Drove to work this morning no problem. Got out of work and started car, but the bat light stayed on. Drove home with the hidden menu up and was showing 10.9-11V. This slowly dropped off as I got closer to home wih HDC inactive and air suspension inactive pinging up. Got home and shut down and now won't restart. Does it sound like the altinator is dead and not giving enough juice to charge the bat? What should the hidden menu show and what exactly is it showing? Any help would be great. If it is the alt how easy is it to change? [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

alternators should push out around 14.5 volts on tick over...sounds like your battery is now flat and hasn't the power to get all the ecu's going to start the range .. ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

Sounds very much like a goosed alternator, but check the belt tension and the brush pack first. If it's a Bosch alternator you can replace these easily. You should be getting between 13-14.5 volts from the alternator.

It's a 4.4 so how will I know if it's a Bosch? Also how do I check the brush pack? [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

The alternator on the BMW engine is water cooled and is sealed so I think the doide pack is not accessible. A new alternator is about £500.00

Stewart.

As above, the alt is slotted right into the engine, not bolted on like you would normally expect. It's a fairly significant job to get it out. I suppose in theory you could get the gibbons out and leave the case slotted into the engine but again, difficult to see hat your doing.

Whilst you an get the voltage regulator if you look hard enough, I found it very difficult to get diodes for it.

There was also talk that if the alt had gone, then by its design it could be quite likely that the coil windings within it could be compromised and if regulator and diodes replaced, the duff coil would wear out the new parts quickly. V8 or else ...

Ok. I've looked in rave and looks easy enough to change. Now can I test it or do I need to get a replacement and hope for the best? What does the hidden menu show? Is it batt voltage or alt voltage? As a note went out before and she started up but batt light was still on. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

From what you describe the rectifier diodes in the alternator have failed.
When the engine is running the battery voltage and the alternator voltage are the same, anything from about 13.8V to 14.5V depending on load on the car / battery.
I'm afraid it's a new / reconditioned alternator unless you can find a good auto electrician who is able to replace the diodes for you.
Given the cost of a replacement alternator I would make some effort to find an auto electrician.

Ok that's good. Granted I do t want to spend £££ but I'm happy to do it if the fault is correct. I found replacement exchange for £250+postage. So happy with that. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Good price for a replacement.

Just for info. I got a price from James Edwards main dealer and the wanted £750 for an exchange alternator and £1000+ for an out right sale. I've got a price of £240 for a new OEM part from Clwyd Auto electrics. They do recon one as well if anyone has a problem with theirs. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

May be worth a punt for £150 :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-GENUIN...686wt_1163 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Would have tried but that's for a TD6. I needed one for a V8 which is water cooled  [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Is it too late for this ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-BMW-...907wt_1156 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Unfortuntly yes. I'm back up and running. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!