I'm looking to see if anyone has any recommendations for an engine builder or supplier for my TDV8. It threw up an EGR fault code so I replaced both....only to find out that half of one EGR valve was missing.

Anyway, to cut a long story short I either need an engine, or I need mine rebuilt. It's a nice 07 plate car with a good spec....just not too sure if I should do the job or just sell it on for someone else to tackle. There are folks I have spoken to on ebay...but they are all a long way from me and I need someone I can trust as it's a lot of dosh....

If anyone has any experience then I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance, Mark.

Mark


I feel your pain, I have been down this road now twice with TDV8's my only advice is do not use any of the Glasgow or Midlands based companies... all will offer fixed cost rebuilds and none will last any time.

If you can find some one to build an engine I have lots of parts lefts over from my build, which I did myself, I still have three complete units, but all will need rebuilding.

Land rover were around £8k + vat last time I looked for the full engine, block crank pistons heads and oil system with a bottom end being around the £5k region.

second-hand engines are a total lottery and seem to be £2,500 upwards.

there is a big gap in the market place for quality rebuilt engines in my view, lost are failing, dropped EGR valves are not uncommon or the shafts spin a bearing or the Turbo's take the unit out, shame because when there running there a nice place to be. 4.4'S don't seem to be any better, I have two engines in bits.


Have you stripped yours at all yet?

Good luck

"Most" of the places on eBay are the rip off firms, whatever place you find make sure you do lots of googling on not only the name but the address and phone number as well, they change name at the drop of a hat and pretend they are a different company just before the flood of bailiffs turn up...... Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Not sure if they do these engines but talk to C&K Engineering in High Wycombe. I used them for many years on a multitude of engines I had in various rally cars. Their work was nothing short of fantastic. I recall they even made a set of main end bearing from scratch, i.e. molten white metal, for a block which had been line bored and was thus oversized on the outside of the mains.

Not cheap, but never stupidly priced either. I would use them again for sure.

I've also been down this road. In the end I opted to do the rebuild myself. Nobody wanted to touch the TDV8.

I had to replace two x Pistons and the Cylinder head, along with the EGR valves.
I've still not started the engine so I'm rather nervous!! Time will tell.

If you want I can give you a ring and tell you what to expect.

Guys,

Thanks for the responses thus far....it's much appreciated. I'm really fed up with the whole Range Rover scenario. Like you say, when they are running its a nice place to be and I love them. I am in the horrible situation now where I have this car in it's current condition, and also an 05 SC car that I loaned to my brother which, after about 8weeks, he managed to overheat it (ignored the low coolant warning). How unlucky can one person be? And, to make katters worse, this car has been to some "Landrover Specialists" and had a full engine rebuild, only to be put back in the car and nobody can get it to run. I just feel like throwing the towel in.

It is however, nice to hear that I am not alone in this though...although I'm really sorry for those of you it has happened to. I haven't stripped my engine yet, other than rocker cover off to shove a camera down no 3 cylinder (this seems to be the one it's failing on). The piston looks black and spattered with metal, which I assume is the missing EGR vale parts.

What does one do? It's probably a £10k car....is it worth spending £4-5k on again? And if these engines are so sh*t I don't even know if I want it back....my confidence is at an all time low. I saw a car the same year as mine and in need of an engine go for £5150 on ebay. I just don't know whether to cut my losses, flog it and go get a Landcruiser.

I'd love to discuss any experience you guys have in rebuilding this myself....costs, difficulty, special tools etc. From what you guys have said...I don't think spending £3-4k on some fly-by-night outfit is a worthwhile proposition. I might consider it myself though....

Yours,

Sick in Scotland.

Fella, We've all been there in some way or other so don't be too despairing. The 'charger can't have too much wrong - check the basics like cam timing. Just remember, Suck Squeeze Bang Puff and as long as it's all in the right sequence it will run.

As for the TDV8 I would rebuild the thing myself. You genuinely don't need to be a genuis either, this is not rocket science, just nuts and bolts. I'm a computer bod but I've build dozens of engines over the years, mostly petrols but I have done a 300TDi as well. And yes, I've ballsed up a couple too

Now, rebuilding engines is actually relatively easy. But, you need a number of things.
Tools - stuff like piston ring compressors, Bore micrometers, Honing tool etc. Most can be hired.
Engine stand. Essential and relatively cheap, especially if you can find one on the bay.
Engine crane to lift the thing out. Can be hired.
A clean workshop with a good sized bench to lay it all out.
A parts washing tank with the proper fluid.
A rugged digital camera. Photos are so helpful in remembering what goes where.

