Does anyone know where I can get a scissor type ball joint splitter with a wide enough fork gap for the FFRR without spending silly amounts of money on the official Land Rover tool? I've looked all over the place but can't find anything for less than £300 which is a bit steep when slightly smaller ones are around the £50 mark.

I don't want to use a pickle fork type as they tend to cause a lot of damage and I wnat to be able to put it all back again after without replacing anything.

Have you tried the 'two hammer' method first?

Example here, albeit a short one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg

Leave the nut slightly on at the bottom though to stop things springing apart quickly.

The other cheap way is to undo the nut but leave it on, use a lever to put tension on the ball joint and hit the side of the ball joint with the obligatory hammer.
Usually works.
£300 for an official Land Rover hammer.

Quote:

I don't want to use a pickle fork type as they tend to cause a lot of damage and I wnat to be able to put it all back again after without replacing anything.

Tried the 2 hammer method but it's jammed solid. Even applied some solid leverage and the 2 hammers but it really doesn't want to move. It's a method that's always worked for me in the past but have people had success with the hammer method on a FFRR lower ball joint?


Replacing the balljoint once it's apart is an option but how much does a new lower balljoint cost? I thought it was an integral part and the whole lower arm needed replacing? If I've got this wrong and it can be done relatively cheaply then I'll be more than happy to get a pickle fork and set to it with a BFH.

I've never used a splitter, nor have I used the two hammer method as it would be just too fiddly, single 4lb lump hammer and one sharp blow on the eye of the joint should get it loose.


Do not hit the suspension part that the ball joint is bolted to with the torx bolts, also do not hot the threaded part the nut goes on, only the eye where the threaded part goes through. The threaded part is a tapered fit and when the nut is tightened it makes for a snug fit, aim the hammer carefully and as I said one swift sharp hit should release it 

Hi,

The lower balljoint costs peanuts, although go for a decent brand, it is bolted up into the hub with two torx bolts, it can be a pain in the ass to remove the lower balljoint from the hub. I use a chisel or air chisel.

All the best.

47p2 wrote:

I've never used a splitter, nor have I used the two hammer method as it would be just too fiddly, single 4lb lump hammer and one sharp blow on the eye of the joint should get it loose.


Do not hit the suspension part that the ball joint is bolted to with the torx bolts, also do not hot the threaded part the nut goes on, only the eye where the threaded part goes through. The threaded part is a tapered fit and when the nut is tightened it makes for a snug fit, aim the hammer carefully and as I said one swift sharp hit should release it