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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 
Rear Hub Knuckle Bush Movement

Good afternoon all. I have just replaced the OSR top hub knuckle bush, complete with new bolt and nut. My concern is that when the hub is not under the load of the vehicle the Bush moves on the bolt!!. I have read some of the threads on here but none confirm if this is correct. Vehicle is a 2007 MY S/C. Many thanks.

Post #448695 22nd Aug 2017 2:04pm
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Hi,
I changed both rear upper ones last year and didnt notice any undue movement. It sounds quite puzzling,
the outer body should be a tight press fit in the hole on the wheel hub lug.

The inner part of the knuckle (this protrudes either side of the main knuckle body) each end should be touching
or have minimum clearance gap with the upper suspension arm lugs when bolted up. Otherwise, if the upper part of the wheel assy can move back and forwards, in theory can change your castor angle.

Im assuming you have a gap in that area, if thats correct how big is the gap approximately?.
It might be possible to shim it by taking the bolt out and fitting a washer in the gap, bolt up and reset your camber angle.

Peter

NB: Nice choice of car by the way Thumbs Up .

Post #448774 22nd Aug 2017 10:57pm
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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 

Strider.

Thank you for your reply and the information. I can only think that the bush may be at fault as the movement laterally on the bolt is around 5-6mm, enough to may a sound when applying the EPB or on suspension articulation. Am I correct in thinking you can only put the special bolt, washer and nut on one way. I have tried to look for the fitting of these in my Offical LR repair manual and Microcat, but not conclusive.

John

Post #448791 23rd Aug 2017 8:48am
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Hi John,

Firstly, a gap of about 5mm is way way too much. If i remember correctly the material thickness of the 2 upper suspension fork arms is about 5-6mm each side. I cannot believe that the contact surfaces have worn that much. When I fitted mine I had to lever the bush into place between the fork arms (suspect they close up when bolt is tightened).

Secondly, you are correct, the cam bolt can only be fitted one way, the head of the bolt facing towards the front of the car, (the excentric diameter of the integral washer on the head locates in the elongated recess of the forward facing upper suspension fork arm, (by rotating the bolt in the recess location gives you a simple cam action enabling the camber setting to be adjusted). This is for the drivers side, I cant remember if the passenger side is the same side, just look for the recess, thats where the bolt head fits.

Camber setting for our car is minus 1 Degree, plus or minus 45 minutes (top angled inwards towards the centre of car). To set it I used a camber gauge with a magnetic base that sticks to the brake disc at the top, (done on flat ground with car at normal ride height).

Finally, I would question if you have fitted the correct knuckle bush, I bought mine from Duckworths, I opted for the Lemforder ones : Part Number RHF 000260G which Dan stocks.
I object to payiing extra for a LR box as a lot of LR parts are Lemforder or Delphi.

Hope this helps you

Peter

Post #448803 23rd Aug 2017 11:49am
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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 

Peter. Many thanks for the great information. I will purchase another Bush first to see if that is the problem. Am I correct in thinking that the special washer fits on the outside of the upper arm to mimic the bolt head?

John.

Post #448820 23rd Aug 2017 1:31pm
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Hi John,

Yes you are correct, the cam washer sits on the outside of the arm and mimics the bolt head cam.

I dug out my receipt for the parts to do the upper knuckle joints, its up to you but its good practice to replace both sides together:-

LRHF 000260G..... BUSH NON-GENUINE X 2 (If you buy from Lemforder supplier Part No: 28881 01)
LRYP 501150........BOLT X 2
LRGI 000012........WASHER (CAM) X 2
LRYH 501100........NUT FLANGED X 2


KNUCKLE BUSH SIZES (Lemforder catalogue)
Fitting Position: Rear Axle, Upper, Left and right
Mounting Type: Rubber-metal Bearing
Length: 53,4 mm
Outer diameter: 45,2 mm
Inner Diameter: 14,1 mm


Good Luck

Peter

Post #448848 23rd Aug 2017 7:48pm
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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 

Peter.

Thanks for the additional information. I am a little confused as the email notification I received and the posted reply by you have a differently worded opening sentence!. I have ordered some Lemforder bushes. I have new bolts, washers and nuts. All with the same part numbers as you quote. Fingers crossed.

John

Post #448913 24th Aug 2017 8:34am
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Senior moment Thumbs Up

Post #448938 24th Aug 2017 1:15pm
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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 

Replaced the bush today with a Lemforder one. Now all ok. The bush that I had fitted was faulty, the inner section was moving back and forth within the outer section. Not sure of the make but will return to the supplier for a refund and to find out the make. Have you any experience of replacing a rear diff? Mine appears to have play/noise in/from the driveshaft output bearings.

Post #449148 26th Aug 2017 1:36pm
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Hi John,
Good news that you finally got it sorted. In answer to your question about Diffs, yes but not on the L322.
I replaced both the front and rear diffs plus both prop shafts on my Classic RR.

As it had a live rear axle (long hub shafts that engaged in the centre diff), the set up on the L322 is totally different with its drive shafts. If its an electronic diff (mine is), i would imagin its expensive to replace, unless you try a breakers. Roughly how much radial play does the output shaft have (in degrees) and does it move axially?.

You might be lucky and the bearing could be a taper one that just needs re-shimming /re-tightening. Id be very interested to see what you find as we both have the same car.

Maybe there is someone on here who has tackled the same problem and could point you in the right direction.

Good Luck
Peter

Post #449214 26th Aug 2017 10:13pm
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Classic888



Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: East Yorkshire & Hertfordshire
Posts: 230

United Kingdom 

I am yet to fully investigate the "noise" from the rear, but during the bush replacement I moved the drive shaft - diff end- up and down and there was some movement. However, I need to get it on a four poster ramp and investigate properly, as I have been informed it needs to be done with the shafts in the level position. Fortunately I have access to a fully equipped workshop.

I had a Classic for 10 years up until two years ago, it was one of the first EFi models. Great vehicle and gave me the opportunity learn to weld!!

Post #449350 28th Aug 2017 4:58pm
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Strider



Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 498

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Regarding welding I know exactly what you mean, I ended up buying a Mig Welder, tried gas bottles but ended up using cored 0.8 wire. When I sold the bus it was on its second set of outer sills. They certainly get in your blood thats for sure.

Post #449371 28th Aug 2017 7:54pm
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