You also need the specs so you can measure what you have, and a good supplier for the parts. Ferraris Piston services used to be excellent for the internals.

the thing about doing stuff yourself is you *know* it's done right. And once you've done it you're never afraid of the thing again.

Well. First off. I have timing tools, which I can lend to you to get yours going! I'd need them back though as I've a block here which I might like to put some heads on!

Apart from that it's not the hardest. The workshop manual can be downloaded off the internet, you need a torque wrench which goes as low as 1N. I bought mine on eBay.

You will need a used piston or two including caps. Replacement bearings and piston rings. You will need a honer (Cheap). You will also needs Cylinder Head Gasket and some replacement bolts for same (Torqued). Oh and also the head! Cam should be ok, but nonetheless I bought mine complete. The RR sport one will fit. Likewise with the bolts to put the gears on the cam, all though you might manage to get away with these, one of them shouldn't be removed when taking the cam off! Finally some EGR valves!

That's really it. As I said I can give you a call. It's going to be the same outcome as mine.

I also have a piston ring compressor which I don't need. I can send that over aswell! Infact if you want I can lend you the whole lot if it's of any help.

If we can find someone to do a decent rebuild I have at least two core units that could be rebuilt, as people say its not rocket science, but getting new bits that are accurate is a problem, along with a good machine shop, the cranks are a mare to grind.

But its telling that all the companies that do the early diesel engines or the V8 petrol units have not stepped up and taken on a proper rebuild.


its really the same position at the TDV6 Disco/sport units, but they are now available through Bearmarch I think it is doing exchange units.

you also need to think about doing Turbo's at same time, but if it was me I would be pulling the unit out to strip it and see the extent of the damage.


Good luck with it.

Ring Engineering in Hayes are exceptional chaps.

Thanks guys for all your offers of kit and advice. I'm still agonising over this. Can I ask a few more questions of those of you that have done this before?

1) roughly how long does it take to get the engine out (assuming I have access to ramp, engine crane and anything else that is needed?

2) who would you recommend for parts if I did rebuild it? I'm hoping I might just need a piston, conrod (to be on the safe side), cylinder head (drivers side) and, as stated above....at least one turbo for that side. Plus the obvious gasket set.

The car is still running, but it's no 3 that seems to be damaged where (I guess) the EGR went through and out the other side. Maybe I'm being naïve thinking that these parts are (mostly) what I need. This is all assuming that the bore is not knackered of course.....

I guess part of the decision is a rough idea of parts cost and then time to do it...

Meanwhile I will track down Ring Engineering and have a chat with them.

Engine will come out in half a day. You would need to get the air-con evacuated before starting, don't just let the gas escape to atmosphere.

Parts, any of the well known brands will be fine. I tend to use FPS. On a personal note I don't like CORDS piston rings but normal ones will be fine.

As for what you need, you won't know until it's all in bits. You think it's only one piston so there would be that, a full set of piston rings, main ends, big ends, thrust washers, gaskets and whilst it's all down that far I would stick a new oil pump in.

You have to take one of the heads off, and the sump. I'd do the other head, remove all the pistons, hone the bores and refit 7 old pistons with new rings and one new piston. Note when fitting new rings to a used piston you should clean the ring grooves out thoroughly. I use an old ring to do this - break it in half and use the straight end (where the gap was) to scrape out the groove. Hold old rings with a cloth, they are razor sharp. As for replacing the con rod, you won't need to. If it was bent you would really know about this already. You get a new gudgeon pin with the new piston, that should be enough.

The crank will most likely be OK and not require grinding. Hire a micrometer to measure the journals to be sure. Measure both size and ovality.

Whilst the heads are off you may consider having the valve seats and stem seals done. Probably not essential if you're replacing the head where damage might have been done, but it would make the entire engine like a reconditioned unit.

Cam chain tensioner. I'd replace that for sure. Possibly the chain as well if it looks at all stretched. They probably only come as a complete kit anyway.

Likely parts costs won't come in much less than a grand. One of the downsides to 8 cylinder engines, there's 8 of everything But, you will definitely know how well the job has been done rather than buying an unknown EBAY engine.

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Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Ok, thanks again for the info. As you say.....eight of everything is a bit of a nightmare scenario. You are right....no point being in that far and not doing the other head and the oil pump etc. I'll get the bits I know of now priced up...I'm hoping crank, rods etc are all good.

I did a bit more digging on Ring Engineering (thanks for the heads up) and spoke to them a couple of times on the phone. They look like a credible outfit...certainly the best option so far if going down the route of having someone else do it.