Just finished up installing a 10% pulley. Initial impressions are like everyone else - feels smoother/lighter/less sluggish. Never really though I could describe this vehicle as sluggish

I haven't ran out the rpms yet but it jumps right to 10psi on my gauge vice 8 before. Not sure if the gauge is accurate or not.

Cool, did you get pics of the install or of the parts please?

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RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L SDV8 - 2013 - Indus Silver, on Almond.
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Was it difficult to fit? Did you just buy the bigger pulley or the whole snout with the pulley fitted?

Believe the snout needs lathing down for it to fit correctly, doesn't it? Jordan


'56 SC 4.2 ‘21-Current
'56 SC 4.2 ‘16-‘18

Kyle can i assume that it was the 10% reduction pulley - who did it for you. Did you have it remapped; who did the remap? Please let us know about the numbers i.e. 0-60mph, power, torque, etc.

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Last edited by stan on 16th Feb 2017 11:38am. Edited 1 time in total

JPHC wrote:

Was it difficult to fit? Did you just buy the bigger pulley or the whole snout with the pulley fitted?

Believe the snout needs lathing down for it to fit correctly, doesn't it?

This is a wealth of info on the subject:

http://powerhouse.uk/content/jaguar-perfor...ulleys.php

I've been considering this upgrade for a while. It has great power to £ ration in my eyes. I initially wanted the 6% pulley which they do for around £160. Apparently you can slacken the belt, pull the pulley off and fit a new 6% one yourself without too much hassle. All you need is a bearing puller or something similar to get the pulley off, which can be a job (who knows until you do it!)

But for the same price you can get the 10% pulley, which is just a little too tempting! but as above, the end of the snout needs lathing. I believe powerhouse provide a service where they send you a refurbed snout, with the lathed end and the pulley already professionally fitted and then all you have to do it swap the snout's over and send them your old one back.
I believe this is around £200, so a cheap option too. However i think i would want to keep the original parts incase i ever wanted to go back. Plus i've really no idea how difficult it is to gain access to this and swap it.

Perhaps someone here has done one of these mods and could chime in?

I will contact them and ask about the fitting process and report back.

6%
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-4-2-...SwcLxYJLE2

10%
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-4-2-...Yjo6oQhw8w Jordan


'56 SC 4.2 ‘21-Current
'56 SC 4.2 ‘16-‘18

My 4.2 has had the 10% pulley mod, coupled to a remap and improved air filter, for 3 years and I wholeheartedly recommend it.

Low-end response and flexibility is significantly improved and in-gear response at pretty much any speed in any gear in almost instantaneous compared to how they are when standard.

They're not infallible and I occasionally find myself wanting even more power. I have a car that is even quicker in response and another that has more alacrity at higher rpm, but that's modern engines and the RR's bulk taking hold on both counts.

Economy hasn't suffered and you'll enjoy the relative delights of trickling along on a thimble-full of throttle at low-ish speeds and then gaining speed effortlessly with a twitch of your right ankle.

RPI Engineering do a lovely-sounding exhaust for these that keeps the twin rear pipes but with a burble to die for. It's massively tempting, but there's something rather classy about the SC's restrained woofling. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

I fitteded myself over the course of 4 days including waiting for parts and installing a new main drive belt and idler/tensioner pulleys. However the main drive stuff took less than 60 minutes after exposing everything that far. The fan + fan shroud was the most annoying to remove. You'll have to manipulate the upper AC line or remove it like the manual states. The pulley puller I bought required me to remove the odd jaguar water outlet/thermostat housing - so I needed some suppose seals that took me a day to track down due to doing it over the weekend. I bought the pulley on eBay for pretty cheap, someone else that bought but never installed. I 'rented' the snout machining tool from eBay as well for ~$50 US, the seller was 'local' to my area of the US.

I've done no other tuning aside from making my own intake tube to remove all the baffles in OE one.

Click image to enlarge

Kyle,

Fantastic info thanks.

I spoke again, to PowerHouse. They confirmed that the only difference in fitting the 10% and 6% is the lathing of the snout.
So seems mad to go to all that work and not go the extra mile and trim the snout and fit the 10%. A big job regardless.

They mentioned that a normal bearing puller simply isn't up to the job and that you need something that can distribute the load round the circumference of the old pulley. The pulling tool they have looks similar in design to yours:

Ok, i got the pictures organized better now. I had originally uploaded them with my phone. Tried rotating some of them but gave up.

After doing a 8 hour round trip this past weekend it seems like something pulls boost or belt slips? If I mash pedal to the floor and wind out the rpms in the lower gears, boost will go up to 10psi on my gauge and then back off to 8psi - not sure I can really feel this in the power band. Also thought the supercharger bypass was all mechanical - so drop in pressure would indicate....belt slip? It's on there pretty tight so I don't really know or understand yet. Need to drive it more and research the bypass valve a bit.

Also notice that if I just ease into the throttle to 80% or so, the boost holds 10psi without dropping.

In general, before the pulley this truck just feels weird if you go straight to full throttle vs easing into it. Maybe trans computer protecting things?

Oh, also you can prevent removing the water pipe if you use a tool designed like this:

Click image to enlarge

Would love more info on the tool used for the milling.....

I've read somewhere that when you change the pulley on the SC and get towards the top of the power band the Supercharger is at it's peak before you get to full rpm, if you go a bit above it you do loose a bit of boost so that could be your problem.

If it's driving properly I wouldn't worry about it to much.

Enjoy it

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Machining tool I used was this one:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Snout-Machining-Tool...Ciid%253A2