Thanks guys. That makes sense, I will give it a go tomorrow.

did you guys drill out the rivet that holds the camera housing to the spoiler is it needed? If so did you put a new rivet on at the end?

A camera arrived off the Bay today so I removed the Spoiler, disconnecting the plugs to camera and brake light, once inside I set about trying to disassemble the original camera, this didn't go well as it refused to unclip without breaking the housing!
Undeterred I removed all the original stuff and cut the cables and spliced in the new camera soldering the wires, using the braided coax as the earth and soldering the black wire from the new camera to this the "live" to the other wire and the power and earth to the supply plug. Plugged it into the RR and switched on and selected Rev, the screen now gives a picture but it's in Black and White and the top 1/2 " of screen is distorted?. Does this mean the "New" camera is duff or is not compatible do you reckon??? If I switch on TV mode screen is fine and full colour picture!
I've stuck new camera ( it came with bracket) to spoiler with 3M tape and put it all back together for time being but would like a better picture eventually.
Any ideas???

i think you'll find that the camera has to be a NTSC type and not a PAL version..... ... - .- -.




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I've ordered another camera using the link this time as that appears to be NTCS and other chaps have had success with that one, would it not being NTCS explain the odd image it's generating, hopefully get it right next time! Cheers for help.

Just checked the spec of the camera I've used and sure enough it's PAL not NTCS that was something I'd not even thought about, well I live and learn, thanks for that insight Stan.

On the older cars (BMW) you can change the camera type (NTSC / PAL) with NavCoder, I haven't looked to see if it's possible to do this with the IID tool, might be worth an investigation There might even be the the Ford equivalent out there  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Stan is spot on, has to be NTSC. In fairness majority of folks don't have IID or similar (as I don't) so it's not as easy to swap over. Is this where I put the car details and a bit about myself ?........

Does anyone have a close up of how they soldered the coax wires and to which on the new camera? When you look at the coax it has a outer core and a very thin inner, which get soldered to which? thx

No close up pic, however I retained the LR plugs and chose to cut the £6 ebay camera. The only tricky bit which seems odd if your not an electrical techie (like me) is the neg soldered to the coax shield. I'd never done that, but worked on my camera wasn't working anyway so had nothing to lose. Is this where I put the car details and a bit about myself ?........

The second camera arrived today ( as per link to it earlier in post) so I removed spoiler again and removed the PAL camera and wired in the NTCS camera, this time I've gone from LR cable to the Phono plugs so I can just plug the camera in if I need to swap it again in the future. Hey presto proper picture now so that was the problem. All got do tomorrow is fit new camera to duff ones bracket and fix that in place on spoiler, doing away completely with LR one, should look neat once done and easy to replace if it ever fails again, going order a spare one anyway as there so cheap.
Will post sone pics up hopefully also.

Please post pics when you can thanks.

Forever:- to answer your question, once you cut the LR coax, strip the outer black shield back about an inch to expose braided shield, with a pin poke it towards the cut end till the strands separate, twist these together and apply solder. Cut back white insulation of white centre cable to expose wires solder these. On new camera bare insulation off two wires after trimming back outer black covering ( my wires were black/ red) I slipped heat shrink over these wires then just solder black to braided wire on LR cable and red to white one, slide heat shrink over the soldered joints and warm with fag lighter, then tape whole cable with insulation tape. Job done,

Thanks very helpful...

n1cktdv8 wrote:

Stan is spot on, has to be NTSC. In fairness majority of folks don't have IID or similar (as I don't) so it's not as easy to swap over.

No IID

Best tool in the box when it comes to living with a ffrr, might appear to be a tad expencive... but it doesn't take too many trips to the stealers to justify the outlay  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!