Is there a list of all the weird faults and symptoms a marginally weak/aging battery will cause?

Anything and everything really  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

thats so true Alan..  ... - .- -.




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Well that narrows it. So if the shop battery tester reports it tested good but is showing signs of aging is that enough to warrant a new one?

Abso”bloody”lutely sir...

They don’t need much of an excuse to need a new battery

OK. I now feel better about spending money on something that isn't technically broken.

If I leave mine for a few days I get HDC inactive but it goes when the battery has been charged so I hooked it up to the CTEC and left it overnight , when I started it next morning I got the time showing on the display which I've never had before

What problems or strange symptoms are you experiencing?

I changed the battery on our TDV8 just before Christmas.
The battery was OK according to voltage tests, but was unable the start the car after being left uncharged / not run for 2~3 days.
The Sat Nav & radio would randomly not work & when locked after just opening the door without starting the engine, the main display screen would stay on for long periods.

The battery was only 2.5 years old & a good make, but I decided to change it without doing the better discharge capability test.
I've now fitted 1 of the max size 020 spec batteries & all oddities & starting problems have disappeared & the car will start without any noticeably slowness even after a week of not being used (not needed to test after longer periods yet) Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

A few weeks ago, just after fixing the air leak causing the Lambda fault code, I started with the HDC inactive with start up. Not every time but 1 out of 3 starts. Then a couple weeks ago when driving 500 mile in lots of rain I get air suspension /hdc/ABS inactive. Codes showed the air pressure valve and air pump temp when idle. Tried clearing codes but returned right away. Also iidtool tool said update failed when clearing ECUs. When checking the pump I found the pool of water. The pressure valve and electrical connector were in the water. Pump was dry. Dried it all. Was good for a week or so. Now I also have occasional turn key and no crank. Turn back to position 0 and try again and starts right away.
GAP suggested a full battery disconnect to clear everything AKA a hard reset. If I get a chance to get a new battery today the hard reset will be covered with the swap.
I also get a light triggering stuck thermostat code since I did the thermostat mod and even added the resistor.
In the past when the battery has gone flat or disconnected the automatic all door lock when driving off takes days for it to return.
I do also have the satnav drain so I disconnect it when not driving distance.

Forgot also the headlight ignition voltage less than 7 volts. I'm no electrical engineer. In fact in physics it was my worst labs but this looks like a problem.

I was going to say have you checked the tightness of your battery terminals but if that picture shows your battery earth cable I would suggest you have found the cause of your problems. I would replace that cable before I changed the battery..
You have to wonder how the cable got in that state.

Zoiks!!  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Yep, that’s broke. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Nah.

It's just LR saving money with the new, much cheaper current limiting circuit for battery drain...

The break was on the underside as you look down on it. I didn't notice it a couple months ago when I put the negative cut off so the satnav would drain it. Perhaps a change in angle and vibration or me being clueless.
Too late on the battery. Changing over to a new one is when I found the break. No worries. The old battery had at least 4 years on it. Was in car when I got it.
Anyone know if this could cause the battery testing to be inaccurate? Trying to find what the relationship between positive and ground wires should be relative to volts and amps. Don't even know how to phrase the question to Google search.