Good advice here I had some surface rust on the rear wheelarch lip under the rubber door seals which I had the dealer sort when they were fixing the tailgate under warranty (amazing LR actually agreed to cover it from what I see on the interweb). Having seen this though, I'm going to take off the arch liners and the plastic trim and give the whole underside a good clean & protect to keep things tidy. Range Rover TDV8 Vogue SE

Hi,
I finally had some time this week to sort out my rust, I started off by jacking car up, removed wheels put on axle stands. Removed wheel arch liners - 2 x small 8mm bolts directly ahead of you, a 10mm nut at the top of the arch near the lip of the arch above your head and 2 other 10mm bolts, 1 on the bumper and 1 connecting to the sill plastic. There is also a rubber strip on the leading edge of the arch that just pulls off.

I then removed my side steps which have 2 x 10mm bolts and 1 x 13mm bolt holding on in 2 places front and back, there is also a 10mm nut and bolt that fixes the side step to the front mudgard (this will probably be rusted and need spanner on back of nut). Remove all the bolts on the passenger side but leave the 2 rear 10mm bolts in position on the drivers side, still bolted but slackened off. This is because the rear bracket is slotted on this side (as pictured), to enable you to get the side step off as the access is very limited with the air receiver in place. I removed the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the back of the air receiver on (need long extension on 1/4" rachet set) this will enable you to push receiver to one side to get a ring spanner on these back two 10mm bolts.

Then remove the plastic clips under the sill plastic, you have to remove the smaller plastic lug first then the outer plastic lug will pull out, I removed most of them but left the front 1 or 2 in, a few of them broke, but no big deal. Now pull horizontally on the sill plastic this will give you better access to the affending areas and just leave hanging (will need both doors open)

I have then wire brushed all the inside of the arches and jacking point to get rid of loose dirt and rust, then I have used the wire brush attachhment on the end of drill to get right behind arch lip. Then I have used a sanding disc attached to my angle grinder and removed as much rust as I can from the affending parts including most of the rust and paint from the outside of the arch where it was bubbling.

I have cleaned and degreased areas using meths, painted all rusty areas with the rust treater (off ebay about a fiver delivered) which is also a primer. Then I have painted areas with 2 coats of hammeright type paint (Combicolour) I had and then sprayed all non visable ares with wax (had old can of bike chain wax that I used)

I have also done the same with the rear boot lip and will have that repainted proffesionally when I get more time, but at least I know it is protected. I have sprayed lots of wax and lithium grease (which I bought for steering column) into the small drain hole in boot lid drain hole to help prevent it rusting from the inside.

I am lucky that the car is black and will get away with this finished paint apart from the rear boot lid, but I'm sure the type of paint I used Combicolour does lots of different colours and mixes too, google it.

This is a job I did over 2 days so to let the paint dry properly, I feel alot better that it is done well worth it. Please pay particular attention to the bolt sticking out at the top behind the lip which helps attach the wheel lining. Mine was very rust about size of old 50p and if left much longer would have started to scab through to the other side, which would be visible on outer panel. The jacking point area also needs lots of attention as this was not good on mine.

I still think it crap that this can happen to a 4x4 that cost this much new, that to be honest has probably never seen any challenging mud.

Here are some pics to help.
Slotted Bracket on drivers side step,

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Whilst giving my FFRR its weekly wash this morning, I noticed a small rusty spot on my rear wheel arch lip, so I decided to take a look under the wheel arch liner to see how bad it is under there.

I cleaned of the dirt and found signs that the corrosion is just starting to appear

Click image to enlarge

2006 car with rust. That's very poor. Bad luck. Hope that LR do deal with this. Graham

____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey

if you'd had seen where justin has been with his range then that might account for the rust.. ... - .- -.




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Corrosion warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on from my past experience with a Defender. They blamed rusting rear door, rusted bolts and headlights on 'stone chips' and as such were not available for replacement. Also, you can only have replacements if your vehicle is serviced yearly by LR themselves or an approved workshop as you have to have the 'body inspection.'

Mine is booked in for the first week in November to get both rear arch lips treated, primed, sealed and painted before the salt arrives - they are pretty bad only bit of rust on the car - why oh why did LR not just extend the rubber lip another 20mm and it would be protected from stone chips....... Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

I have mine to do as well as they are getting rough looking for a 6yr old car

Got some rust eater and will be getting a wire brush attachment and stripping th back and putting plenty of layers of paint on and then clear coating as well but in black as I should be able to get away with it on dark grey as its only the arch lip behind the door shuts so far possibly might look at some of that rubber underseal stuff to help ward off chips!!

After reading this post ive cleaned my out and look ok

Posts like this help cos it makes others check theres, thanks

Just done a detailed check on my 2007 car and it's starting

Car now booked into Lookers to take a look. Graham

____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey

S11X TT wrote:

I also took off the rear wheel arch plastic and had a good look inside there also.

Click image to enlarge

Is that rust above around the seam sealer directly above the air bag?

If so, I'd be tempted to get a wire know attachment for the grinder and remove the seam sealer to make sure it isn't rotten under there.

Past experiences of what lurks behind seam sealer on a couple of my mates cars is rather worrying, he's decided to totally strip the underside of his project turbo Volvo and re-coat with gravitex. It's surprising what can be hiding under all the sealer.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

I wire brushed all the surface rust and treated it with rust converter. It seemed to be surface rust only. The rest of the arch seemed ok. Range Rover TD6 Vogue Adriatic Blue

If you have the wheel arch liners out lot to be said for giving the metal work a thick coating of grease or wax, won't rust then.
I apply a coat of general purpose grease with a paint brush, gets a bit dirty over the years but the paintwork underneath stays like new.

LR just called to say my corrosion claim has been approved, the car is now booked in to the paintshop for 5 dats startin the 5th December

I'm very pleased, Marshals have looked after me again  
Gone - Range Rover Supercharged 2006

Just as a side note for anyone who has rust and wants to remove or control it google Bilt Hamber. They make detailing products amongst other stuff but rust control is their base. It's all water based stuff and can go down the drain. Deox gel and deox c are the products for removal and they do a couple of sprays that stop rust forming and or spreading. Comes in clear for visible areas and black for dark or concealed areas. Its self healing and will last years. I will be using it to protect exposed areas and suspension parts etc ready for winter. Their detailing clays and degreasers are the best I have used for the initiated, but avoid auto balm, it's junk Range Rover 4.4 V8 Autobiography
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