Looking to buy a workshop jack for lifting the car onto my new axle stands (swapping wheels, brakes etc) and wondered what type is best to get, the scissor jack supplied in the boot lifts it high enough but is hard work.

Anyone got experience of particular bottle or trolley jacks that work well on Range Rovers? Some I have found don't lift high enough, even with access mode locked down the jack needs to lift quite high before the tyre leaves the ground.

What tonnage do you use? 2, 3,4, 5+ etc?

Also, can we only jack from the side jacking points inboard of the wheels? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I’m shocked that LR would allow the RR to leave the factory with the death trap that is the factory jack…. I have heard horror stories of the thread stripping and the vehicle collapsing from more than one person. Also in my personal experience as the jack lifts the car at an angle it wants to push the jack out sideways, if the jack is on concrete with no grip the jack will slide.

I use a 2 tonne trolley jack on the subframe on the front, and under the suspension points at the rear, see photo’s:

Front

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The scissor jack that comes with the car is pathetic to say the least!! I've used it only once and the threads stripped leaving me with an almighty job to get the bloody thing back down..in fact I had to use that much force to lower it down that the flimsy handle simply snapped!!
Landrover should be ashamed of themselves for supplying such an inferior tool with a premium car.

Problem now is that any other jack ( ie bottle or trolley) will not fil into the designated boot space so looks like I'm left to buy another crappy scissor jack!! 2011 Range Rover TDV8 4.4 Vogue SE
2007 Range Rover TDV8 Vogue (Sold)
2004 Range Rover Vogue TD6 (Sold)

Dan

What make is yours and whats the max height it extends to? Most 2 tonne versions I have seen only extend up to about 330mm, which isnt enough to clear the tyre off the ground. Does jacking off the subframe make a difference to the amount of suspension travel when jacking up compared to the side jacking point? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

RRUK wrote:

Dan

What make is yours and whats the max height it extends to? Most 2 tonne versions I have seen only extend up to about 330mm, which isnt enough to clear the tyre off the ground. Does jacking off the subframe make a difference to the amount of suspension travel when jacking up compared to the side jacking point?

It's a crap Halfrauds one, but to be fair it only just lifts the car since some of the oil leaked out! It's ok on the back because I use a wooden block.

When jacking from the back I lift right under the spring so its lifting the wheel, rather than the body. Under the front although you're lifting the subframe, that's basically the body too so you still have to lift it loads. A decent mechanics jack would do the job fine, but isnt the sort of thing you can put in the boot. I will generally use a wooden block and then lower it onto axle stands before doing anything to it.

Dan 

Cant see the pics guys as I'm at work but please take it from someone who jacks cars up all day long only use the proper jacking points not wishbones etc

A 2t jack is fine make sure it can roll with the car chock the wheels etc

I'll take pics of our options

Oh if you have air pump her up to Off Road Height first

Last edited by ken on 12th May 2009 5:45pm. Edited 1 time in total

ken wrote:

Please take it from someone who jacks cars up all day long only use the proper jacking points not wishbones etc

It's not on the Wishbones, it's on the Subframe (which is the strongest point of the front. When Land Rover jack the car they use the center jacking point - the flat section on the front subframe)

One would not use the sill jacking points to lift the car in a workshop environment, to do so would be dangerous, stupid, and damaging in the long term as the stresses exerted through the body in this un-natural state will stress the body (unless you were to lift the whole front, eg a jack under each sill)

The rear wishbones are more than up to the job of lifting the car (they do it all day long) obviously one has to exercise caution and common sense and use adequate load spreading, and placement of the jack in an appropriate area as not to cause damage or excessive stress 

Hum think my one goes a bit higher than 330mm





I give the advice If you dont want to take it fine its your car to do as you will

Ken,

What you're doing there is obviously fine, you're lifting it on a four poster, which has eaven force on each lifting point.

Most of us dont have a 4 point hoist in our garage (although I wish I did!)

My problem is lifting from the side of the car, on only one point is dangerous because you have to lift really high to get the wheel off the ground, which makes the whole thing unstable, it also twists the body in a way that it never was designed to be. Bare in mind its an X5 design that is considerably lighter with stiffer suspension etc.

Basically back to the OP the factory jack is substandard BMW crap.

So if you dont have a 4 point lift, then lifting from the subframe is an acceptable, safe and secure method. 

Anyone used or had experiance of those inflatable bag jacks?

Dan sorry you are wrong with your facts stick to IT Chap I'm horrified at your recomended way but its your car

Oh the Ramp is a TWO post ramp Four Posts are totally different

Yes the supplied jack is Crap but its not meant for every day use

Air Jack try Easy List proved itsself all over the world (Great in sand) but a twin outlet pipe requires a bung for the exhaust jack to work

ken wrote:

Dan sorry you are wrong with your facts stick to IT Chap

Of the Ramp is a TWO post ramp Four Posts are totally different

Fortunately my IT skills are universal and allow me to count (at least to 10 using fingers) if you read my post carefully you will see that I actually said four "point" not four post, as I could see quite clearly that you have two posts.... and the four points I was referring to were the four points of contact on the car, thus lifting it safely and squarely.

I really have no interest in getting into some sort of competition here, and am somewhat confused as to what sort of point you are trying to make?

The OP asked what jack to use, I replied and elaborated with what I thought was a helpfull post to him and the board in general. You then snubbed my information, citing that because you lift the cars every day you are clearly the expert.

Well I doff my hat to thee.

Now hopefully when I've finished sobbing in my pillow I will be able to get on with my life  

Dan well said

No digs intended or implied

Read my Post it said "Advice take it or leave it its your car" Your advice applies to your model year,however 06/7 onwards have undertrays that stop you using the front cross members, as for the suggest method for rear I'll say no more apart from if I caught any of my team doing it that way they would not have a job end of.

Just read your OBD thread I'm sure BBS Spy will be along soon to debate

It is however very nice to see a fellow FFRR person who has an interest in the oily bits

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

Ken,

What you're doing there is obviously fine, you're lifting it on a four poster, which has eaven force on each lifting point.

.

Now now girls stop sqabiling, kiss on the cheeks and make up  letters not necessarily in the right order