Can anyone identify the possible cause of the following :

Car unused for 3 weeks due to cowboys at the MOT garage. Few days before I took it to a reputable MOT station I started it up just to make sure battery wasn't flat. Unlocked it but noticed the indicators didn't flash and the key took an extra attempt to turn. The car fired up fine first time with no hesitation. Let it run for 20 mins then locked it up until the MOT. Garage also replaced some ball joints before the test.
Now it has come up with suspension inactive with no lights on the ride height dial. Turned it lock to lock but no reset. Pulled fuse 18 with regards to the stiff key in ignition but again no cure. Stopped at Halfords for a battery test which came up all fine as did the alternator. But occasionally the battery light flickers at idle and tonight the power steering was heavy on a short journey to the horses. Finished at the horses and drove home and the steering was normal. I did have an alternator failure recently and I found a mobile mechanic who claimed to know what he was doing but left me doubting his ability after having the car for near on 2 weeks after ordering the wrong part. He replaced the alternator with a reconditioned one despite being told to put a new one on but he has never billed me for it. The failed alternator made a god awful noise with a continuous battery light so I'm fairly sure a replacement has been installed??

So any ideas or somebody reliable and who doesn't wear a Stetson and cowboy boots in the Dorset area who can help?

Battery / Alternator

Check voltage both .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Oh and the air bag light lit up for about a minute on tonight's journey

I had the battery checked at Halfords and it said all working fine. I'll take it back to the garage who did the ball joints for a second opinion though

Ok so first things first, grab a voltage tester and check for yourself the idling voltage at the battery - do this with no drain i.e. no heater, lights or the like, the voltage should be 14v to 14.4 at tick over and 12.6v - 12.8v at rest and if it isn't then your battery or alternator is at fault. Most places like Halfords treat the Range Rover like a normal car (fools) where 12.5v to 13v is sufficient. Our Range Rovers are very sensitive to voltage drops and can throw up all sorts of weird and wonderful errors.

After that if all is well with the voltage do a battery disconnect, following the instructions in the wiki, and carry out an ecu reset, again in the wiki and see if the faults happen again.

Lastly if all of the above don't sort it out then find a reputable auto electrician and get him to properly test your alternator.

Regards and good luck.. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Thanks for the info - I think I saw 12.4v on his meter when he connected it with engine off but couldn't tell you the other readings as I was sat in the car revving it and putting lights/blowers on.

My battery was at 12.4v engine off and only 13.4v engine running so I bought a new battery and it showed the same. I then bought a new alternator from these guys and all has been well since....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281589550173

But do a reset etc just for good measure.. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Little update ....

Driving past local Kwik fit garage so thought I'd ask them to have a test of the battery. All fine sir.
What voltage does it show with the car running (I knew he couldn't tell me as the car was never started) . Computer says battery fine and it'll only test the alternator if there is low battery voltage to begin with.
Battery tester purchased and it's showing 12.9v switched off and 13.8 running so it would appear the alternator is at fault. Also the remote key fob now isn't unlocking despite a new battery today.....is all of these symptoms the result of a duff alternator??

It's looking like it.

I'm a cheaper option first kind of guy (just ask the wife 🤓) so have a look at the alternator multiplug for corrosion on the pins and make sure the other connector with the nut is tight and clean as well. Have a look at the main battery connector on the bulkhead in front of the battery for tightness and corrosion and if all is ok then I can only suggest that it could mean a new alternator. Unfortunately these things are very awkward to track down and could either be something very small And cheap or large and expensive.

Have you tried syncing the key again or even an ecu reset?

Cheers ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current