After getting eas hard fault few times “too much energy for regulation needed: rear right”. Checked as much as I could under the car and searching here and there, ordered new bags(and shocks) for rear axle. Used the rr for week with air susp inactive and not loosing much air from the bags and took the job yesterday. Depressurized the system witd iid tool. Stuggled with getting first upper clips off but no have “tool” for it . New bags installed, re-enabled eas. Orange light came on(normal height) and not flashing. Compressor started but not rising the car even a mm. I let the car idle(doors closed etc) and came back after 15-20 minutes and nothing. Still bump stops.. Checked live values and reservoir only shows 90psi. Compressor temp similar but not working and no faults. Moved the height button up and down, moved the car little front-back. Still same. Then used the iid manual leveling and slowly managed to get the car rising. Then suddenly the front quite quickly moved up. Rear still just off the pump stops. It will rise super slow using gap manual leveling.

No faults.
Compressor has been rebuilt about 6months ago.
It’s diesel so impossible to hear any air leak sounds when engine running. When switched off no hizzing sound anywhere. After locking the car self leveling not working- front is around normal ride height and rear just little of the bump stops. Some air in every bag, they are all hard.

Any advice would be more than great.

Sounds like a valve block not working properly. These can be tested with the GAP tool AFAIK. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Yes, valve test function is what I use to rise it off the bump stops. Had only little bit of time today for rr and with gap valve test I can rise the front quick up and down. Rear is very very slow and at some point it won’t go higher(will not reach normal height, judged by eye). If i select off road height(from cabin)orange light will flash and flash- nothing happens. Won’t allow to choose access height, orange light jumps immediately on normal height.Will go and test it on road next days to see if any suspension fault code will come up.
Reservoir pressure will not go over 90 or under 89 psi.

Just thinking about it now could it be rear leveling valve block and not big one near the air tank? Since the car will not drop over night(even week).
Before changing the bags and having “too much energy rear right….” error the rear right corner was about 4-5cm lower than other 3- just after a week(air susp inactive mode all that time).

Anything out of the ordinary on the height sensor readings? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Not at all. I have checked them visually and cleaned prior ordering new bags and struts. I have replaced them some years ago together with front struts. All sensors genuine LR.

I meant are the numbers in the GAP IID tool readout for calibration and height. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I don’t know or not sure. I will control again tomorrow. Calibration numbers are all 1xx. In valve test mode I ended up fronts 0. I guess it should be normal height(calibrated) but rears stayed -6 and -10 area or so. Would not go higher.

After 15-20’ driving the original “too much energy...” fault was back. Compressor temp 60(c), tank 88psi. When clearing the fault. Front rises bit, rear stays same(live values). Tank pressure- no change, compressor- not starting. After 5-10’ air susp inactive and same fault.



Right after parking the car in the evening got “self leveling inactive” message as well.

I have new susp valve block in garage for years. Installed it and no difference at all. Start to think more and more that the compressor is causing the problem. After deflation of all system the compressor only pumps 80-90psi to tank and then shuts. Psi number climbs slowly and compressor temp is about the same as psi number in the end. I reed that it should be 200-225psi in the tank.
Can there be any reason for compressor to stop in middle of filling and no faults. It will start and get hot when using gap valve test and raising manually. As i said before front moves very quick when holding ⬆️ or ⬇️ . Rear just barely moves and will not reach normal height. Pressure in the tank doesn’t change during this and also no change overnight.

Never have had in past or now any fault related to compressor. I rebuilt it only because it was slow to change heights but it made no notable difference. It was working and didn’t see point to buy new one.

After bags and shocks, it would be frustrating to order new compressor and still have same issue. What’s there left after that- rear and front solenoid’s and air pipes.

Is there a way to check the valve controller on dash is functioning correctly?

It is quite possible that your leak has effectively goosed the compressor. maybe time for a new compressor. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I believe it is sorted for now. New compressor(and relay). Psi number climbed nicely to 190 and the in next minute or so went down to 187 and stayed there. After 24h there is 170+ psi in the reservoir which i guess is good/fine/normal. Overnight temp change etc. After start up the compressor pumps few seconds and shuts at 190.
All the parts were genuine from factory so never replaced before. I think the rear bags, shocks were still ok and it was just the compressor that could not pump the high psi numbers. No need to say that the ride is better with new suspension parts. Should be good for next 20 years

That’s good news….always good news when you find the source to a long winded problem.

I thought i read earlier in the post that you rebuilt the compressor, if so are you saying that a new genuine LR compressor is better than a rebuilt one? 😎🇦🇺

Correct. Changed the ring and seals because changing heights took very long(imo). Afterwards I did not see noteable difference but everything was working and I left it as it was(rebuilt) until last weekend.

So the rebuild kit is only a single ring that you change on the piston ? The New compressor you purchased is it a record or factory new? And this made the difference between pumping to a good pressure ? Did you fit a new regulator valve too?