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Bazm



Member Since: 27 Feb 2024
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 22

Switzerland 2007 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Oslo Blue
TDv8 3.6 with intermittent whistle/chirp

Hi Folks, new member , new owner.

I've just bought a 2007 HSE TDV8 3.6, with full service history, very tidy and 242000 kms (I'm in Switzerland).

Driving home after picking it up I noticed a loud intermittent whistling which sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car. Sounded like a high frequency cross between a referees whistle and chirping crickets. Car was driving fine, no loss of power, and no warning lights.

Sound intensity seemed to be constant and not related to speed, but I'll check that again when it happens again.

Speed was between 55 and 75 mph. Temp around 6 degrees, damp.

I turned off radio, heater blower etc and still there. Driving to work this morning, I noticed that it would stop consistently everytime I put slight turn right pressure on the steering wheel. Could this be a clue?

I couldn't do anything else to turn it off/on.

Power steering pump??

I didn't hear it on the drive home. Approx 15 miles.

I have looked through the forum and elsewhere on line, and there are several cases of a whistle from turbo and cracked manifolds. I'll check mine the best I can.

It did sound as if it was coming from the back but that could be deceptive.

As I'm just about 24 hours into ownership, I really don't want a major fix on my hands, not that any of us do I know.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: Driving home this evening, the whistling started and it stayed constant regardless of speed. I turned the steering wheel gently left and right, and that did seem to switch the whistle on and off. Does that point to something on the wheel? Bearing?

Many thanks.

Post #686628 27th Feb 2024 9:14pm
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Bazm



Member Since: 27 Feb 2024
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 22

Switzerland 2007 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Oslo Blue

Update:

For different reasons (oil leak related) I had the whole underside of the car cleaned, and the whistling disappeared.

A happy unintended consequence of that.

Post #690571 14th Apr 2024 10:59am
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Bazm



Member Since: 27 Feb 2024
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 22

Switzerland 2007 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Oslo Blue

Spoke too soon. It's back. Not as loud or frequently, but it's back.

Post #690971 20th Apr 2024 11:08am
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chugga90



Member Since: 24 Jul 2015
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 147

United Kingdom 

Warped exhaust manifold, allowing gasket to fail and probably snapped studs for the manifold. That’s what mine was when I had one👍🏽

Post #691007 21st Apr 2024 7:16am
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 2669

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey
Re: TDv8 3.6 with intermittent whistle/chirp

Bazm wrote:
I noticed that it would stop consistently everytime I put slight turn right pressure on the steering wheel.

A seized rear brake piston or caliper slider will cause this esp as it goes away with steering input as it will change then load / clearance on the contacting surfaces. Feel each rear wheel for temp differences after a run and also the appearance of the disk surfaces for any heat damage. Remove the wheel and calipers and check the action of the sliding pins and piston as a further check. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #691010 21st Apr 2024 8:13am
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Bazm



Member Since: 27 Feb 2024
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 22

Switzerland 2007 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Oslo Blue

chugga90 wrote:
Warped exhaust manifold, allowing gasket to fail and probably snapped studs for the manifold. That’s what mine was when I had one👍🏽


Well I woke up to this message, so feeling some trepidation now....

Post #691023 21st Apr 2024 11:27am
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Bazm



Member Since: 27 Feb 2024
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 22

Switzerland 2007 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Oslo Blue
Re: TDv8 3.6 with intermittent whistle/chirp

JayGee wrote:
Bazm wrote:
I noticed that it would stop consistently everytime I put slight turn right pressure on the steering wheel.

A seized rear brake piston or caliper slider will cause this esp as it goes away with steering input as it will change then load / clearance on the contacting surfaces. Feel each rear wheel for temp differences after a run and also the appearance of the disk surfaces for any heat damage. Remove the wheel and calipers and check the action of the sliding pins and piston as a further check.


Thanks JayGee, I prefer this possibility compared to the exhaust manifold problem. There is definitely a switch on/off with slight input to the steering wheel regardless of left or right.

It seems to come from rear right wheel, so I will get that off and give the brake a good strip down and clean, check over. If I find anything, I'll go through the other three wheels systematically also just to have peace of mind that they are OK.

Thanks.

Post #691024 21st Apr 2024 11:31am
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