Reset all the fault codes today. Took the rangy for a long drive and got the christmas tree dash again.
My list of faults in my blackbox solution FCR currently active are now are

Steering angle plausability
Air Susp - CAN bus failure - intermittent current
Diesel engine - glow plug relay failure ( might explain why it takes a few revolutions to kick over)

My battery voltage at standstill is 12.59V (new fully charged I would expect 13.8v from a lead acid battery but 12.59 isn't drastically low). This spikes down to approx 9.5V on kick over of the starter motor.

I have tried disconnecting the battery, reconnecting, clearing the faults, starting up and doing the full lock left/right but the steering angle plausibility fault comes back after a few mins of driving.

As I mentioned in previous posts, this all started when I changed the track rod ends. Cant understand it. Maybe too many coincidences.

How old is the battery...? Seems to be a common cause of problems, and your lower-than-desirable voltage might be an indicator of this. Graham

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with a recent new battery my idle voltage is 14.5o so yours is a bit low..u ... - .- -.




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After checking mine for faults the other day with my all comms I had the fault
Air Susp - CAN bus failure.

There were a couple of others which all seemed to link to the Canbus.

My battery is brand new (fitted last week) and at idle I get about 14.5ish showing on the meter.

My alternator isnt that old either.

I have cleared all the faults, and they all seem to be gone now so I will keep an eye on it and see what happens.

I have had a few electrical gremlins lately and I have put mine down to lack of use over christmas, and all the rain we have had recently. (Altho that said, I have no signs of water inside anywhere.)

I cleaned the earth to the battery today, along with another set near the battery, the one in the entertainment cabby and the one in with the spare wheel. To early to say if thats done anything to help. Reformed

A battery fully charged at 12.59V is spot on and is not low in anyway.
Why you expect 13.8V from a fully charged battery other than immediately after being on a charger is beyond me. The voltage should decay to 12.6V after a number of hours and then stabilise.
Battery voltage dipping to 9.5V on use of starter is perfectly normal, not uncommon for them to drop to about 8.0V and still spin the starter.
On idle with no electrical load on the car the alternator should be giving out anything from about 13.8V to 14.4V, generally at 2000rpm you should get about 14.4V.
My alternator generally gives out 14.0V and varies slightly depending on electrical load.
Bosch are quite content for their batteries to be charged at 13.8V.
You may have a number of fault codes but from your voltage readings I doubt you have a battery or alternator problem.

nicedayforit I completely agree and might I add that it is nice to have an opinion that doesn't blame the battery for everything. It seems to be the culprit for almost every fault on this forum. Like I said, I agree, 12.59V after settling on standstill is fine. 13.8 volts is what I would expect from the battery after the engine has been shutdown. When running it sits happily at 14.1v so so problems there on the charging circuit. I was concerned over the voltage drop during starting as I am not sure how sensitive some of the electronics are to voltage drop and did wonder if perhaps my battery wasn't of a sufficient cold crank rating. I did my research though and compared it and it is all good. I am going to rule out the electrical charging and supply circuits as a cause of my problems.
Next I'm going to look at the geometry of the wheels and the steering angle sensor. I thought by recalibrating it that everything would be good but obviously not.

With regards to the CAN bus fault on the EAS does this cause the HDC inactive and suspension inactive warnings to come on. I did read someone say it is a common fault and often ignored. I can't tell which fault is causing my deactivation as I have more than one up at the same time

"With regards to the CAN bus fault on the EAS does this cause the HDC inactive and suspension inactive warnings to come on."

Can't help you with that, I simply don't know.
Having read your post through, I think your problem relates to your changing the track rod ends. Not in changing the track rods ends themselves but the fact you had each of the front wheels jacked up.
I seemed to remember having the "air suspension inactive" indication come on when I checked the front brakes but it cleared when I did the lock to lock proceedure.
I just put it down to the fact I'd upset a ride height sensor.

Has this fault cleared and not come back..

Steering angle plausability

If it keeps coming back it is quite likely this can cause problems with the other ECUs as they are all connected. I suggested your steering angle sensor in your other thread on the same topic  .
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Did you get a 4 wheel alignment carried out yet like you were going to ?

If you haven't then that is probably where the steering angle fault is coming from as I seem to remember that your steering wheel was sitting squint and you took it of to realign it ? You can't just do that as the steering wheel sensor will think the car is driving with some lock on when its going straight, hence the error Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....