strange that..i would bet on it being the thermostat..might be a air block in the system or the water pump?.. ... - .- -.




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Bled system as per RAVE.

I'm tempted to remove thermostat again and see if their is a problem inside housing.

It's got me stumped

With outside temperature @ 0 degrees, takes me 10 miles from a cold morning start @ 2000 rpm to get the needle up to the middle. That's driving along, no stop/starting.

Could your replacement stat be dodgy?

Have you still got the original you could test that to see if it works as a fault finding exercise. If it does still work, then problem is elsewhere? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

It is a possibility that new one is dodgy, still got old one, will test it.

I was in temps down to -13c a year ago, and car warmed up fine and ran normal temp, it really has me baffled...

If you have access to a diagnostic machine you could check the live readings to see the actual engine temp after a period of warming up. 

Click image to enlarge

The engine must be getting warm, surely?

Some other tests.

When engine cold, start car run for @ 20 seconds then switch off. can you hear the FBH running?

Also, could the problem be the temperature sensor, which then stops the heater from doing its thing?

Water pump - due to cold weather you are just not overheating? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Its dangerous sometimes looking at the forum, since joes post on changing a thermostat i have not stopped looking at the damn gauge and guess what............... it has been moving around!!!

Driving to work which is about eight miles, engine on, fbh kicks in as -5 and after a few miles temp all ok and 12 oclock postion. Left the office at about 4 and had to drive to pick my duaghter up about a 25 mile round trip. Gets up to temp, heating ok and then gauge drops back to 10 oclock position, then back up to 12 and back etc etc. Speed was slow as lots of traffic probably not getting over 30 for a good 10 miles, seemed to drop back when slowing down which puzzled me, but then eventually getting up to speed and all is well at and gauge settles. When i left the office it was zero but car was warm inside due to the sun, but i can not remember fhb coming on, definatly works as i tried it tonight.

Heating in the car is fine and i did turn it up a bit. Could this simply be down to the cold weather or does it sound like the stat, never really took much notice in the past!!!!! Dont like the idea of changing, mind you Joe, Cardiffs a nice place for a day out!!!!!

On my journey to work I have a very long hill on the motorway @ 2 miles.

When it was -8 degrees in my village I set off as normal, and car got up to temperature after @ 10 miles. All was fine until I reached the bottom of this hill, I looked at the gauge and it had dropped to about 10:30!! (Still -6 degrees outside). This is after fitting the new 'stat. Not had any problems since, even with the cold on the hill ?

Went to Cardiff....once The only fiddly bit is the viscous coupling, or it was for me.

I think Richcl's problem is something different though. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

So what you're saying Joe is, if anyone goes to Cardiff they will have a fiddly viscous coupling

My car is over cooling.
The viscous fan has been removed and I have blocked off the whole grill, the only air entering the radiator area is from the areas under the front bumper that I have left unblocked because of the intercooler.

The coolant gauge is showing cold, the pipes from the radiator to the engine feel cool, I can certainly grasp them without fear of burning my hands, which if car was up to 88c operating temperature (or overheating) I would not be able to do. Also, I have a luke warm heater.

All that I changed was fitting a EGR removal kit, and the original gearbox oil cooler has been disconnected and a seperate from the engine gearbox cooler has been installed.

I think I have sorted it...

When original gearbox oil cooler was disconnected the inlet and outlet coolant pipes from radiator and engine were diconnected from it and joined togeather to form a continual circuit.

The problem here is that inside the gearbox oil cooler is a thermostat, now that this has been bypassed the coolant can circulate freely, this circuit bypasses the main engine thermostat, therfore over cooling the engine.

Just been outside with torch to confirm this, and can see where pipes have been cut and joined (New jubilee clips).

I'll be having a word with my gearbox "specialist"....

told you it was that.....




lets hope that does solve the problem rich..  ... - .- -.




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Fixed.

Disconnected the "loop" that was the coolant hoses to gearbox oil cooler, plugged ends to stop flow, and have my old toasty heater back!

Just had quick run around block and my mpg is 4 mpg better off (Back to normal)

Something to be aware off if you're having coolant problems is that their are 3 thermostats in the TD6, main one, EGR and gearbox oil cooler.

 ... - .- -.




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Erm - mark as solved? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999