I have my ctek charger rigged up to the trailer socket for charging and conditioning. However, I seem to have a problem. After @ 1 hour or so of charging (car locked) the ctek goes into fault mode (red light). Power off at the mains, count to ten, power on again and all is OK. Repeat.
Don't get this problem if connected direct to the main battery under the bonnet (have a second one in the boot - no switching).
I am guessing the car is "waking up" periodically and throwing the ctek into a wobbly?
Anyone else find this or have a suggestion solution?
Last edited by Joe90 on 20 Mar 2016 5:49pm. Edited 1 time in total
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Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962
Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999
There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial
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Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962
Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999
Is it not the car shutting the socket down to save a flat battery..... those fridges don't half draw a currant
I think I'd be looking the rig up a socket that will allow direct connection to the battery..... that way it doesn't matter what the bloody ECU's are doing
Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!
Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!
I used one of these on my Classic so that I could keep the battery topped up, because the alarm would eat the battery..... it was mounted in the off side wing just behind the indicator light, when I sold the car I said it was for plugging in a lead lamp and gave them the plug
Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!
But Martin has been selling these trailer sockets with ctek connectors on this and the Disco forums for ages, so either folks ain't using them or they don't have this problem.
As a start I'll give all the connections a good clean up and "tighten" tomorrow, see if that helps.
I do have the ctek battery connectors so could have the connector poking out the side vent or something similar, just seems a shame when the trailer socket approach is so convenient and already there. I'd also need a 5m extension so the charger could remain inside the garage while my FFRR stays out in the cold and rain!
Thanks for your input and ideas miggit
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Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962
Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999
When I first used mine I found that a fuse had blown in the rear compartment. The reason for this was because the 12S socket was in a right state and I had to change it (the socket). Works fine now!
Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984
There should be a permenant live at the 12s direct from the battery via a fuse. So the electronics in the car shouldn't be a factor.
Do you not have 2 batteries? Possible the current is too high charging both at the same time?
There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial
I have one of Martin's connectors and it works fine, when I first tried it it didn't so after cleaning all the pins in the socket it worked. Try giving it a good clean but check pins with your meter.
I would disconnect the rear battery and clean the pins then try it. It should work.
Which ctek do you have, if it's the 5 then you would only need to be drawing 2.5a on each battery to send it into overload. 3.5 on the msx7.
Which isn't a lot when it comes to charging a big battery.
There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial
Well a good clean up of the terminals in the white socket, and a mild widening of all the male terminals with a flat bladed screwdriver on the car and connector, seems to have done the trick, been on charge for over 4 hours now without going to fault.
Interesting though at how quickly the car will drain the battery (as evidenced many times by forum members), while I was fiddling about with my ULF module I had the ignition at position 1 for @ 1 hour, and the charger is still on the 4th orange light (one more orange light to go before we get to the green one) after four hours. Must be doing it properly now I have a good connection.
Thanks again for all the advice.
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Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962
Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999
You do know that they come in 10 and 15 amp sizes too
Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!
those fridges don't half draw a currant 
