Bought just over year ago, has done 140k, g/box changed by previous owner (not sure mileage), but think it's done somewhere between 30-50k since.

Wondering if worthwhile attempting oil check and service of trans, or too far gone already?

How far should I go... Would it also need TC? Car pulls ok generally (slight occasional slipping) and changes thru gears no issues.

Until that is, got stuck in rush hour traffic in london the other day. Once out of town performed better and would get up to speed on motorways etc but was moving away very slowly (slipping) in london traffic. Tried it today, seems ok again although didn't drive far. Located East Herts. Any advice appreciated.

Could be hot oil in the transmission

Blocked main radiator
Blocked oil cooler .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Joe, nice one. I'll check into that perspective and report back.

There's no sign of engine overheating. But when driving in traffic the fans seem to blow like a jet engine and seems to make it more laboured until some cool air reaches in, but never felt it to be engine. Maybe g/box has an oil cooler? Might just be full on gunge in trans of course

Yes, common fault on the car, bottom of main radiator gets blocked up with stuff, then can't feed cooling water to the transmission oil cooler (tucked away under the alternator). New radiator normally resolves this, a fairly straight forward job. (see wiki)

Similarly the transmission oil cooler can get bunged up over time. This too can be replaced, not quite as easy, but howto done on a V8 on the wiki to give an idea of what is involved.

However, sorting both of these may only delay the inevitable  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Good one! I’m not getting any ‘Trans Overheat’ messages on display, (as discussed by RRPhil on various discussions). Possibly drain/flush rad and refill w/ coolant may possibly determine if lower rad is sludgeless?

Spoke to a local transmission co in Ware who simply said it needs gearbox rebuilding. Tho if the means to allow trans to operate in desired temp and breath is restricted - this could be short term and expensive solution (they quoted me £2.5k without even seeing it)

£2.5k is about right  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Haha, yes imagine it's the difference between a g/box 'rebuild' that's had a hose down and new fluids - to one that's had all the valves, bands and splines etc tested/replaced as necessary. I've seen recon units for sale fitted for £1k!

Going to take it to Stephens engineering in Ware tomorrow to get them to check it out, as all of a sudden it's driving quite alright again. I think your idea of the rad blocking the oil cooler Joe is appearing more and more likely. Just depends how much damage its done. Tho when not stuck in traffic, seems to be driving and changing gear fine. Have to say I'm loathed to fix something, unless it's broke. Mainly because I am!

Thanks for your great advice I owe you a drink

Joe90 wrote:

Could be hot oil in the transmission

Blocked main radiator
Blocked oil cooler

I think I would be looking elsewhere for my servicing etc.
From RAVE:
"The fluid cooler is located on the left hand side of the engine and is attached to the sump near the front of the engine.
The cooler is cooled by engine coolant which flows in a water jacket around cores within the cooler body.
Transmission fluid enters the cooler and flows through the cores where it is cooled by the engine coolant. The fluid
leaves the cooler and is passed back to lubricate the transmission before it returns to the transmission sump.
The fluid cooler receives its engine coolant supply from the radiator via a hose into a quick release fitting on the side
of the cooler. The coolant flows through the cooler and exits via another hose on the forward face of the cooler, where
it is passed through the engine coolant circuit."

PS. I suppose it is "air cooled" in the same way that the engine is "air cooled" by air passing around the radiator.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Have to say, it surprised me as this company (Stephens Engineering, Ware, Herts) has been recommended on these forums by members. The next obvious question it raises is, did they even change the oil and filter?

Tho reckon they have done it. Just puzzling a known specialist garage w/ 40 yrs experience isn't aware the oil cooler isn't water cooled and fed by radiator? Still if ain't broke, don't fix it.

Last edited by Lee Marsh on 4th Nov 2017 3:06pm. Edited 1 time in total

As you are doing reasonably serious annual miles and the car mileage is in the zone where engine and gearbox radiator trouble can be expected its not worth messing about. Change both radiator and transmission cooler for OEM quality replacements and stop worrying.

Trying to run an L322 as if you are eaking out another 10,000 miles out of a crusty old Sierra just doesn't work. Especially if you are paying garage servicing rates. You really have to get into the maintainece by mileage mode and accept that when it gets into the zone for whatever problem has surfaced you replace all the likely to fail soon or appropriate subsystem parts in one hit. Then put enough miles on to get your moneys worth. Fixing as and when will cost about treble!

Clive

It's done less than 3,000 mls in last year, maybe that's a lot? If I'm going long distances I use a different car. And besides even it had half the mileage, it wouldn't any different a scenario. It also doesn't therefore suggest anyone should spend willy nilly, without properly identifying what's the cause.

That said, many parts are way more reasonable than OEM Land Rover parts. By the sounds mate your running a brand new car, so money is of no object. People do like to show off how much money the spend

We are trying to help Lee so be cool!

Clive runs an '04 so by no means a new car.

You have clearly been ill-advised by your garage regarding the transmission cooling setup on a TD6.

We have suggested some possible solutions to minimise the "slipping" problems you are having, based upon the information supplied. Hot oil in the transmission is most likely caused by the cooling issues offered above. The radiator and the oil cooler do get clogged up.

The argument of OEM vs 3rd party parts is moot, and an ongoing one on the forum (suspension and steering parts in particular)

You have a choice, I guess, replace the parts suggested and see what you get, can't do any harm (other than to your pocket!), or wait until you are stranded with no drive somewhere (it just happens, no warning, I know!). i am not saying this is the solution, just a part of the problem with the TD6 chocolate gearbox. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Ok apologies to Clive if I jumped the gun and misinterpreted his comments. They are expensive cars to run, of that there's no getting round. I'm sure the OEM vs motor factor debate will rattle on and is as varied as the parts themselves.

If its worth anything mine has done 150k and is 10 years old I have put 90k on in 3and a bit years and tend to over service that is preventative maintenance. There is a wealth of knowledge on here especially common faults I have been caught a couple of times but usually I am in front of the curve so as to speak and replace bits that should be about to or could fail - I have run these for years and they are reliable if you look after them my take would be change the rad and pipework to get the gearbox oil down to s decent temp - its not money wasted its money invested and takes a potential worry away
Good luck sure you will fix it