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Bean19844

Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 929

2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Bonatti Grey

Ball joint removal

Afternoon all

So I'm in the middle of trying too sort the range rover and I've come a cropper on the ball joints on a 2006. Anyone on here happen to have any suggestions on how I can get this ball joint too break. It's self welded itself too the hub so if I can remove it I guess its going to have too be a new hub

Click image to enlarge

Cheers folks

22nd Jan 2022 5:51pm

Ffrr-lover

Member Since: 04 May 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 640

2012 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

Oofff, that one looks nasty!

There will probably be a few good suggestions from others, but one suggestion from me is to separate the ball from the joint which will allow a hacksaw blade to cut from the inside?

I had to dismantle a different ball joint to remove one when I did my arms…

Click image to enlarge

Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

22nd Jan 2022 6:12pm

Bean19844

Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 929

How fo you separate the ball from the joint mate.

22nd Jan 2022 6:14pm

wayneg

Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 790

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

I have done two sets of these recently and with persistence, they came out. I braced the hub and used a heavy club hammer and cold chisel. On my 2003 TD6 they were super tight but no corrosion. On my 2007 TDV8 they almost fell out, same with refitting, one set hard one easy. My top tip would be to ditch the stupid torx bolts and replace them with standard hex head bolts. These make refitting a breeze. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

22nd Jan 2022 11:53pm

Bean19844

Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 929

Wayneg

I've ordered myself a cold chisel so hopefully that will arrive today or Monday and then I can get on with it. As a matter of routine when it comes too jobs like these I always replace the nuts and bolts with fresh ones so makes life some what easier

23rd Jan 2022 1:31am

wayneg

Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 790

I think the key is to brace the hub, I used a small trolly jack, so the impact of the blow is not absorbed by the suspension and the full downward force is transferred. The point with the bolts is the new balljoint is equally tight to go back in and those stupid Torx bolts just cam-out under the force needed to press the new one in. Don't use the same, get standard hex bolts. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

23rd Jan 2022 2:29am

JCW

Member Since: 13 Apr 2013
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 843

2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Sumatra Black

Is there any benefit heating the hub and putting the ball joints in the freezer over night to help refitting?

23rd Jan 2022 6:59am

wayneg

Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 790

As before, using standard bolts with hex heads allows you to apply plenty of torque to evenly press them back in without heat. I would not even consider using the original torx type. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

23rd Jan 2022 8:20am

Ffrr-lover

Member Since: 04 May 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 640

Bean19844 wrote:
How fo you separate the ball from the joint mate.

I did that to a different ball joint so cannot say for this one specifically, but use a small chisel around the lower edge to remove the boot, rings, and anything else holding the ball of the joint in place. It went in at some point so will come out, and it doesn’t matter if you destroy anything in that knuckle as you are replace it it!

Generally the suggestions given when this questions is asked are as @wayneg suggests, and perseverance. Lots of perseverance! When you brace the hub with a jack, make sure you don’t raise it so much it starts to lift the car… i know it sounds obvious, but if you take some weight off the axel stands you risk lateral movement and the car slipping off the stands.

Also, make sure you use plenty of penetrating sprays or oils to help break the rust bonds. Use lots, give plenty of time to soak in and keep repeating. Every little helps when you have a tough job like this!

My biggest issue when attempting this was getting enough space to swing the hammer. I had considered removing the hub to allow more room, but really didn’t want to have to resort to doing that.

In the end I admitted defeat on those knuckles. I had purposely stopped before the point of no return and rebuilt everything (I had changed everything else already) and took it to a local garage. It took them several hours with all the tools and tricks of the trade to be able to remove them! For me, it was the right choice. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

23rd Jan 2022 9:01am

cass

Member Since: 12 Oct 2011
Location: northumberland
Posts: 726

I did this job on a previous RR and one of the joints was a complete Barsteward, solution for me was heat (MAP not butane) and a heavy SDS drill.
Fitting the new one wasnt a problem after I'd cleaned the hole with a rotary wire brush in a drill.

23rd Jan 2022 10:21am

philip1972

Member Since: 16 Jun 2017
Location: Marval 87440
Posts: 523

2006 Range Rover Autobiography 4.2 SC V8 Java Black

Can you drill through from the top so you can then get a hacksaw in?

23rd Jan 2022 10:32am

Ffrr-lover

Member Since: 04 May 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 640

While you can drill the top, you’ll meet the knuckle below so would have to get that our first as per my first post.

It’s definitely an option, but when you do that you make it harder to hammer it out should you still need to. I’d say it’s a last resort option.

I’ll also throw in freeze spray for rusty bolts.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/normfest-su...r8QAvD_BwE
I’ve used this a few times and it has helped. It freezes so the metal contracts, and helps with the rust in those joints. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

23rd Jan 2022 1:10pm

Caesium

Member Since: 21 Sep 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 451

Get a long cold chisel on the top and just keep whacking it with a club hammer, it will come out.
Mine were the same, took 20 mins of sustained blows to get it out. Christian.

Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

25th Jan 2022 11:07am

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