Hi,
Please could you help, I want to test that the non return valve is working in my remote oil housing. The reason being that I am getting the loud rattle/knock on start up after the car has been standing 6 hours plus. I have changed the non return valves behind the solenoids on the Vanos's. Before I go down the line of new Vanos's I have this niggle that the oil is draining out of the filter and this takes 2 or 3 seconds to get back.

So any ideas how to test ?

Thanks....................Adam

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Could you not remove it from block and get it on a bench to test? Looking on eBay there is a new one for £100 and looks straight forward enough. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

im getting this as well so any help on what needs changing would be gratfull as i was going to just change the vanos "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

is this the part you mean
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-VALVE...563209d59c "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

Think thats on the vacum system that goes to the master break servo. Think Adam is after this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-L322...646wt_1139 [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

do you reckon that could be the problem with mine then as it only does it once in a blue moon and its for a second at the most "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

Thanks Rob for that spot, I have decided to buy that filter housing as had priced one up last week and it was 200 pounds so grabed that one while I could. The car is going in next week for rocker cover gaskets, oil change (Mobil 1 5-40)and the old filter housing is getting tested and changed if needed.

Pret, I will let you know my conclusions next week. If you are only getting it once in a blue moon I would be more tempted to change the non return valves behind the solenoids of the Vanos's and do regular oil changes with some good oil. The Vanos job is quite involved by all accounts and to me should be only concidered when you have tried the easy fixes.

Anyway, Ill let you know.

Adam

thanks ill try that i dont suppose you have part numbers for that if not ill start hunting "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

Just thought I would report back on my progress with my Noisey start up rattle.

I bought a new complete oil housing complete with pipework, filter etc from ebay for 100 + 18 delivery (thanks Rob) and have bought 2 x 5L tubs of Mobil 1 from Costco and bought a bottle of engine flush from Toolstation for just undr 3 pound.

Went for drive to get engine oil hot, put RR in offroad position, switched off car, added flush, ran for 5 mins (not reving or driving it as per instructions. Then I stopped car, drained oil out and left it for hour or so to completly drain out.

I drilled out the broken rubber mounts that hold oil filter housing, which was a TW*T of a job, I really need to get lots of new drill bits.

Put everything back together and filled up with the Mobil 1, Jesus they drink alot of Oil, about 8 - 8.5 ltrs.

Started car up and I had initial 2 second rattle because oil lines and filter where empty, then I stopped car and checked level again and then restarted, with no rattle.

I started it again the next day and no rattle

I then left it 2 days and started it again early in morning and no rattle (well very very slight noise for 0.001 second only because I am tuned into it)

I started it again the next day and no noise - Sweet

So I am a very happy man, I think I still have some wear on my Vanos units but by having all the oil lines to my filter full of oil and a good quality thin oil in my car the top end of the engine and Vanos units get the oil pressure straight away.

When I get chance I will clean my old housing and test the NRV in work, but in the mean time I am happy if not still a bit nervous that it may return.

Adam

well it looks as if this is what i need to do so thanks for the info  "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

We had this problem on a BMW and 2004 Range Rover and replacing the Timing Chain Tensioner solved it on both cars. Its a 30 minute job and the part is about £45.00 Can never part with old friends even though they cost me a fortune to maintain.

On my first 4.4 I found that if the oil level was anywhere other than at the top of the marker then I would get the rattle.

I also found that if I swapped to a slightly thinner grade oil in the winter months then the noise went away.

15,000 miles is a long time to spend on the same oil, and that's generally what the service interval indicator aims for. I change the oil twice a year, swapping grades and generally have had no issues on any 4.4 since doing this.


I wonder whether the oil change and flush you did would have cured the problem on their own? 

dan what oil would you reckomend for this time of year "RANGEISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED"
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Pretlove says , '' I want my car back "

pretlove wrote:

dan what oil would you reckomend for this time of year

The normal grade - i just go for a slightly thinner grade in winter. You could go for a grade thicker in the summer too. Only if you have a problem with loosing oil (thicker doesnt leak out or pass piston rings)

If I ran winter grade oil in my P38 in the summer it would burn it... If I ran summer oil in winter it would clatter a lot. So i have generally followed the same principle with the L322...