarding the phone.

As part of the installation in my car which appears to have been the same as yours a "Connect 2" switch box was fitted in the rear compartment.
I had a battery drain initially which I traced to this Connects 2 box.
I found that the box had been subject to water damage. In the box was a printed circuit board on which was mounted 3 miniature relays. On of the relays had suffered corrosion which resulted in it being stuck in the closed position. This relay was the source of my current drain. I removed the box, reconnected a couple of cable connectors - problem solved.
It might be worth a look in the bottom of the rear left compartment to see if such a redundant box as above, possibly a different manufacture, exists and if so look to get rid of it.

I will give that a look, although I've looked for water ingress and can't find any (the TV has stopped working though). Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Re the TV, the screen is blank or noisy? My TV doesn't work but that's because it's analogue and TV here is now digital. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

The TV caused the display to go blank 12 months ago. I bypassed the TV and got the screen back. Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Since removing fuse 12 (HEVAC control panel) I've regularly checked battery voltage and made notes:

13/6/16
12:00 - return home after total 28 mile drive, immediately removed fuse 12 - battery 12.58V
15:15 - battery 12.5V
14/6/16
10:30 - battery 12.34V (standing 19.25 hours). = .008V/hr
15:00 - battery 12.18V (doors open & closed frequently over 2 hours cleaning interior).
15/6/16
09:10 battery 12.14V left overnight with fuse 12 removed. Not driven for 45 hours

So it looks highly likely that the mini fan is the main culprit and that it's possible the conversion using upgrade harness YNI500040K (which is no longer available) has not been done. Basically the mini fan needs to be switched off when key removed. Does anyone know a workaround for this?

Thanks Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

You could certainly switch the mini fan and for that matter the heater/ac fan by simply replicating removing Fuse 12.
This could be achieved in one of two ways.

Remove Fuse 12 and simply put a manual switch and inline fuse in place of it. The manual switch could be placed anywhere you chose. You would need two lengths of 10A cable, a 10A fuse and two male spade connectors.
The male spade connectors would be plugged into Fuse 12 in lieu of Fuse 12.
You then can switch off the fuse 12 circuit when you leave the car.

A more refined way of achieving the switching on and off of Fuse 12 would be to use a relay controlled by an ignition source.
Basically the same as above but with a relay to do the switching instead of a manual switch. I would suggest a 30A relay with an integral fuse, fused at 10A.
The relay could be located below the fuseboard by removing the panel above passengers feet position.
You can get an ignition feed from a fuse on the board by using a piggy back connector to switch the relay.
If you need to know which fuse is ignition controlled let me know and I will go and have a look on my car.
This would mean every time you switch off the ignition the Fuse 12 circuit would be switched off.

Doing either of the above doesn't permanently alter the wiring on the car and could be removed at any time in the future and Fuse 12 re-instated.