Hi All,

Well as per the title really.

I bought what I thought was probably the cheapest 2003 l322 v8 in the country @ £2400. It had an over pressurising problem and if you've been following my other posts, a bit of a problem with the electronics - now solved yeah!!.

So now I've turned my attention to the cooling system. The problem reported by the previous owner (and I've learned not to trust what this guy has said if you've followed my previous posts) is that he bought it knowing it had a cooling problem, he bought it, drove it home some 5 miles, and the coolant expansion tank cap blew steam and coolant everywhere just as he was pulling up at home. He thought head gaskets and decided to offload it onto someone else - enter me.

I've had a block test that came back all clear so no head gasket faults. Now being new to l322 ownership but not to the Range Rover family I've followed the old tried and tested logical approaches to why the coolant seems not to flow around the engine, blocked radiator (might still be the problem as I haven't taken it off yet), faulty thermostat or a blockage in the coolant flow passages. As you are probably and painfully aware the logical approach to l322 ownership doesn't always apply.

I've looked at the entry's in this forum regarding the various coolant problems with this model and there are plenty, but I would like to gauge your views regarding the thermostat. You see I hooked up the IIDtool and read the live values for the coolant temp into the radiator and the temp coming out of the radiator because the top hose, as is always reported by forum posters, is rock hard and too hot to touch but the bottom hose is almost cold. So logically the flow is restricted ie the thermostat isn't opening. So I looked at the temps and going into the radiator it's 106 and coming out 25 so a massive difference and I for one don't think that the radiator is that effective.

So what do you think, could it be the thermostat or am I not waiting long enough for it to open, because it is only 106 and the thermostat is rated at 105 I believe. I've put in some coolant flush to loosen up anything that might be in there and I'll drain it over the next few days but what I did notice is that draining the radiator took a good 10 - 15 minutes and only got out 4 litres, so it could be blocked.

So back to the logical approach, replace the radiator, replace the thermostat, take a good look at the water pump but I did notice coolant moving into the expansion tank from the small bore overflow pipe. And as a side note I am getting warm air inside the car when I move the temps to highs.

But the logical approach is suspect, isn't it? Could it be an airlock? I don't want to blow steam out of the cap again..

After I put the coolant flush I took it out for 10 or so minutes to try and get it up to temperature but the needle didn't move much past cold and as I've said the top hose was, in my opinion, far too hot and far to hard, even though they do run hot and under pressure. Now I'm not averse to getting my hands dirty ( I have owned a few P38s 😇) but my head is starting to hurt and that can't be good...

Regards to all.. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

I'd take the radiator out and test it for flow, if it looks old, replace it, it'll be clogged up at the bottom and cause transmission oil cooler problems too. Then replace the thermostat. Two straight-forward DIY jobs that won't blow the bank.

If that doesn't sort it, move onto the water pump.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi,

I'm just waiting for my viscous fan tool to turn up then I'll do as you suggest, it was just odd that the coolant ran out as a fast drop then a slow trickle, so I do think it's at least sludged up.

So I'm hoping that the coolant flush I've put in does a bit of good.

I'll keep everyone updated as it goes along as this seems to be a continuous problem for some if not most.

Regards to all. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

I haven't had any issues with my l322 but with the classic and the p38 I have had similar issues usually it is crud in the rad it blocks the rad but also moves and blocks in a different place also not sure if the 322 rads are the same internal design but in the p38 there were baffles that could and did come loose so for the sake of your sanity I would as has been said replace rad first good luck

Hi, yes I agree, just waiting for the fan removal tool and off it comes  ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

I vaguely remember that BMW had a problem with the waterpump impeller losing its vanes over times, so turning fine but not moving much water. So I suggest to have a look at that as well but I'm not sure if the same waterpump made its way into the L322. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I would replace the rad, water pump , expansion tank ( genuine part only is a must for this) and mod the thermostat to the lower temp. All fair easy stuff but worthwhile to keep on top of the coolant. V8 or else ...

And check that the tank has a 140kPa cap, not 200. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

I've had a few coolant problems, but mainly due to leaks. If you are not losing significant coolant, then half the battle is won.
The rad comes out easy enough, the water pump, is a bit tricky. You have two metal pipes on the back, they go to the rear y piece that feeds the rear of the engine, sometimes, it hard to get the pipes back into the rear holes, without dislodging the o rings, -(they are at front and back,) so take great caution, to somehow, not let the pipes come out of the rear, like don't let them come forward by 5 MM. At the same time! as you are pulling water pump off. Lube them on reassembly with some vasalene. Even easIer is to change the thermostat..just four bolts. (Soak them first though. ) but there is a modified thermostat, for about £50 from a guy in Germany, and it cuts the running temps down to 85 degrees. Easy job.
I think you could have a stuck thermostat, or the pump is shot. Like the impeller has come loose. Either way, you could do no wrong, ( as a temporary) to change thermostat, maybe then, remove rad, check for debris, who knows what has been put in. They are about £150 I think. Don't bother with a secondhand one, as so many people have problems with rads leaking. The pump is about £75 too. use the mini bleed valve on the tank, to help fill it and run it up, then tighten it.
One other tip. If you remove a rad hose, they go brittle, so, slide the clip, and don't twist it, they don't twist. You have to wobble it gently. Again a bit of vasalene, as each hose has an o ring. But slide the clip back on and then seat the hose, so you hear and feel the clip reseat, otherwise, they pop off if you slide (after) them and they don't seat.

£2400 -

Hi Guys and thank you all for your excellent advice, it's all been taken onboard.

I took the radiator off today and noticed this when I looked in the top hose,

That stuff is known as 'Harry Monk's sperminating high-protein cream'

You might want to try and flush through your engine, before it dries, and the goop sticks. Maybe try and run a hose pipe through the rad hoses. If you can clear the rad a bit, maybe, refit it, and fill and run it a few times, as you don't really want to circulate any more man-gravy through the new rad. Don't worry about gasket leaks for now. Just de-goop it. There is quite a bit of water, between the heads, and in the block.
I think you might be quite lucky. I bet the rad has been super-blocked, and the rest is localising the heat build up.

That stuff is known as 'Harry Monk's sperminating high-protein cream'

Classic

I gave the engine a good flushing with the hose just to be sure.

I have to say in all of my years of spannering I've never seen that stuff anywhere near an engine, well except maybe when I got too close to that Ferrari 458 ..........

Regards to all ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Looks like it was put in to seal the radiator. So, maybe that explains its presence.
Usually it's some k seal or bars leak. Or wonder weld. And that is sort of brown. Or red.
People used to talk about, 'putting an egg' in. But that would be even uglier. And would stink.
As you know, there's only one way to fix something, and that's to fix it, not bodge it. But it seems your gain in the long run.

I wonder, in Co Antrim, are these cars high taxed? I (being an Englishman) seem to remember hearing stories of high taxed l322 rangies, with no rear seats!

County Antrim, I've no idea. I live County Durham up by Newcastle upon Tyne, ha way the lads and all that.......... ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

johnboyairey wrote:

I wonder, in Co Antrim, are these cars high taxed? I (being an Englishman) seem to remember hearing stories of high taxed l322 rangies, with no rear seats!